New York Fashion Week Appeals: Pay Attention To The Growth Of Men'S Wear
其實近年來,每年2月、9月專為女裝而生的紐約時裝周也讓男裝分得一杯羹。
But the problem is that the men's wear series released in New York fashion week in February coincided with the January men's week in Europe, but September's release was three months later than the men's wear show in Milan and Paris.
The main complaint of designers is that the timing of September is very bad for business operation.
New York Menswear
"I have joined the CFDA for ten years, and we have been trying to do that for ten years," said John Varvatos, who is planning the New York men's wear week designer. "If we plan to try, there will be a better performance than before, because we have a bigger design platform."
American designers prefer to play in Europe.
"I like to release in New York. Of course, most of my previous shows were there," Varvatos said. Before the three season in Milan, Varvatos created the largest men's wear record in New York. "The reality is that the men's wear market has been opened in Milan men's wear week June 20th, and New York's release will not be presented to the public until September."
In this way, American designers who base their production base in Europe need not have a single spring summer series. (June Milan men's wear week is the spring and summer series to be released next year). European factories have no time to take care of the late arrival of the other side of the ocean.
There may be more flexibility for the same brand of clothing that is produced in developing countries.
If there is a choice, I am afraid that all the fairies will be inclined to make the new model that will soon be released before letting the buyer enter his showroom.
So how do you get the best return after a fashion show?
You have invested a lot of time and money, but as an international brand, you have made very few returns in the US.
The reason why I like to publish in New York is that this is our base, which is not very complicated, but it does not mean that this is a wise and reasonable thing.
Varvatos spoke out.
Therefore, despite the recent worldwide applause for the design from New York, American designers are still trying to get a fashion show in Europe.
A recent example is the designer ThomBrowne, Browne, who has dabbled at the PittiUomo men's Wear Exhibition of doffer, and the Moncler GammeBleu, who is the creative director, is stationed in Milan men's wear week. Browne recently expressed her desire to release the main line in Paris.
"I'm proud of being an American designer," Browne said. "But we have to sell it in a real men's wear season.
From a product point of view, sales in the early June and early July are extremely important, which means that the next series can be completed in two months, which is not easy.
We can even start early, because we have to get everything ready. "
He believes that the advantage of making a show in Europe is not only in time but also in attracting more international audiences than New York.
Tim Hamilton, a designer who has participated in the two Paris men's wear week and will continue to participate, holds the same view: "it is obvious that it is difficult to get international attention in New York, especially men's clothing."
However, he still retains some "tracks" on the New York fashion week, such as the party and his sub line, Redux's static show.
"I respect New York fashion week's principle of" encouraging new designers ", and I was once one of them.
But this is very organized. Why not make more choices on the agenda?
Everyone is complaining about the crowded schedule. There are too many shows.
If I take another time for men's wear, I will consider coming back. "
Hamilton's attitude is clear.
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