What Are The Characteristics Of The Collars?

There are two kinds of vertical lapel, shirt and coat.

The neck of shirts is not very large, so the front midline is 0.5 to 1.5 centimeters.

The size of the shirt collar is the size of the collar line, and the collar should be 1.5 to 1.8 centimeters larger than the size of the collar.

The lifting capacity of the upper collar is 1.5 to 2 centimeters.

The collar of the coat is larger, so the warping capacity of the front collar can reach 3~4 centimeters or even larger, which is related to the increase of the collar.

According to the width difference of the upper lapel collar, the lifting capacity of the upper collar can also be set to j to 7 centimeters, and the collar structure pattern can be arranged on the clothes body after the collar is folded, then the collar and the collar face can be split, and the collar and the collar face can be separated by the angle method.

However, with this method, the a must be 3 cm in size and =b in the collar, which is 6 cm in size after the upper face of the split collar is wide.

It can be divided into 3 steps.

Set: the collar is a=3 cm high.

The collar is 1 cm b=6 cm.

Shoulder angle 18 degrees.

Lapel angle is d:X/2

The length of the isosceles triangle is 10 centimeters

The first step is to take the 0. 7a as the leading point as the original folding collar, and connect the broken line with the height of 2 cm above the front collar collar, and make the front collar styling figure. Take the 6+0. 5=6.5 cm from the collar point to the shoulder collar, the front collar width is from the front neutral collar to the garment piece 7.3 centimeters, then take the fold line as the median line, and divide the lead piece to the outside of the garment by equal division.

The back collar is the same as the original folding collar: make a 0. 9A flat line, and make the lapel angle d:X/2 on the flat line (obtained on the neckline of the back piece).

The collar turned out to be larger than the original one, because the actual collar is 4 centimeters and the collar is 5 centimeters.

The second step is to do the d:0.8X/2=Z on the flat line. We must take this dimension in the opposite direction to indicate the looseness of the folding line of the generals and turn it off. The bottom line takes the same length as the original bottom line, "0", and the vertical collar line 3 centimeters for the latter neutral collar. The collar collar is used to connect the lead pin shape, and the diameter of the front collar collar must be 0.8 cm from the front collar.

The third step is to get the arc length "0" after the collar is taken, and the vertical collar line to the upper collar line. The new SNP point is connected with the first middle step folding line, or the D is long and vertical. This line goes down Z multiplied by 0.5 centimeters (this is the collar line angle of turning up the lapel), then takes the "O" collar length, and the vertical line is used to measure the rear middle Lapel width 6 centimeters, then the outer collar line shape and the upper collar collar seam line modeling.

Finally, proofread the upper and lower collar pieces.

Figure 65-7 is a copy of the collar pin and lapel sheet.