Design Of Outer Ear Shoes -- Variant Design
There are many variants of outer ear shoes. The following representative samples are selected to design the rules.
(1) design of outer ear type three quarter head men's shoes
The outer ear type three head shoes also belong to the variant products of the three quarter shoes, which change the structure of three head shoes.
1. finished product drawing
The outer ear type three head shoes are also divided into three parts, namely, the former Baotou, the former middle gang and the rear Gang, as shown in figure 1-4-16.
The proportion of the former Baotou is still 2/3 of the former Gang, but the midline of the middle band has been lengthened and extended to the broken tongue position.
The two sides of the gang are also controlled near the F1 point.
The length of the back gang has basically not changed, but it has changed the inlay relation with the Chinese gang. The position of the shoe eye and the fake line should be arranged in accordance with the contour of the shoe ears.
The design of the outer ear type three piece men's shoes still adopts men's three quarter last type.
The design of the outer ear type three section head does not need to find the width of the Fo point control gate, because the front point position of the shoe ear is high, but the contour lines of the two wings are gliding lines, and it is not necessary to add and fold the hem. In general, the template can be drawn, and you can not find Fo points.
2. structure design drawing
The design also starts with the later gang.
(1) the length of the design shoe ears of the back group is controlled in the VE length range, taking 5 eye positions.
For vertical line, locate P 'point and control the curved arc of the shoe.
Find the Fi point and control the front contour.
The shape of the rear part is designed under the auxiliary line F1 to O to V to E to P'to Q to B.
After the completion of the design, we use the difference between 01 points and 02 points to design the outline of the shoe shoe, and mark the location of the lock line, as shown in figure 1-4-17.
Attention should be paid to the contour of the shoe upper ear if the line is designed to be tilted downward, the shoe eye position line should also be tilted downward, and the eye position margin control 13mm will remain unchanged.
Fake lines imitate the eye line trend and turn ahead in advance to imitate the change of the front end of the shoe ears.
Note that the distance between the front and the fore points is equal to the length of the false line, that is to say, the false line should be divided into two parts.
Generally speaking, when the difference between the shoes and ears is large, or when designing high-end shoes, the fake line should have the difference between the inside and outside.
See the dotted line in figure 1-4-17.
(2) the design of the former Baotou takes half the length of the AV'2/3, the length of the former Baotou, and the length of the former Baotou.
Profile.
The design method is the same as the inner ear type three toe shoes of the former Baotou.
(3) the front part of the front Gang is restricted by the two parts before and after the design, and can only be designed at last.
First, follow the outer contour to make the 8rnm parallel line as the stubble line. After the parallel line is intersected with the shoe ears, the 20mm will be returned to the 0'point.
Although there are differences between the 01 points and the 02 points, but the amount of stubble should not be differentiated, then go through the 0'point to make the vertical line of the back midline and turn it to the location of the dark door. V "move 5 to 7mm after setting the V1 point, and design the position of the broken tongue.
The length of the tongue is over 6 E to 7mm, and the width of the tongue is controlled by the 1Omm position from the last eye position.
Connect the auxiliary line to the 0'point.
The outline of shoe tongue is designed, and the front contour line of the tongue is trimmed with arc, as shown in figure 1-4-18.
(4) the method of getting the stilts is not the same as the positioning, but still need to find an equal quantity instead of VO'V'.
The size of the control positioning and taking off angle is equal to the equivalent substitution angle, that is, V1O'V2= VO'V'.
First connect the back line from the Baotou to the V point, then cross the V2 point to make the vertical line to control the shape of the door, and repair the V20'arc similar to the v1O' arc.
After taking off the corner, the width of the door is turned into an arc.
The insurance cover takes the shape of a curve.
The amount of tension between the bottom and the outside is different from that of the inside and outside.
Other methods of making scribing boards, making basic templates, opening models and inner templates are the same.
Pay attention to the position of the fork opening in the back.
