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Shoe Last Design Principle

2008/8/9 10:15:00 41837

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腳長與楦長

The foot length is the basis for making shoe numbers, and is also the basis for designing the last length of shoe last. However, no matter which structure, style shoe last, and its bottom length must be larger than the foot length.

This is because:

The length of the foot is usually affected by the climate and the intensity of labor.

The change of foot length caused by climate change is generally 3-5mm. When people are doing heavy physical labor or walking for a long time, they will also increase their feet.

2. When people walk, the feet must have a certain margin of activity in the shoes. It is called the "allowance". The average age of men's shoe last is 20mm, and that of women's shoes is 16.5m.

At the same time, the change of allowance is changed with the change of the shape of the last shape.

Generally, the smaller the head shape is, the larger the allowance is; the larger the head shape is, the smaller the allowance will be.

(3) the heel of the shoe last should be properly convex (posterior tolerance) to fit the radian of the heel, so that the leather shoes are more suitable. The rear tolerance of the leather shoe last is about 2% of the girth. The rear tolerance of the male head is 5mm, and the rear tolerance of the female head is 4.5mm.

Therefore, the relationship between the length of the last bottom and the length of the foot is the last bottom length = foot length + allowance - tolerance.

For example, making a male leather shoe last with a 250mm length of 250 feet, then its last bottom length is: + 20-5 = 265mm

Foot girth and last girth

Girth is the basis of weight and weight. The weight of shoe last is determined by the girth of the foot.

To determine the weight and weight of shoe last is mainly based on the two parts of the foot's metatarsal and tarsal circumference.

(1) plantar circumference

The foot plantar circumference is the key part of bending when walking. If the last metatarsal size is improper, it will not only wear uncomfortable, but also bring early damage to the metatarsal part of the shoe, which will affect human health.

The determination of the last metatarsal circumference is related not only to the plantar circumference, but also to the shoe.

Such as:

(1) vegetarian head, three quarter first shoe's last metatarsal circumference should be smaller than 3.5mm of the foot's metatarsal circumference, so that the metatarsal part of the shoe will be stuck to the plantar joint, so that the toes will not be hurt before reaching the top.

(2) the shoes with a lack of control, such as shallow mouth, tongue type, and so on, should be 7mm smaller than the sole of the foot.

3. Boots, high waistlines and back bands can be controlled with shoes. The last metatarsal circumference can be equal to the foot metatarsus or slightly larger than the foot plantar circumference, especially the high waist cotton shoes need to add 3.5mm.

(4) children are in the developmental stage. In order to make their feet grow normally, the last metatarsal circumference should be larger than the plantar circumference.

(2) tarsal circumference

The circumference of the tarsal girth is generally 1mm larger than that of the plantar circumference.

However, it can not be used to make the last 2-6mm..

At the same time, attention should be paid to picking up the back of the waist. The same length of the tarsal girth can create different degrees of tarsal circumference, and directly affect the shape of the last shape. Therefore, we must correctly consider the stilling of the tarsal circumference besides grasping the size of the tarsal girth.

腳的寬度與楦的寬度

Width refers to the width of each part of the shoe last.

The width of the last bottom is based on the width of the foot.

The width of the foot is two, the width is wide and the footprint is wide.

In fact, these two widths can not make a real bottom width.

In general, the width of the last bottom sample needs to be zoomed apart from the front and rear ends (allowance and tolerance). The rest points must take the 1/2 between the outline width and the footprint width as the last bottom width.

The stilts of shoe last

The stilts of the last body refer to the front stilts and the rear stilts of the last body.

The front stilt height and the rear stilt height of the last one are in harmony.

When the height of the last step is fixed, the distance from the front point to the horizontal level of the shoe last is called the front stilt height of the last. When the rear stilts of the last step rise, the front stilts of the last one will decrease. When the back of the last step is lowered, the front stilts will rise, but this is not a simple leverage.

From the general law, the last step of the female last step increased by 10mm, and the front stilts decreased by about 1mm. The last step of men's shoe last increased by 5mm and the front stilts decreased by about 1mm.

Base line of shoe last insole

The base line of the shoe last is mainly: the heel is 18% of the feet, the waist point is 41%, the fifth toe is 63.5%, the first metatarsophalangeal point is 72.5% of the foot length, the small toe outlying point accounts for 78% of the foot length, and the toe of the toe is 90% of the foot length.

確定楦面中心線和后弧叫心線

First, use the visual measurement to find the middle point of the crown of the head, the middle point of the tube, and find the midpoint at the most concave part of the last back.

Press the middle point of the head and the middle point of the cylinder to the table. The pencil is lying on the table. The pen point draws a straight line to the middle point of the center of the thick convex, the middle point of the concave part of the last back and the middle point of the cylinder, and is called the center line of the last face.

