Men'S Clothing Goes All The Way To The Degenerate Procedure.
西服以身體為本,用上乘的布料勾勒出男性的軀干和體態,優雅的剪裁打造出瀟灑的風姿和非凡的陽剛氣概。從定制到成衣,從厚重到輕薄,從莊嚴到休閑,西裝的演變史便是男裝的演變史,而從面料廠家發展為品牌帝國的Ermenegildo Zegna 則從各個角度見證了男裝在過去100 年的進化。
The influence of idol in 1930s
1930s witnessed a series of men's wear designs.
innovation
In the Edward era, the tradition of changing clothes on many occasions on the basis of different occasions has finally come to an end. Tweed and flannel have become the most popular suit fabrics; men's perfect double breasted suits are the most popular styles, which are deliberately trimmed wide and large to lengthen the torso visually.
This time, the most influential fashion icon is not Duke of Windsor. As we all know, he usually customize his coat from Savile Row in London, and customize his trousers in New York, and tighten the loose outline to add a little gentle quality to the wide style of the suit.
At the same time, in Hollywood, Marlene Dietrich promoted women's pursuit of men's suits and brought neutral charm to men's wear.
The birth of modern suits in the early twentieth Century
When the gentlemen of Vitoria abandoned their riders' coat and pleat trim and accepted the simple and elegant image of men, the suit became a dignified and decent sign and entered their lives for the first time.
In the early twentieth Century, although the suit was bulky and simple today, it was similar in style to modern suit.
Early industrial technology still does not allow the emergence of ready-made garments. The production of suits is still limited to tailor shops, and the most recognized tailors are from England and Italy.
In 1910, Ermenegildo Zegna, who was prescient, discovered the potential demand of the market for high-end fabrics, and founded a woollen mill in the the Alps District of villa.
He bought raw materials from Australia and South Africa, and imported textile machinery from Britain. By 1930s, Zegna's factories had been quite large.
Leisure trend in 1940s
Before and after the war, Paris has always been the leader in the world of women's clothing, but the capital of men's clothing is in London.
After the end of World War II, the design of women's wear began to return to the ancient phenomenon, returning to the hourglass outline and grand skirt of the romantic period, while men's clothing became lighter and lighter, and a major trend was the emergence of leisure shirts. At that time in New York, if someone wore a shirt and went out without a coat, it was no longer considered a disgrace.
Correspondingly, a more low-key triangular notch can be used as the first choice for a Western-style coat lapel.
The watershed of the 1950s Era
In 1950s, men's wear can be reduced to a set of flannel suits. Dark blue, brown, gray and black almost cover all the office clothes of business people.
Men are still used to wearing bowler hats when they go out, but the brim is not as wide as they were in the early days; the era of double breasted suits ended, along with the disappearance of shoulder pads.
On campus, a young man's clothing revolution is quietly beginning. Ivy League students wear knitted cardigan instead of a suit jacket or try to improve the narrow suit.
In the past, young people wore almost the same clothes as adults. However, from the ten years, the generation gap appeared.
A more radical fashion trend, called Teddy boy sports, took place in Britain in the late 50s. The avant-garde boys wore long suits and chimney trousers and suede shoes, which were hail to their predecessors, but they were full of rebellion.
Young people in 1960s
Clothing
revolution
The dress revolution concentrated by the free generation of young people broke out at the end of the 1960s, when the sexual liberation movement caused a great change in society. As a symbol, Rome's "La Dolce Vita" and London's "Swinging London" firmly grasped the changes of this era.
The Beatles are twisting their hips madly in their slender pants, and the style that Mods has created is nothing new to Moss today.
In 1968, Zegna adapted to the current situation and entered the industry for the first time. This move is of great significance.
The advantage of Zegna is that it can make use of its outstanding position in the field of fabric and constantly improve its classic suit and suit to meet the needs of the times.
From now on, the appearance of men's clothing will be changed completely.
The rise of Italy in 1970s
The men's wear in 1970s witnessed the influence of disco and folk customs. Bell bottoms and printed shirts brought different new images to dress, and polyester and Lycra fabrics entered the mainstream.
In the Second World War, the Italy garment industry, which had been badly injured, spent 20 years to rejuvenate itself.
Pitti Uomo, the most important menswear fair in Europe, is held in Florence, where the "Italy made" represented by Zegna attracts the attention of buyers from the world with its high quality fabrics and tailoring techniques.