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(two) design of four eye male shoes with external ears.
Men's shoes design 4 eyes, you can move the E point forward lOmm, so that the shoe lengthened, there is relaxation, leisure feel, also can move V point, so that the shoe's predecessor lengthened, looks slender handsome.
1. finished product drawing
As shown in figure 1-4-19
The upper is very simple. A long piece of shoes is matched by two parts.
The shoe ears in the picture are free and are very special with the front ones.
The locking line of the shoe ears and the lower end line are the shoe ears pressing the upper, while the rear arc is replaced by the upper shoe.
If the shoe ears are simply pressed on the upper, it will feel dull and tasteless. But through the change of flip fit, the highlight of the shoe ears will be highlighted immediately. The way of processing is also an important factor in the variation. The application of flip splicing process should pay attention to the change of the processing volume.
2. structure design drawing
The outer ear type four eyes men's shoes are shown in figure 1-4-20.
(1) the design of the upper is V point shift lOmm, VO parallel line control shoe ear length, shoe ears upper line slightly downward.
Then we found the eye line of 13mm, set 4 eyes, and put out the position of 12mm's fake line, and designed the outline of the shoe ears.
The lower end of the shoe is controlled near the OQ line, and the width of the lower end of the shoe is compared with the golden ratio, and the difference between the inside and outside arms, including the length of the lower end of the shoe ear, is made.
Confirm the O point.
O'point distance from the front end of the shoe ears is not less than 15mm, keep the 8mm stubble from the lower end of the shoe ears.
Next, determine the position of the broken tongue, design the outline of the shoe tongue, then position and take the corner, connect the front midline, and the same method.
The position of the heel after cutting out the back.
Design the bottom line and make the difference between the inside and outside.
(2) it is not difficult to make the template and make the basic template. There are some details to be considered in the manufacture of the material and the template.
As shown in figure 1-4-21
The solid line in the picture is the basic template, and the dotted line is the amount of processing needed to add.
The shoe is made of three sections of shoe lining. The dividing line between the front and the back passes through the position of 0'point, and the cutting edge in the back is more than 0' point 3mm.
The front Gang is equipped with a shoe tongue, and there are stilts between them. See figure 1-4-22.
Note: first, insert the tongue, put the front shoe in the front, then put the two shoe ears in the back, the line to the lock line, then turn the shoe into the shoe ears, the shoe ears connect the line, the car lock line.
Finally, the car shoe line.
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(three) design of outer ear buckle shoes
The outer ear type shoes usually connect the two shoe ears in the form of bandages, and can also be connected with shoes, zippers, Velcro and other forms.
There are more men's and women's shoes with Velcro, and the width of shoelaces can not be restricted by shoes.
Here is the design of a hasp women's shoes.
1. finished product drawing
As shown in figure 1-4-23
The Velcro is arranged on the shoelace, and the shoelace is the extension of the shoe's ear. If the shoelace is removed, it is a common outer ear type shoe.
Therefore, the key to designing this kind of shoes is to design the location, width and length of shoelaces on the basis of general outer ear shoes.
The shoe ears of this shoe have about 3 eyes long, and the width of the shoelaces should be in harmony with the ear length.
In the early design of the belt shoe, the width of the shoelace must be smaller than the width of the drill hole due to the influence of the width of the shoe's drill hole. 2mm
With the use of Velcro, the width of the shoelace is relatively free, and the requirement is harmonious and harmonious.
The steps of the design are like the design of outer ear shoes.
(1) first design the rear part of the outer side, then make the difference between the 01 point and the 02 point.
(2) draw an arc in the middle of the outer shoe ear to indicate the direction of the shoelace.
(3) a parallel line at 3mm above the VE line to indicate the position of the loop of the shoelace.
(4) shoelace length design shoelace length usually includes 13mm shoe eye position, 12mm's false line position, 14mm's shoe shoe drill position and shoelace bottom foot 30mm.
