Design Of Half Bag Bottom Shoe

Half bag bottom shoes are commonly referred to as bottom shoes, and the structure is very typical.

The shoe's predecessor is made by the last technology, and the back part of the shoe is made by the stretching process, so it is called half bag bottom shoe.

Half pack bottom shoes usually have half insole and half pad. No need for inside Baotou only after main heel, shoe cover and back have shoe lining, no shoes on the fence.

From the shoe cavity, you can see the structure of the fence and the sole together directly.

1. finished product drawing

As shown in figure 2-5-8, the wrinkles on the toe of the shoe are made of three ridge structures with a shoe cover around the bar, and double row holes are placed on the shoe covers.

The surrounding bar is connected with the back side, and we should pay attention to the determination of the delineated and pleated boundary.

Because the front shoe of the shoe forms a shoe cover that covers the sole of the foot, usually the front body does not use the insole, the round bar does not use the shoe lining, nor does the inner Baotou.

The stitched upper is very tight, and the upper part should be heated when forming, so that the upper shoe is soft and then the last.

 

Outsole has heel but changes gently. The side of the adhesive surface of the outsole is required to be smooth, and no pattern can be worn to prevent the foot from falling.

2. structure design drawing

The structure design of half bag bottom shoe is shown in figure 2-5-9.

The basic structure design of the whole shoe is first carried out.

 

Because of the use of straight back, the inside and outside of the shoe is connected to the tongue cover.

The rules of the bayonet bar and the cross arm must have the difference between the inside and outside.

Note: the back pack of the bottom port has the amount of bandage, and the front body does not need to increase the amount of stretch, but it is necessary to make an accurate difference between the inside and outside of the mouth.

In order to make the shoe cover design accurately, we should prepare the half panel correction bottom of Li Huai.

On the top of the shoe cover, determine whether there is a wrinkle boundary point. The outer arms are 01 points, and the inside is 02.

The overline point is the vertical line of the Ao line, which is intersected with the bottom port to get the boundary point of the bottom port. The outer point is A1 point, and the inside point is A2 point.

Design holes in pleated areas: 7 / 5 and 13/6.

3. make shoe cover template.

As shown in figure 2-5-10, double row holes are required on the shoe covers.

The first row of holes is located in the inner 2mm position of the design line, making a radial line through each hole, and intercepting second holes on the radiation line.

The distance between the two rows of holes is 5 to 6mm, including shoe ridge height, material thickness and bending amount.

Add the margin of 3mm to the outside of the second row hole.

 

Because this shoe only has a break in the rear bag and position, it is necessary to make the difference between the rear and bottom sides of the shoe, as shown in figure 2-5-11.

 

The last bottom template and half panel are copied from the same shoe last, so their H, F and P points are corresponding.

In figure 2-5-9, measure the length of Pb1, cut out B1 points on the last bottom template, and get the B2 point from the perpendicular line of the heel line from B1 point.

From the B1 point, the vertical line of the bottom midline can get the B1 point. The distance between the 61 point and the B2 point is the difference between the rear package and the bottom port.

Mark the difference in figure 2-5-9 and set B2 point.

4. preparation of model for Wai Wai section inside and outside

As shown in figure 2-5-12, Wai Wai Wai Wai samples are made separately.

There should be a mark on the wrinkle boundary points, a difference mark between the rear and the length, and a punch mark for the cross arm.

 

5. design of shoe structure

The design of the bottom of the shoe is focused on the design of the shoe model, that is, the combination of the fence and the insole.

The specific steps are as follows:

(1) draw the contour line of the last bottom template and connect the basic control line.

This last bottom template should be a template for reducing 3mm.

(2) find the boundary point where there is no wrinkle, set the A1 point according to the length of Ha1, then get the A2 point through the A1 point as the bottom line, see 2-5-13.

 

(3) find the end points of the following packages and set the B1 points according to the length of the Pb1, and get the B2 point through the vertical line of the heel line through the Bi point.

(4) draw the rear contour line using the basic template of the Wai Wai strip, so that the A1 point of the fence is aligned with the A1 point of the last bottom, and the back section (20 ~ 30mm) is cut off from the last bottom template, and the outline of the rear side of the outer garment is traced.

To control the length of the A1B1 on the fence is equal to the A1B1 length of the last bottom template.

If not equal, there is a problem in measurement or positioning.

Use the same method to trace the contour line of the rear arm.

Mark the cross arm punch and Ol and O2 mark on the back gang.

This way of drawing back helps to keep the contour of the back Gang unchanged.

(5) the rear part is trimmed to make the amount of stubble that is connected with the back pack and to make the backing of the back support.

The width of the backing of the back support is 13 to 15mm, and the length is 20 to 30mm after the boundary line A1A2.

In order to facilitate the adjustment of the bottom port, a 5mm wide fork is placed in the position of the heel line, and the top of the cut is hit to the A1A2 line.

(6) the design of the front Gang uses the basic template of the Wai Wai strip, aligns the A1 points, outlines the contour of the contour, and then rolls along the bottom template as the wheel rotates, and rolls the outline around one point at a rolling point, which keeps rotating to the front end until the contour of the contour is left.

The purpose of this is to pfer the width of the fence to the template.

At the toe of the shoe, the pattern can be traced without rolling.

In the same way, draw the contour line of the Wai bar.

As shown in the dotted line in the picture.

After drawing the outline of the fence, you will get the basic model of the shoe body, as shown in figure 2-5-14.

The hole position should be fixed on the shoe body template.

 

When measuring the length of the Wai Wai strip, the length of J301 on the outer side will be longer than that in the J302, which is not conducive to the design of the hole.

You can trim off the length of one corner on the outside side and control the length on both sides.

As shown in the shadow.

The length of the removed is an angle, so the gang will move up after the Huai, as shown in the dotted line in the picture.

Because the length of the girth is fixed, the number of punching holes is fixed, and the spacing between holes is determined.

The length of the wrinkle can be obtained by subtracting the length of the shoe cover with the length of the surround strip.

The total length is apportioned to the distance between each hole, so that the large amount of each wrinkle can be obtained, and the length of the upper hole distance can be calculated by adding the length of the original hole distance.

For example, the length of the girth is 186mm, the length of the shoe is 110, and the total amount of wrinkles is 76mm.

Apportionment to

The 20 holes have a wrinkle of 3. 8mm per hole.

There are 19 spacing and half hole spacing.

The front end of the 7 holes is different from that of the rear port. The front end is allocated to 3. 5mm and the rear end is allocated to Dl4mm.

The errors are equally distributed on the side holes.

Finally, the spacing between the holes is determined to be 7/8.5 and 13/10.

This kind of hole spacing is bigger, the shoe style is rough and casual, and there is no delicacy of the false bottom shoe.

If we want to shorten the distance between holes, we can also shorten the length of the fence properly.

Note: when using dermal material, the hole position of the round bar is also placed in the position of 2mm.

After stitching, the thickness of the girth and the thickness of the shoe cover can make up for the 2mm gap.

If you use artificial leather material, you also receive Imm fixed punch position, plus 2mm machining margin.

After determining the hole position of the shoe cover and the fence strip, the front part can be obtained through a series of stitching, and then connected with other components to form a complete upper.