Free Labor In Fashion: Unpaid Interns

Some British fashion companies have long used free interns to make them work for more than 12 hours a day.

Many people are willing to do such an internship in the long run, which is aimed at the last chance of getting the job, but in reality, it is rather slim.

Finally, sometimes interns jump out and say that their workload often exceeds that of regular employees, and that some companies rely too much on free labor.

Got it.

Cassidy also revealed that the company even relies on interns to do some core work.

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After eight months' work in May last year, he decided to leave.

"Obviously, I am not likely to get a formal job here."

He said, "if I stay to be an intern, they will be very happy.

But I can't continue working without pay.

Including this internship, I have worked for five unpaid fashion interns in succession. "

Timothy Brennan, an employment law expert, said that according to Cassidy's description, the company's use of interns in such a way has violated the minimum wage stipulated by the state law.

"The most important part of the minimum wage provision is what the actual work arrangement is, not that the position itself is called an intern or a formal employee."

Brennan said, "if someone works for a long time like a dress and sewing beads, this work can be seen as an essential part of the garment production line. The person who works there should be treated as a regular employee and paid accordingly."

Alexander McCune's intern was asked to sign a consent form, one of which agreed to work 48 hours a week.

The consent form indicates that the intern may at any time request termination of the internship as long as the written notice is given three months in advance.

"Interns must follow all reasonable instructions given by the company and complete these instructions through appropriate working hours," he wrote.

Brennan said that the consent was actually used by the interns as "workers", so the minimum wage requirement was not excessive.

"Even without any other material and evidence, I can be sure that the person who works in accordance with the terms of this agreement is a formal employee."

He said, "if there is no formal staff, there is no need to define working hours.

According to the terms and conditions, it should be paid by the state law.

In a statement issued by the Alexander McQueen company to the guardian, they expressed the belief that their company had no illegal use of interns.

They said: "Alexander McCune has received a lot of positive feedback from a large number of excellent interns.

If your newspaper had talked with two or three interns and reached the opposite conclusion, only a few people would have different opinions on it.

I am sorry to say that your source completely ignores the majority of people's ideas and is not tenable. "

In fact, in addition to the minimum wage, the company asked Cassidy to work longer than the longest working hours prescribed by law.

"In my view, the violation of the law requires that adult workers at least work 11 hours of rest time for every 24 hours of work, and that every 7 days, 24 hours of rest time is guaranteed."

Simpson lawyer of vocational law firm David McBride said.

Is there any unreasonable place?

Alexander McCune's lawyer told the guardian: "there is no doubt that the fashion industry is a special industry. It is impractical to require very regular work and rest time."

They also added that potential excellent interns are "very clear about what industries they are engaged in, and are clear about their responsibilities".

Interns "know very well what the purpose of internship is, and no one can guarantee that the final result of internship is getting the job".

Those who come to practice should get "valuable experience, beautiful resume and career prospects that are worth looking forward to".

They also said that in addition to practical work, companies also try to provide opportunities for interns and industry culture to engage closely, so that they can engage in more skilled jobs, enabling them not only to find the most suitable jobs, but also to get the best learning opportunities.

They insist that high workload is only phased, for example, before each season's new product is released.

"Every season's new products come out to organize a perfect show for customers to see. During this period, not only the interns -- every employee of ours is working overtime, but this is a very normal phenomenon in the fashion industry."

The statement said so.

When working overtime, the interns can get subsidies for meals and taxis, and can make up for rest in the future.

Alexander McCune also denied the accusation that they had internships as core jobs.

They say it is "totally untrue and unbelievable" that the interns form the main working team of the template production department, pointing out that this is "totally out of line with Alexander McQueen's staff structure".

The brand has a fixed team of designers in London and employs some skilled workers. In Italy, there are about 60 employees and some fixed suppliers who undertake creative development and production tasks.

In the fashion industry, it is not just the Alexander McCune family.

Many people who have worked as interns and employees in fashion brands have raised the question of long working hours.

In addition, the unconventional expectations of the industry will also put enormous pressure on young employees.

