Chinese Fashion Designers Have Begun To Attract Much Attention Internationally.
Shortly after the Spring Festival in 2009, two fashion designers became the focus of attention of the whole industry. At the beginning of the year of the ox, they were active or passive because the star dress became "bull".
One of the cattle is Wu Jigang, a Chinese fashion designer from New York, Taiwan. Michel, the first black president Obama in the US history, has achieved the status of the young designer in the global fashion industry. After wearing the slanted white dress at the inaugural dance, the president's wife wore the silk dress of Wu Jigang designed on the March cover of American fashion.
Another popular concern is the Chinese fashion designer Guo Pei. Although the reason for the star dress is widely known, it is different from Wu Jigang's initiative, and she is forced to go to the public platform with the promotion of Internet communication.
At first, the accusation of "Tianya community" appeared in a short period of time, and there was a huge wave in a short time. There was a discussion about the ability, level or morality of Chinese fashion designers and the discussion about originality and plagiarism. Guo Pei's name was also widely known in a matter of days.
A friend from a particular industry called to say that Chinese fashion designers could finally attract the attention of ordinary people. They no longer played by themselves. This statement is not only extreme, but also objectively reveals the real situation of Chinese fashion designers in social life.
設(shè)計師,看起來很美
Since China's reform and opening up thirty years ago, fashion designers are still closely related to such words: art, creativity, culture, nationality, international, ideology, guidance, concept, elegance, temperament, etc. From this, it can be clearly demonstrated that the social professional group who is committed to packaging Chinese people with their own abilities is quite eager to play a positive role in promoting the development of contemporary social culture and to a certain extent, guiding the consumption trend of the masses.
So you can see that in front of the designer career, there are all kinds of colorful posts: creative director, design director, design director, chief designer... They are trying to change the image of the tailor in the past concept of the Chinese people. They want to show their cultural connotation, artistic accomplishment and aesthetic interest to the public, thus promoting the process of social development, enhancing their social status and manifests their social value.
但是,現(xiàn)實是怎樣的?
In the face of China's largest, most potential and most diverse market in the world, the positive efforts of fashion designers have not received the desired effect. Although the development of Chinese economy and the enhancement of national strength, Oriental culture has attracted more and more attention in the world fashion field. Although many designers have gone abroad to publish the fashion capital of Paris, Milan, New York and Tokyo, although some big brands in the country continue to carry out the so-called international exploration cooperation. However, we still see that in the international fashion field, there is still no clothing brand or fashion designer from China who can play a little leading role in the fashion trend of the world. The Chinese fashion power's right to speak in the international field is at least in the water and flower and moon.
In China, though cities are constantly claiming that they want to build fashion capital, there are so-called "masters" appearing, and there are various splendid fashion shows, and fashion designers have won various honors. However, based on such a large and diversified Chinese market, no fashion designer has been able to win the position of being the most popular designer in the public, and no fashion designer has enough influence on Chinese fashion. In the process of Chinese fashion designers struggling for their social status and value, they, like foreign fashion designers, are quite helpless and inevitably using the consumption of movie stars and celebrities to win public recognition of their value.
而和國外同行一樣是高端消費的上流人群不同,中國時裝設(shè)計師們并沒有謀得與其職業(yè)身份相匹配的社會地位,隱身于明星的背后做無名英雄成為大多數(shù)人的選擇,甚至?xí)驗橐恍┟餍堑木壒识o自己帶來不必要的困擾。一如這次郭培的知名度被迫提升,這是一種無奈,更是一種悲哀。
消費群體的認(rèn)知不公
In contemporary society, the value of many professions is reflected in the public's recognition. As a part of the social structure, fashion designers can not help but, more and more people are paying attention to fashion trend information and going to the scene to see the phenomenon of fashion distribution, which objectively improves the social value of designers, but the recognition of this occupation in consumer groups is not as imaginative as possible.
It is undeniable that with the entry of luxury goods into the Chinese market, in the domestic consumer groups, because of the traditional face problem of the Chinese people and the influence of the contemporary new money worship, a large number of people who wear "goods" and a lot of imitation products like "goods" have been created. "Of course I know it is not true, but I can not afford to buy it, so I have to choose these alternatives", which is the reason why too many people consume "goods".
In the so-called celebrities class, over the years, many movie stars have taken the initiative to take the fashion style of a brand to find the behavior of the designer studio, and even some people appear in some important social occasions wearing such clothing.
It is also hard to say that in the Guo Pei incident on the Internet, those who criticize the designer will certainly not consume the "goods". In my view, it may be quite the contrary. Quite a few people will wear designer clothes that are clearly marked, and participate in the discussion of the designer's work in front of the computer. This is a wonderful satire.
Many netizens who evaluate Guo Pei on the Internet may forget what their ancestors said, "do not impose on others what you do not want them to do," and, of course, include the stars and stars who become designers. If there is no demand for specific and obvious clothing products, designers will hardly be able to provide such services voluntarily. If there is no demand in the market economy environment, the theory is quite practical.
In the face of such a huge demand for consumption, it is impossible to ask those designers who struggle on the survival line to be totally different from the consumers' sounding moral choices.
原創(chuàng)和抄襲是個悖論
As far as the focus of netizens is concerned, it is plagiarized two characters that are added to Guo Pei and other designers. What is original and what is plagiarism, it seems necessary to reconsider it now.
If it is understood from the literal meaning, it is very difficult for human beings to have real originality. Each person's life growth process has the replication and plagiarism of predecessors' knowledge and wisdom. The difference between these two terms is that one focuses on expressing the individual characteristics of individuals, and the other is comprehensive replication.
In this sense, imitation and plagiarism are the inevitable experiences of originality. Originality is only self, but it does not have exclusive nature. The so-called originality needs three stages: imitation, practice and independence. As Guo Pei said in answer to the author's question, "originality and plagiarism are not defined by the surface."
At home and abroad, in the growing process of fashion designers, their works will more or less draw lessons from some excellent things, and this behavior is hard to define as plagiarism. It is precisely because a group can learn from something that it will become popular.
Similarly, in recent years, ZARA, a powerful brand in the global fashion brand, believes that there is no need to design innovative designs for clothing because almost every fashion company publishes countless new clothes every year. Its design principles may have a huge impact on domestic fashion designers and consumers: plagiarism, plagiarism and plagiarism, but they should be plagiarized.
ZARA hired professional designers to collect fashion information from Milan and Paris. It is not known how many of the ten thousand new products introduced each year are the crystallization of other brands, but what the facts of their lawyers' annual activities in the world are likely to be explained.
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