In designing nylon lace shoelaces, you can use this length to change the length of the shoelace below 14mm to the length of the buckle.
20 ~ 30mm.
(5) the width of shoelace should be controlled by the width of the 14mm fastener, and the width of the lower foot should be coordinated with the size of the buckle.
The width of the middle line of the shoelace is the result of extending the ear of the shoe into the top, then turning it down and connecting it to the width of the nail clasp.
You can observe and trim the shoelace by the way of shoelace, so that the line of shoelace is smooth, see picture 1-4-24.
As shown in the picture, the shoes of Li Huai are turned into shoelaces, and they are twisted to the outer arms and glued together to form the role of shoelace.
The break line is hidden under the shoelace.
The rest of the components are exactly the same as those designed for outer ear shoes.
The method of making scribing boards and making templates is invariable.
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(four) design of long outer ear type men's shoes
When introducing the design features of the outer ear shoes, the phenomenon of voids caused by the displacement of the outer ear is mentioned.
The reason for this phenomenon is not the design method or the method of taking the plate, but the position of the front midline.
When you take a ruler, you can see that when the ruler is in the back line, you will find that the gap between the ruler and the midline is different from that of the V point, the V point and the V point in the back line. When the front line is longer, the gap between the ruler and the last surface will be larger.
In general, the front and back midline of the outer ear shoe is always hidden above the shoe ears under the shoes, so the length will often exceed V points, so the gap will increase and the chance of deformation will increase.
The design of the three quarter outer ear shoes is divided into two segments because of the back midline of the front part, which is very close to the last surface, and the deformation will weaken.
If you design long outer ear shoes, the lengthening of the back shoes will shorten the front, and the chance of deformation will be greatly reduced. See the example of the design of the long ear shoes below.
1. finished product drawing
As shown in figure 1-4-25
This is a sport style leisure ear shoes.
The shoe ears grow more than the metatarsophalangeal joints and reach the 2/3 near the bottom AH line.
In the book "foot type, last type and bottom part", the two bending positions of the sole have been analyzed. The shoe ears are taken to this position to avoid the bending part of the foot movement.
Moving the H point forward along the back midline, 19.5% of the foot length is the end point of the little toe. If you take 18%, you will avoid the bending point of the little toe. This position is near the 2/3 of the AH line at the bottom.
There are 8 eyes on the long shoe ears.
In order to save material, the shoe eye bar is disconnected; the position of the broken tongue is taken at Vo point; when marking the lock line rule, it does not need to rotate again; it can directly label the location of the connection; the foam on the shoe is wrapped in foam, so that it becomes comfortable and soft, and the back point of the shoe can raise the height of the 5mm; the front shoe of the shoe is shortened, and the degree of the template sticking is increased.
Long ear type outer ear shoes are actually a kind of "shallow door type" full shoes, which have evolved into sports shoes now.
2. structure design drawing
According to the design method of outer ear shoes, the specific steps are as follows:
(1) the design of the latter Gang is designed first and then helps.
Locate the location of the AH line 2/3 at the bottom port, set the H'point, and design the shoe eye parts in the EH' scope, only need to make the difference between the inside and outside of the bottom port. In the bottom of the day, 3mm is forward, and the outline line of the shoe eye line will be linked up, see figure 1-4-26.
Find the P'point, raise the q-point 5mm fixed Q' point, design arc shoe in the E, P'and Q' range, and make the difference between the inside and outside.
It is not necessary to receive 2mm after the design, because the foam needs a certain thickness.
The width of the foam is 10 to 12mm, and it is also the location of the cotton foam.
The back area is large and can be decorated differently.
The location of the lock line is about 15mm below the first eye position, and there is no need to distinguish the position between the inside and outside.
(2) the design of the front Gang is connected to the V point and the point is the AoVo of the back midline, and the arc shoe line is passed through the Vo point. After joining the second eye positions, the 15mm points O'along the upper side of the shoe eye bar.
