Design Of False Bottom Shoe
There are many materials and high prices for genuine leather shoes, so fake imitation bottom shoes of imitation bottom shoes come into being.
The fake bottom shoe refers to the shoe that has the appearance of the bottom shoe and is shaped by the stretching process.
The fake bag bottom shoes are also called wrinkled head shoes, and the color picture K 4 is a fake bag bottom shoe.
Just look at the wrinkles on the toe of the shoe, which is much like the bottom of the shoe. But observing the shoe will find that the shoe is concealed by the shoe. If the shoe is really wrapped, the shoe will let the customer see the structure of the round bar and the inner sole.
To observe the sole of the shoe, there are obvious heels, which must be supported by hook and hard bottom. This is very different from the heel of the bottom of the bag and the need for not to hook the heart.
Of course, as a change of shoes, fake bag bottom shoes are still recognized by consumers.
Designing fake bag bottom shoes also needs to design the foundation structure first.
1. finished product drawing
As shown in figure 2-5-3.
This is a cross tongue type fake bag bottom shoe, with a wrinkle on the toe, which belongs to the two row ridge. It is connected by manual punching and thread stitching, and the suture is crossed.
The upper is molded by the rib process, so it is necessary to design the long gird parts and the stretch weight.
In addition, shoes, master, Baotou, insole and so on are all available.
There are two ways to design the long girth parts. One is to take the straight part, one is to take the bending part.
2. structure design drawing
The structure design of the straight package is shown in figure 2-5-4.
First we design the back parts, shoe covers, tongue and so on.
Determine the location and quantity of punching holes on the shoe cover.
In the QO'direction, draw the line along the edges of the gird line, and the length of the girth needs to be calculated.
The amount of wrinkles between each hole in the strip is between 1 and 2mm.
The wrinkles of Imm are very small, and the wrinkles of 1.5mm are relatively moderate; the wrinkles of 2mm are relatively large.
If the wrinkle is greater than 3mm, it belongs to the rough shape style.
If the artificial leather material is used, the amount of wrinkles added to 1.5mm will hardly work. Generally add 2.5 to 3mm wrinkles.
The formula for calculating the girth length is as follows: the length of the girth is ten (the distance between the hole of the shoe cover and the hole is -1).
This calculation is more troublesome than the direct interception: starting from the last hole position, the hole position on the enclosure is truncated one by one, and the distance between each hole is equal to the "ten fold of the distance between the shoe cover holes".
For example, the distance between the holes of the shoe covers is 6mm, the set of wrinkles is 1.5mm, and the hole spacing is 7.5mm.
When intercepting to the front arc, the distance between holes is changed to 6. 5mm.
At the front end of the J, the vertical line, intercept, J "A'=JA" and "J" A'line of the girth are obtained.
From the point of A', we start to connect the bottom line and make the difference between the inside and outside.
The width of the bottom day can be found by tracing the outline of the shoe cover, as shown in the dotted line.
Notice that there is a difference between the front end and the center hole.
For example, if you want to design the curved wrap, you only need to identify the location, the hole position, the back line and the bottom line of the bending strip on the foundation structure, see figure 2-5-5.
To extend the QO line, find the symmetrical point A'of the half panel front A point, which is the front end control point of the bottom port. If the location of the A' point is too close, the bottom port will become smaller, which will hinder the bandage.
Take the A'point as the center and AJ length as the radius, and draw arcs at the front end of the AA' connection.
The radius of the arc is the length of the center line of the girth.
Then the reverse half panel is used, the bottom port is upwards, and the contour line of the bending strip is drawn from the front and bottom of the OQ line, and is tangent to the arc of the front segment.
Finally, the hole position is determined on the bending strip by means of finding the point on the straight strip.
The front and rear hole positions of the shoe covers are 7/5 and 15/6, and the corresponding holes in the girth are 7/6.5 and 15/7.5.
The length of the girth will vary with the size of the wrinkle. Therefore, the location of the midline of the girth should be properly amended to keep the midline of the back line perpendicular to the arc of the girth and to control the A'point.
Similarly, according to the method of designing straight gird, the contour line of the bottom line is connected to make the difference between the inside and outside.
3. sample preparation
The basic model of the shoe cover is shown in figure 2-5-6.
This is the basic model of the shoe cover, which is commonly used for the straight and bent strips.
In the use of leather materials, the shoe cover does not write additional processing capacity around the hole. The hole is placed in the 2mm position of the inside of the shoe cover.
This 2mm is the height of the wrinkled head. The thickness of the shoe cover and the surround strip will fill the width of the 2mm after the string is sewn.
If we want to design the wrinkle height of 3mm, we need to increase the processing capacity of Imm.
Note that if the artificial leather material is used, the hole should be placed in the Imm position of the shoe cover, and 2mm should be added to the periphery so as to avoid pulling holes in the stitch.
The basic pattern of the shoe wrap is shown in figure 2-5-7.
The hole positions of the straight and bending strips are laid on the design line of the fence strip, and then add 2mm (or 3mm) as the height of the wrinkle head.
The ordinary cover shoes distinguish the inside and outside of the shoe in order to help the flat, not wrinkle. For the wrinkled shoe, the shoe cover should have the difference between the inside and outside, and the round bar can not be distinguished from the inside and outside.
What is the difference between straight and curved bars?
The shape of the straight round bar is regular, and the layout is easy to set. It is more economical, but the bottom port is too long, which is not conducive to manual bandage operation.
The bending strip is curved and consumes more materials, but the bottom port is shorter, so it is easy to manually stretch.
Most of the manual operations use curved surround bars, and more straight lines are used in mechanized production.
During processing, the shoe covers and the strips are stitched to form the front part, and then the parts are stitched with the back parts.
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