Find a midpoint on the arc line behind the cylinder mouth, find the midpoint at the junction between the back arc edge and the bottom edge, then locate the midpoint at the back arc point, connect the three points to the center line of the rear arc.

The determination of the center line of the last face and the center line of the rear arc is the key to the correctness of the shoe sample. It is also the basis for determining the parts of the parts. If there are no two central lines, there is no criterion for the quality of the shoes.

How to determine the height of the back of a shoe?

The full seam of the shoes is high, which usually takes up 1/4 (25%) of the foot length, but when the design is positioned, 23% of the foot length is taken up.

Because the shoes already contain the thickness of the inner bottom, half inner bottom, side surface, main heel, and other materials, so the shoes and positioning should be two.

The back of the tongue type shoe is 25.5%-26% with a foot length, and the design position takes up 23%-24% of the foot.

Because the front type of the tongue is long and short, the height of the posterior seam should be different, but the tongue shoe has no shoelace adjustment control, so the post seam height must be slightly higher than that of the full shoe.

The rear seam height of the shallow shoe occupies 26% of the foot length, and the design positioning takes up 24% of the foot length.

The upper part of the back band is covered with sponge, such as casual shoes and tourist shoes. The height of the seam is not affected by the above proportion, and it can be appropriately raised.

From the above data, the shorter the front group is, the higher the height of the gang will be.

The height of the seam should not be measured according to the length of the last bottom.

Because the allowance of shoe last is large, such as the value of the last sample, it will make the same shoe 25 shoes with different seam height.

This is obviously reasonable.

確定前幫總長度和口門位置

The length of the front group, such as Baotou, the central bank, the front and the front door, must be determined according to the percentage of the last floor length.

Taking account of the active parts of each joint of the foot type, the length of the front support can not exceed 66% of the last bottom length. If the value exceeds this value, the foot bending will be subjected to collision when walking.

The mouth door length generally refers to the opening position of the shoe, for example, the tongue type shoe door is fixed under the stripe, the interface between the front and the shoe tongue, and the tie strap is positioned in the position where the shoe ears are connected with the front part, and the mouth door positioning takes up 38%-44% of the long last sample (for example, if the mouth of the female shallow shoe is fixed at 26%-30%).

The length of the door should be taken into account if the shoe is worn out and the last one is convenient. If the door is too long, it will press the instep, and at the same time, it will be too shallow for the last one.

Determine the width of the door of a shoe.

The width of the shoe door is based on the percentage of the length of the last metatarsal length. It is the vertical line of the center line of the last face at the mouth gate length, and the data on the vertical line is the width of the mouth door.

The width of the mouth of the ear shoe occupies 16%-18% of the last metatarsal circumference, and the inner ear type occupies 16% of the girth girth, and the distance between the outer and outer sides of the outer ear type is 32% of the metatarsal circumference.

The length of the tongue is generally 24.5%, and the width of the tongue is 19% of the plantar circumference.

確定后中幫高度位置（外踝高度）

The medial malleolus is high, which is the lower edge of the ankle. This position is the main positioning data of the single shoe.

Because the height of the ankle bone is about 22% of the foot length, the height of the shoe should not exceed 20% of the foot length.

When designing positioning, it usually accounts for 18% of the foot length, while at the same time, the outer side is lower than the inside. This is because the lateral ankle is less than the medial ankle bone, and the difference can be 2-3cm on the template.

The material for last sticking is adhesive tape, pparent paper and kraft paper.

Weigh the pros and cons. The use of kraft paper is more common. The straight direction of the paper fiber is straight forward to the shoe last. The length is slightly longer than that of the shoe last, and the width is slightly higher than the center line width of the last.

You can knead the paper and do not need to rub it, otherwise it will be able to last, but it is difficult to uncover and easy to distort.

After rubbing, the paper is flattened, and the paper and the last surface are respectively rubbed and dried.

1. all last stick paper method

When the surface is asymmetrical, it must be attached to the whole last.

First, cut the 2/3 according to the center line of the sticker, then place the center line of the sticker on the front line of the shoe last, and paste it on the last surface.

Two to three tiny scissors are placed in the concave part of the last, so that the last surface is smooth.

2. half last sticker method

For the inside and outside of the upper and outside, the pattern is symmetrical.

The method is to cut out a paper slightly longer than the shoe last, tie it on the outside side of the shoe last, and cut three cuts on the concave part of the last, then take a small piece of sticker to fill the three gaps.

3. full and empty waist stickers.

It is used for sticking sandals on the surface of sandals. Generally, two pieces of paper are cut out according to the length of the front and the rear wing, and the size of the surface is slightly higher than that of the others.