Technical Measures For Testing And Improving Properties Of Washable Leather
1 current situation of testing methods for washable leather in China
The research on washable leather in China has been carried out for nearly 20 years, and no national or industry related inspection standards have been published. For example, some of the twelve alkyl sulfates prescribed by the IUF-423 standard are used, some of them are [3] with silk wool washing liquid, others use 0.5% neutral soap or washing powder, others use 0.5% alkaline soap [5], and their washing equipment, bath ratio, bath temperature, time, frequency, drying method and operation steps are also very inconsistent. The above washing methods come from the researchers' understanding of the characteristics of natural protein fiber, product characteristics, performance requirements, the purpose of experimental research and test conditions. It is of some significance from the research point of view. In terms of the commercial properties and practicability of washable leather, the washing method deviates greatly from the ISO test standard adopted by ITS inspection group. This can easily lead to the nonstandardization of the inspection of the quality characteristics of washable leather products, which is likely to cause trouble for the export of washable leather.
2 ISO standard for inspection of washable leather
The authority of quality inspection and certification of washable leather is ITS, which has offices in Shanghai. It aims to recommend ISO standards to domestic researchers, manufacturers and distributors, so that the research, production and sales of washable leather will be in line with international standards.
The significance of inspection and certification of ITS inspection group lies in the unification of ISO standards to meet the needs of importing countries. Taking the inspection and certification of tensile strength (tensilestrength) as an example, there are:
ISO13934-1-1999 (International Standard) =ENISO13934-1-1999 (European standard) =BSENISO13934-1-1999 (British Standard) =DISENISO13934-1-1999 (German standard) =NFENISO13934-1-1999 (French Standard) =SSENISO13934-1-1999 (Swedish standard)
ITS inspection group's inspection on dimensional stability and color fastness to washing of washable leather is based on the corresponding standards of ISO textiles, ISO5077-1984ISO6330-1984 and ISO105Co6A2S-1994 respectively.
Washable leather dimensional stability (also known as area stability) inspection equipment for washing machine, detergent 0.08%ECE (ECE alkyl benzene sulfonate 20.50%, sodium phosphate three sodium 42.50%, soap 2.50%, sodium silicate 10%, sodium sulphate 11.50%), hydrogen peroxide 4mLL, sodium perborate 0.020%, other 13% and water, at (40 + 2) centigrade scrubbing 1 times, 30min, dried, hand-made ironing, determine the length and width of the sample, calculate the area shrinkage rate. Shrinkage rate of less than 5% is qualified.
ITS inspection group also uses ISO105Co6A2S-1994 standard for color fastness to wash washes. 10 steel balls, 0.4%ECE detergent and 0.1% sodium perborate solution were added to the drum washing machine. 30min was washed at 40 degrees and repeated 3 times. Stained fabric is cellulose acetate (acetate), cotton fiber (cotton), nylon (nylong), chemical fiber (polyester), acrylic fiber (actylic) and wool fiber (wool). Stained 4-5 grade, fade 3-4 grade is qualified.
3 technical measures to improve dimensional stability and color fastness of washable leather
The dimensional stability of washed leather is closely related to the dispersion of protein fibers, tanning agents and tanning methods, fatliquoring agents and fatliquoring methods and process parameters. It is difficult to ensure the dimensional stability of washable leather by emphasizing the softness and making strong handling in the preparation section, using strong waterproof polymer tanning agent and fatliquoring agent. Chemical treatment is the main way to improve dimensional stability of washable leather. Macromolecule network cross-linking technology must run through the whole process. For example, chrome aldehyde combination tannage, proper waterproofing fatliquoring agent combined with fatliquoring, fat adding, multi process tanning, dyeing with oil, using a variety of cationic finishing auxiliaries, and making leather moderately soft and not flat are all important technologies to improve dimensional stability of washable leather. The statistical results of repeated contrast tests showed that the leather yield of each pig leather with only soft and non rigid sheets was only reduced by 0.7 + 0.1 inches. From the selling price, the price of washable leather is 2 yuan higher than that of ordinary leather, and the economic benefit is 1.5-2.0. The color fastness of washed leather depends on the molecular structure of the dye and the way in which the dye combines with the protein fiber. It is also influenced by the fastness and the technological conditions of the fatliquoring agent. It must be pointed out that no kind of dye or dye of any company or manufacturer can completely meet the requirement of color fastness of washing leather, all kinds of dyes should be screened comprehensively and the suitable dye will be determined finally. The binding fastness of fatliquoring agents is an important factor affecting the fastness of dyes. The migration and saponification of oils during washing process are easy to cause coloring. Therefore, the fatliquoring agents must be combined. Strengthening dyeing and finishing is a technical measure that can not be ignored in improving color fastness. Cationic leather chemicals or cationic textile chemicals have certain effect. Only after washing with cationic chemicals, can their color fastness withstand the requirements of saponification and oxidation washing in the ISO standard.
Technical measures for testing and improving properties of washable leather
4 production technology of washable pig suede garment leather (after wet blue)
(1) wet blue water, skin, soft, grind, trim and weigh.
(2) water washed and degreased H2O:400%, 38 degrease HCOOH:0.2%, 20min degreasing agent: 0.3%-0.5%, 90min, drainage.
H2O:400%, 38 centigrade, 15min * 2, water control.
(3) retanning, refueling and fixing
H2O:300%, 38 degrees centigrade
Modified glutaraldehyde: 2%, 20min
NaHCO3:2.5%, 10min * 4+90min, pH6.4, drain.
H2O:300%, 60 degrees, 10min, water control.
H2O:300%, 55 C
Fatliquoring agent: 17%, 90min
HCOOH:2.5%, 10min * 3+30min, pH3.6, drain.
At room temperature, the ratio of water to liquid is 15min.
H2O:300%, 38 C
Chrome powder: 3%, 90min, stop drums for the night, turn to 30min at the next morning.
(4) neutralization
H2O:300%, 32 c
NH4HCO3:3%, 90min, pH6.5, drain 60 degrees of water, large liquid than 30min, drain liquid.
(5) staining
H2O:400%, 55 C
Levelling agent: 0.5%, 30min
Complexing dyes: x%, 90min
HCOOH:2.5%, 10min * 3+30min, pH3.6, drainage at room temperature, large liquid ratio, washed 30min, water control.
(6) soaping
H2O:300%, 50 C
Wash clean: 1%, 30min, drain liquid at room temperature, large liquid ratio smoldering 15min * 3, water control.
(7) fixation
H2O:300%, 40 C
Organosilicon finishing agent: y%, 60min, drain liquid, drum after finishing process.
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