In just a few years, Italian style has swept the world. Men all over the world want to behave like a Italy man and have a beautiful figure.
Gianni Agnelli, the glamorous Fiat Automobile president, has been rated by the Esquire as one of the 5 best dressed men in history by virtue of its amazing collection of western style clothes and its humorous modeling tricks, such as wearing her watch outside her shirt and deliberately wearing her tie.
Tailored second spring
The rapid development of the garment industry has brought thousands of tailoring shops to a close. However, with the formation of the new production class, the luxurious lifestyle has become a fashion.
Custom tailored suits are known as "bespoke" by the British, and "Su misura" in Italy. A long time ago, the tailors of Rome and Naples were famous for making suits like cardigan.
For Zegna, it is committed to providing the best service to customers from the first day of the men's clothing industry. The "sumisura" custom service was completed in 1972, and the craftsmen who were skilled in it were well trained. In 4 to 6 weeks, they could achieve the perfect effect only by 2 fitting tests.
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1980s movement
The men's wear in 1980s showed a trend of polarization. On the one hand, the theory of "passing through success" allowed more men to wear suits and ties to work. On the other hand, the movement of the national movement not only changed men's posture, but also promoted the colorful sportswear to be accepted by the holy haute of high fashion.
In fact, as early as 1974, Zegna introduced sportswear for seafaring enthusiasts, including a series of tight fitting sportswear, using silk elastic fabric and crash color wiring, and skiing outfit. Outstanding performance can meet the most critical sportsman and the most stringent environment.
A leap in fabric technology
A big difference between men's clothing and women's clothing is that the appearance is the whole of women's clothing, while men's clothing is alike in appearance and practicality.
The trend of the suit's portability became apparent as early as 1940s. By 1980s, men's demand for fabrics was getting higher and higher. Thanks to the progress of technology, their desire was finally realized.
In 1985, Zegna first introduced the "high-performance" fabric made of superfine fiber wool, which has crease resistant function, light and soft texture, and is very suitable for making summer suits.
It is epoch-making that men can wear their suits in 9 months of a year when they surpass the seasons.
In addition, since 1986, CNC technology has enabled the machine to cut out squares and floral patterns, so that the pattern of cloth can match perfectly with the shape of a suit.
1990s's unprecedented frivolity
In the 1990s, the men's wear style, which is lined with a wide jacket with no lining and comfortable flax and wide legged trousers, is based on the summary of the previous decades, and is simple in pursuit of some kind of laziness and freedom.
On the whole, this is the ten year of being dressed up for weakness and casual wear.
Towards the twenty-first Century, wrinkle resistance and frivolity are the two major trends in the development of suit fabrics. In order to cater for the characteristics of frequent travelling in the workplace, Zegna has developed a number of fabrics that can be refreshed in hot and humid climate.
In 1997, Zegna first tried to collaborate with musicians, considering that the conductor had a large range of movements and exposed to the sweat easily under the fluorescent lamp. Zegna designed a special suit for them, which is both comfortable and easy to move.
Narrow and thin profile in early twenty-first Century
Inspired by the narrow profile of David Bowie and minors, the definition of a suit in the early twenty-first Century is that young men regain the tradition of dressing up, wear small straw hats, wear four button suits, T-Shirts, skinny trousers and sports shoes. The lapel of the coat is as narrow as that of the garment.
Like Pete Doherty, British rock is regarded as the most popular word in fashion magazines, Metrosexual, a new generation of Beatles.
Young people's market cannot be ignored. In 2004, Zegna launched Z Zegna targeting young customers, integrating avant-garde design and innovative fabrics to make it the most sensitive brand of the trend.
Technology is everything.
From blogs to iPod, fashion in the new era is all about fashion.
Men's wear is also true: since 2000, Zegna has been pioneering and innovating. "Micronsphere" fabric has used nano anti fouling technology; "Elements" fabric has applied membrane technology to fabrics, and it can automatically regulate body temperature during climate change; "Oasi Cashmere" fabric is naturally dyed pure cashmere yarn; "Cool Effect" can reflect the sun's rays and help reduce the temperature up to 10 degrees C.
The most interesting design is the "iJacket", which is not released in 2007. In cooperation with Apple Corp, the jacket made of tiny nylon fabric is soft, and the inner chest pocket is equipped with a iPod connecting line, with a control panel on the sleeve, which can match all iPod playback devices with 30 pin connectors.
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