How To Make The Garment Plate Meet The Special Body Shape?

Garment plate making is usually handled for normal clothing pattern. But when we encounter special body shape, how should we deal with it? Here are 5 common features:

(1) convex buttock

1, shape features buttocks plump bulge, waist center axis tilt, wear the normal shape of trousers, will buttocks tighten, the rear gear wide card tight.

2, the adjustment on the drawing can cut back the base map of the trousers and adjust it on the normal body trousers.

The specific data of the regulation depend on the circumstances.

Cut and enlarge the buttocks around the breech line, then adjust the following parts to meet the wearing requirements of the convex buttock.

It can also be handled directly by real proportional means.

(1) enlargement of the posterior hip circumference is usually greater than 0.26H.

Accordingly, the front hips should be reduced to less than 0.24&nbspH.

(the ratio of 0.27+0.23 can be used) (2) the slope of the seam increases, usually more than 15:3.5.

(if you can take 15:4)

(3) rear elevation (due to the increase in the slope of the back seam, this elevation will naturally occur).

(4) the width of the rear gear is slightly larger than that of 0.12H.

(5) a moderate increase in the latter province.

(two) flat buttock

1. Shape characteristics

The hip is flat, wearing a normal figure of trousers, there is too long after the seam and fall.

2. Adjustment in Cartography

By adjusting the base map of the underpants and adjusting them on the normal trousers, the specific data of the adjustment will depend on the circumstances.

After folding the back line of the trousers, the following parts are adjusted to meet the wearing requirements of the buttocks.

(1) the posterior hip circumference is small, generally less than 0.26H.

(2) the slope of the back seam is reduced, less than 15:3.5; the arc of the back seam is shortened.

(3) rear warping is low (natural drawing).

(4) the width of the rear gear is narrower (less than 0.12H).

(5) reduce the amount of post production.

(three) convex belly

1, the body characteristics of the abdomen prominent, buttocks are not significantly prominent, the waist of the center axial backward, wear the normal type of trousers, will make the abdomen tighten, waist line fall, side seam bag tight.

2. The adjustment on the drawing is adjusted by cutting off the base map of the trousers and adjusting on the normal type trousers. The specific data of the adjustment depend on the situation.

Through the front buttocks, the buttocks and the buttocks should be cut, and the underside threads of the trousers should be folded. The following parts should be adjusted to meet the requirements of the convex belly.

(1) lengthen the front seams and shorten the shorts after the shorts.

(2) the ratio of rear hip hips significantly decreased, generally less than 0.26H, and the proportion of the front hip hips increased by more than 0.24H.

The proportion of the front and rear hips can be 0.25.

(3) the proportion of the front waist circumference increased greatly, generally larger than 0.25H, and the proportion of waist circumference reduced significantly less than 0.25H.

The ratio of waist circumference is 0.26H+0.24H.

(4) the width ratio of the front gear is slightly increased or the 0.04H remains unchanged.

The ratio of the rear door is reduced, less than 0.12H.

(5) reduce the upper slope angle, less than 15:3.5.

(6) properly increase the amount of front piece.

(four) O leg.

1. Body shape characteristics

Type O leg or ring leg, it is characterized by the lower hip curve to the heel, showing two knees bending outward, the feet being inward, the inner side of the lower gear being oval, and wearing the normal type trousers. It will form a side seam that is short and the side seam will be raised upward, and the lower seam will be longer and wrinkled, and the phenomenon of hot line to lateral deviation will form.

2. Adjustment in Cartography

The principle is to cut through the pants base map and adjust it on the normal shape of the pants. The specific data of the adjustment depends on the situation.

The front and rear trousers are cut through the middle side of the side seam and moved downward to the side of the foot line.

The following parts should be adjusted to meet the wearing requirements of O type legs.

(1) the lateral sutures should be lengthened and moved inward.

(2) the bottom seam should be shortened and moved inward.

(3) the hot line of trousers is naturally inclined to the lower gear direction.

(five) X leg.

1. Outline and body shape X type legs or Eight Legged legs.

It is characterized by the lower hip arcs to two knees, inward and neat. The feet are parallel to the outside, and the knees below the heel are out of figure eight. The trousers with normal shape will lift the bottom joints up for short, and the side stitches will wrinkle as they grow longer, and the hot line will be inclined to the inside.

2. The adjustment on the drawing is adjusted by cutting off the base map of the trousers and adjusting on the normal type trousers. The specific data of the adjustment depend on the situation.

The front and rear trousers are cut at the middle of the lower seam and moved to the side line of the side seam to adjust the following parts so as to meet the wearing requirements of the X type legs.

(1) the lower suture is properly extended and shifted outward.

(2) the side seam should be shortened and shifted outward.

(3) the hot line of the trousers is naturally inclined to the direction of the side seam.