30 Years' History Of "Foreign Trade Goods" And "Hangzhou Women'S Clothing"
There is a classic line in "the devil wears PRADA", because Andrea, who just went to work, used a "scorn" word for a few girdling - Miranda gave a speech, which was very sharp to point out the problem: don't think you have nothing to do with fashion. You can freely choose what you want. This huge industry has already made a choice for you before you choose.
Every aspect of fashion industry, from textile fabrics, design to marketing, is making choices for people. Clothing is not only a beautiful visual effect, but also an important medium to convey the spirit of an era. People who design clothes have more say in clothes. Hangzhou Polytechnic University (former silk Institute of Technology) is the cradle of training designers. In the area it can radiate, people's clothing and fashion ideas are all influenced by its output designers, and even it can cultivate what kind of designers they can decide what clothes you wear and how to express a kind of era. The clothing design department of the University of science and technology has been established for 24 years and has exported thousands of designers. They are changing and changing our wardrobes. This time we interviewed Hu Xun, deputy director of the Department of fashion design of Polytechnic University, and asked her to talk about how our clothing is changing from 30 years of reform and opening up to the designer and the whole industry.
80年代:時裝屬于小眾,大眾對于時尚的渴求如海綿
Designer's ecological key word: Zero cloth head, and make a single product design for the self-employed person.
時尚產(chǎn)業(yè)評估:非常不發(fā)達
In 1984, the Department of fashion design was established in the University of science and technology. The school sent some teachers to Japan and Hongkong to understand the most advanced fashion trend and learn the latest fashion design concept. This is the first time that fashion practitioners in Hangzhou have started learning systematically the international tide after opening the door. To integrate with the fashion front is the idea set up at the beginning of this department. At that time, the international stage was active in the 80s style, advocating a large straight line profile, a combination of geometric lines, wide shoulder pads, bat sleeves and high waist jeans are the most striking fashion elements. "When studying abroad teachers bring back the latest information, they think about how to pform the reality, so that these fashions are accepted by people in life. The keynote of practical creativity at the beginning of the college is fixed and affected." Professor Hu Xun emphasized this.
At that time, Hangzhou and even the whole country, the clothing industry was very underdeveloped. It was mainly based on low price processing, and the design demand was almost zero. The clothing that people could choose in life was very monotonous. Basically, it's autumn to buy a jacket and go to "little Lv Song". At that time, "little Lv Song" is already a fashionable and quality shopping place in the eyes of the public, but the sale is very monotonous. For high-end fashion goods, most of them stay on Goldlion necktie and so on. At that time, Longxiang bridge and national cargo road were the most fashionable areas in Hangzhou city. There were several stores called "imported boutiques" on the national cargo road, which were usually opened by people with overseas backgrounds. The items inside were especially expensive, basically seven hundred or eight hundred to 1000 yuan. People's impression was that "10000 yuan households could go to consumption". Most of the items sold were Taiwan and Hongkong editions. They were basically more expensive and dazzling. They all looked like ladies and rich ladies. And Longxiang bridge is famous for selling second-hand Western suits, and there are such shops in residential buildings. At the end of the 80s, jeans appeared, and people may just begin to think that they are more avant-garde and even a little bit of flair trousers. Some secondary schools are not allowed to wear jeans, but they can not stop people from being fond of this fashionable thing. Jeans once became the symbol of avant-garde fashion. The popular desire for fashion, such as sponge and something slightly fashionable, will produce sweeping popularity, which is blind but unparalleled.
Under such a social background, students of fashion design learn from their enthusiasm and faith in their lives. There is a sudden impulse to drive the future full of dreams. Before the establishment of the Department of fashion design of the Institute of technology, many of the people engaged in the clothing design industry and teaching were pferred by fine arts and craft design. They may be more focused on a purely creative rather than purposeful idea. "At the very beginning, the clothing design of Polytechnic University emphasized on clothing as a commodity, and creativity must be realistic and can be pformed into products accepted by the masses." So these quasi designers cherish and understand the opportunity to practice. They will volunteer to design clothing products for clothing factories and clothing owners. There will be a small number of enterprises and individuals tentatively to launch this kind of student design single product, although now look at these products are basically not exquisite, but it is the beginning of local clothing "zero design" breakthrough.
The students of fashion design department have little support for the design of the surrounding conditions. At that time, the fabrics on the market were quite simple. Only in the market of Yiwu and other places, could they buy the packaged foreign trade Zero cloth heads, and excavate the needed fabrics in all kinds of cloth heads to make a unique specimen that could not be copied. Another thing that the students of the Department of design at that time thought to be enjoying was to go to Shanghai Hua Ting Road to buy foreign trade garments. Although the foreign trade garments are too common now, they belonged to the absolute minority at that time, where only the talents in the industry circles knew the foothold, and only those who were engaged in art designing could spread out in a big way.
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