When positioning, take the angle of the corner.
Taking the O'point as the center of the circle, the VoO length as the radius makes a large arc, so that the positioning and taking off angle is equal to the replacement angle: VoO'Vo'= VoO'Vo'=.
Connect the VoE line to the back of the tongue.
And extend 6 to 7mm, design the outline of tongue and tongue, to O'point.
(3) the difference between the tension of the bottom and the inside and outside of the bottom is determined by the treatment of the bottom port.
(4) prepare the template, first prepare the scribing board, then make the basic template, the opening material template and the shoe template separately.
As shown in figure 1-4-27
The solid line is the basic template, and the amount of processing added by the dotted line is the sample.
Due to the use of the sewing process when the foam is wrapped, the stitch of the shoe is increased by 3 to 4mm.
There is no big change in the front shoe. There is a scissors opening between the amount of the seam and the amount of flush, as shown in figure 1-4-28.
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(five) design of outer ear two eye women's shoes
It is difficult to hide the broken tongue line when the outer ear parts are relatively small, or the shoe ear parts position is lowered. At this time, a continuous tongue structure can be used to design.
1. finished product drawing
As shown in Fig. 1-4-29, the tongue and the front shoe are connected into a whole.
In this way, positioning and taking off can not solve the problem of structural contour. A shoe last should be chosen. The shape of the shoe ears is mainly made of pointed circles, and the position of the shoe ears is relatively close, so that the shoes are lengthened and appear light.
2. structure design drawing
Women's shoes are suitable for the design of 4 eye positions in the range of vE, and two eyes are designed to move two eye positions forward.
The method of dealing with the external ear and taking the whole tongue is called "the method of lowering the tongue after the tongue," which is a kind of distortion of the switch, but the operation is relatively simple, as shown in figure 1-4-30.
First design the front contour, find the width of the door O'point, make the vertical line of the VE line and get the V point of the mouth door.
In order to control the width of the shoe, we must use the 0'point as the center and 0'V as the radius.
Then the tangent line of the arc is started from the J point, extending the tangent line is the front midline.
Then the 0'point is used as the center of the circle, and the radius of the 0'E' is used as the radius. The intersection point is the Eo point, which means the position of the tongue is long, and the outline of the original shoe tongue is copied.
The angle formed between the two shoe tongue lines is the conversion of the angle.
As the back midline grows longer after the conversion, it needs to be corrected.
The length of the AoEo line is the length converted by the midline. The actual length needs to be truncated from the back. From the E point, the length of the VE'after the interception is taken, and then the AoV' length of the front edge is intercepted. The A'o point can be found, and the A'oE'length is the actual length of the midline.
The length of AoA'o is the length difference of the midline. The length difference is divided into 3 equal parts, and 1 of the lengths are added to the bottom of the front support, so that the front contour of the structural chart can be obtained.
This kind of take off method is suitable for the external ear type shoes with continuous tongue.
The structural design is shown in figure 1-4-31
The first step is to design the outer parts of the outer part, then design the components from inside and outside.
The second step is to design the contour of the front part of the tongue, which needs further processing because it can not take the template.
The third step is to find the position of the front midline of the front part by using the method of lowering the tongue after the shoe tongue, and determine the length of the tongue, and design the front contour.
The fourth step: trim the bottom, take the length difference of 1/3 to fill the bottom of the front support, and then draw the bottom tension to make the difference between inside and outside.
Follow up preparation of the scribing board, basic template, material and shoe model are all the same, see figure 1-4-32.
Note: when marking the rules of the back line, the part after the 0'point is carried out according to the normal rules, marking the rules of the lock line, the O' point is used as the center of rotation to restore the tongue to E', and then mark the lock line, 01 points and 02 points.
There is no big change in the shoe model, as shown in figure 1-4-33.
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