"Designers are very familiar with the scenes of young people who are 19 or 20 years old. If they make a mistake or work in a bottleneck, they will say to the intern," are you fucking useless? Do you know what you are doing? "

A former manager of an international fashion company said.

(by the way, he admits that the company also relies on interns to do a lot of work.

"Before and after the fashion week, interns often work from eight in the morning to second o'clock in the morning, some people will be hysterical, some people will cry secretly, because everyone asks them to do their work beautifully -- though they may just do it for the first time."

Some people react more fiercely.

"I have seen someone who can not sustain under great pressure and give up."

A person who has worked in fashion brands has said, "if there are some tasks you can't finish on time, they will constantly force you to" designers want them now. "

Even if you can't finish it immediately, they will continue to push it. "

Another former intern of the company pointed out that they sometimes had to face harmful chemicals.

"We need to use a chemical solvent to create corrosive artistic effects on metals.

After I used it, I began to run nosebleeds.

The same is true for other interns.

At the beginning, we made the craft in an ordinary studio.

A week later, everyone began to run nosebleeds. They asked us to do it on the balcony, where ventilation was better.

At that time, it was a severe winter.

Another intern who worked with the company added: "that kind of solvent also causes skin problems.

A girl went into the hospital. "

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Dr. Imanoj Lugli, of the fashion and Design Institute of eastmaral, says young people are faced with these problems because they want to enter the fashion industry. Internship is a necessary stage for everyone.

"Students often tell me how tired and stressed they are when they go to big brands, but they still prefer to practice there.

Because they need such work experience, they also aspire to work in the world famous brand.

Deep change is expected to bring new weather.

However, Anna Heinlap, designer and successful fashion consultant, points out that the value of interns can not be ignored.

"Some newly established brands are very dependent on the work of interns."

She said, "when I was an intern, I chose a small brand, and my work experience was very enjoyable, because I took on more important tasks there, and I really made some achievements."

But she also had unpleasant experiences.

"I worked for a designer for three months.

The interns did all the work, but she didn't even know our names.

She said, "there are 10 interns, only 3 formal employees.

We work from half past nine in the morning to ten in the evening in a building without ice heating.

Designers don't care what we want to learn and what opportunities we will have in the future.

While many interns complain of too much pressure, others are doing nothing creative all day long without getting any valuable experience.

"During my internship, my job is to stay in a small room without windows or chairs, send magazines to brand public relations, and also organize coffee tables."

A female magazine former intern said, "there is absolutely nothing to play."

Of course, some people like the process of internship very much.

"I've done a lot of interesting things, such as giving cover covers, interviews with famous models and so on."

Intern of London Office of an international fashion magazine said, "the working atmosphere is very friendly and I enjoy it very much."

A girl who has practiced in a London fashion brand for three months tells us that her internship experience is entirely based on her needs, rather than a free labor force according to the needs of the company.

"I see all aspects of the industry, so I have an in-depth understanding of the fashion industry, and help me decide whether I want to do this business."

Some worry that the increase in the number of unpaid interns will further reduce the employment rate of graduates.

"Jobs that could have been offered to graduates are now paid to interns who do not pay."

Cassidy said, "the entry-level work of the industry has disappeared.

Why do you pay twenty thousand pounds a year to hire a rookie designer when a company can use interns for free and indefinitely?

Last November, the London dream photo agency was awarded a minimum wage to intern Nicola Vita by court ruling.

Martin Spencer, Assistant Secretary General of the society of David king, who supports the ruling, said optimistically that this would be an exemplable example.

"We hope that this ruling will benefit more people."

He said.

However, others believe that the industry needs deeper reforms, such as providing the longest time limit for unpaid interns.

"Three months should be a reasonable time for unpaid internships.

Because the company decided to want to continue to hire this person, three months of inspection time is enough.

Stephen Overy, Deputy Secretary General of the labor foundation, said, "internship should be an opportunity for interns to get a better understanding of the industry, rather than giving companies the opportunity to use free labor."