Design Of Gallbladder Shoes -- Design Features
Open the shoes also called Baotou shoes, refers to the front cover of the shoe front line, from the Baotou position to open directly to the bottom of a class of shoes.
In the Guangdong area, the shoe covers are called shoes and gallbladder, and the shoes are turned from the closed state to the open state, so they are called "gallbladder shoes".
The name of the opening shoes is loud, so this article is called "open gallbladder shoes".
Open gallbladder shoes have been popular in 1970s, and many of them are fat and unattractive.
If the front part is designed to be a gallbladder structure, the front cover line can make the shoe type thin, so it is very popular.
The shape of the last one has been pformed from a round head to a small round head, then a sharp round head, a sharp tip, a small square head and a large square head. As the width of the square head increases, it needs to be modified to make it thinner, so the gallbladder shoe has entered a new fashion cycle.
The change of the upper is directly influenced by the shape of the shoe last. Why is it so complicated to design the shoe?
The reason is also here.
Opening the gallbladder shoes is also a variant of the cover shoe. When the cover line extends from the back to the front, if it turns to the other side of the upper, it will form a shoe around the cover. If it extends straight to the bottom, it will form a gallbladder shoe.
The front part of the gall bladder is made up of a long shoe gall and two half girth strips. This is also a variation of the color of the front structure, which can be matched with different back sides.
First appreciate the color J series.
The color picture J-l is a front opening type gallbladder shoes with narrow shoes and round round shoes. The longitudinal shoe lines make the toe feel elongated and thin.
The color picture J-2 is a side opening type gallbladder shoe, a wider shoe with a wider shoe last, and a half striped shoe with a flower stripe decoration. The dark rubber band is designed between the shoe gall and the back side.
The color picture J-3 is a half open gallbladder shoe. From the inside, it looks like a shoe. It looks like a pair of gallbladder shoes from outside, and it is the relationship between the half shoe and the pressure shoe. This is an asymmetrical structure, so it is called half open shoes.
The color picture J-4 is a kind of outer ear type gallbladder shoes. If you look carefully, you can see that there is not a simple stubble relationship between the shoes and the half girth, but a piece of shoe ridge has been sewn out, and the shoes and half round bars have not really broken off at the heel.
Design features of gallbladder shoes
Since the opening of the gallbladder shoes is closely related to the shoe covers, it will have the design features of the shoe covers. However, the difference between the two covers will inevitably cause great difference.
1. last type characteristics
In selecting the last part, because the gallbladder structure is a color change of the front Gang, it can ultimately be determined by the overall structure of the shoe.
Usually when the last is slightly wider,
2. structural characteristics
There is no special requirement for last wall Leng. The use of plain prime last and tongue type last shoes is better.
The structure of the gallbladder shoes is special, which requires the location of the gallbladder, the shape of the line, the difference between the inside and outside, and the craft.
Because the shoe gallbladder is open, the half round bar is not in a subordinate position like the round bar. Its shape and shoes are evenly distributed with its own position and fixed shape, which is very different from the enclosure parts of the cover shoe.
There are many methods for inserting the shoes and half round bars. When the shoes are bravery, the technology of shoe half pressure is applied to the shoes. When the half section is emphasized, the technology of semi circumferences and pressing shoes and gallbladder should be adopted. When the dividing line is used, the process of sewing is applied, and the slit stitching process is used when the line is desalinated.
Because the gallbladder structure is a color change of the front Gang, it can be matched with different rear teams and develop different structure of gallbladder type shoes.
For example, tongue opening type shoes, gallbladder type shoes, opening opening shoes.
3. special requirements
The special requirements for opening the gallbladder shoes are embodied in the treatment of stilts.
The gallbladder is a variant of the cover shoe, so it is more convenient to handle it by double line.
Because the half gird has its own independence, this is very similar to the design of the short enclosure shoe. Therefore, when making the replica board, the outline of the original shoe gall should be used as the replica board.
The original shoe gall is not handled by the seesaw. The back midline is curved and can not be directly opened.
If you simply take the plate, you can directly treat the shoe gallbladder as a template. If you draw the structural design plan, you should make a duplicate board of the shoe bladder and use it to design the outline of the shoe parts, as shown in figure 2-3-1.
As shown in figure 2-3-1, the key point of designing the shoe gall is the J point. The vertical line of the back midline is passed through the J point, that is, the vertical line of the tangent line, which can get the width line of the front.
Set the width of the shoe bladder at Jo on the front width line.
Then, after Jo point, we designed the dividing line of shoes and gallbladder: A'to Jo, O to O'.
From A to J to V'to O to Jo to A' to A, the contour is the original shoe gall, which is not processed by seesaw, and is used to make duplicated boards.
From A1 to J1 to yV ", O to Jo to A'to A1, the contour line is the shoe bladder part.
The back center line of the original shoe gall is a curve, and the back midline of the shoe part is a straight line.
The design steps of the shoe gallbladder are as follows:
The first step is to design the location and outline of the original shoe gallbladder line according to the pattern of the finished product. The key is to control the width of the point position and prepare the replica board.
The second step: make the back center line of the shoe parts, or take the place of the sew line, or change the take off line.
The third step: use the copy board to draw the outline of the shoe gallbladder in the straight line of the back.
The process of describing the contour of the shoe gall is not only the operation of the design part, but also the operation of taking the stilts, which is similar to the three step design method of the cover.
Because the original shape of the shoe gall is different from the original shape of the shoe lid, the reproduction board is directly prepared on the map.
After making the design of Huai Huai, the difference between the inside and outside is made. For the sake of clarity, the shoe section of the outer side is designed only for the sake of clarity.
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