Comparison Of New And Old Standards In Windbreaker

Windbreaker is one of the standards of clothing industry in China. In order to further standardize our country Windbreaker Product production and Sale To improve the overall quality and international competitiveness of China's windbreaker, and standardize the national garment industry. technology The Committee has revised the FZ/T81010-2001 standard for wind and rain clothes (hereinafter referred to as the old standard). The revised FZ/T81010-2009 windbreaker (hereinafter referred to as the new standard) was implemented in April 1, 2010. In order to facilitate the standard users to get a clearer understanding of the relevant contents of the new standard, this paper analyzes the changes of the new standard.

One structure And characteristics

The new standard still adopts the basic structure of the existing woven garment standards, and specifies the scope of application, normative reference documents, requirements, inspection methods, inspection rules and signs, packaging, transportation and storage. In the appendix, a test method for inspecting the degree of crack is introduced.

The notable feature of the new standard is that it abandons the compiling idea of heavy appearance and light physics and chemistry, and pays more attention to the examination of physical and chemical properties. It not only takes into account the relevant requirements of GB18401-2003's basic safety technical specification for national textile products, but also unifies the requirements of garment products and fabric standards.

2 major changes

2.1 name

Combined with the standard system of clothing industry, the standard name raincoat is revised to windbreaker.

2.2 scope of application

The application of the old standard is: "it is applicable to raincoat garments made in bulk with textile fabrics as raw materials", and the new standard is revised to "apply to windbreaker made of textile woven fabrics as main fabrics". The new standard redefines the windbreaker from the fiber material and fabric style. It clearly defines "woven fabric as the main fabric" and excludes knitted fabric products with a more accurate name.

2.3 labeling requirements for products

The new standard complements the identification requirements of safety technology categories according to the relevant requirements for the use instructions of clothing products in standard GB18401, which is consistent with the current national standards.

2.4 inherent quality

2.4.1 security performance

Taking into account the implementation of GB18401 and the requirements for integration with the international "green" regulations, besides the old standard formaldehyde content and dry rubbing fastness index, the new standard also supplements the basic safety technology items such as water fastness, pH value, odor and decomposable aromatic amine dyes, and stipulates that the specifications for formaldehyde, pH value, odor and decomposable aromatic amine dyes are no longer specified. Specific values are set according to the relevant regulations of GB18401.

2.4.2 color fastness

In addition to increasing the color fastness to water, it also increased the assessment of color fastness to heat treatment. It abolished the assessment of color fastness to dry and wet rubbing fastness in the original standard. At the same time, the classification of top quality and first class products with wet and rubbing fastness reduced the original standard by half.

Composition and content of 2.4.3 fiber

The old standard stipulates that the ingredients and contents of raw materials for finished products should conform to the contents specified in the instructions, while the new standard increases the requirement for labeling the ingredients and contents of the finished products. The allowable deviation of fiber content is stipulated in accordance with FZ/T01053 and is consistent with other garment standards, making it easy to determine.

2.4.4 washing size change rate

The new standard also regulates terminology, revising the fabric shrinkage index in the original standard to the dimension change rate of finished product washing. Technical indicators have also been modified. If the old standard "fabric shrinkage rate is not greater than 3%" is improved to "clothing length: superior quality -1.5 ~ +1.0, first class -2.5 to +1.0, qualified product -3.0 to +1.0; bust: excellent products -1.0 ~ +0.5, first grade -2.0 ~ +0.5, qualified product -2.5 ~ -2.5". Similarly, the technical standard of dry cleaning shrinkage in the old standard is revised as the assessment index of dry cleaning dimension change rate. Accordingly, the clothing length of the old standard is changed from "less than 1" to "-1.0 to +1.0", and the chest circumference is changed from "less than 0.8" to "-0.8 to +1.0". This avoids the fact that the rate of change in product size is due to unacceptable "upside down" standards.

In other respects, the new standard has also been appropriately adjusted and supplemented. For example, because the combed products are not suitable for making windbreaker, the content of pilling test for such products is abolished. In order to take into account the technical requirements of GB/T21295-2007's "physical and chemical properties of clothing" standard, we also adjusted the assessment requirements for the slip strength, peel strength, tear strength, etc., and no specific numerical indicators were specified. The relevant values were executed according to GB/T21295.

2.5 appearance quality

2.5.1 appearance quality

The biggest change of the new standard in appearance requirements is to substantiate and improve the content of quality defect determination, and modify the number of single samples.

2.5.2 appearance defects

Appearance defects, as important items affecting the appearance of garments, always determine the acceptability of consumers and the external quality of clothing, while the old standards are slightly rough on the part of the contents, which can not well meet the needs of the current windbreaker quality control. The new standard has been adjusted and supplemented, adding "coarse three times roving", "big belly yarn 3" and coarse grain. "Yarn", "wool grain", "color file", "stripe", "lack of Jing" and other fabric yarn defect indicators.

2.5.3 sewing quality

The new standard has also made some modifications and supplements in sewing. In order to ensure the firmness of the stitches, the new standard has raised the assessment index. For example, if there are no 2 single jumps and continuous jumps in the 30 cm of the sewing thread in the old standard, the chain line stitches are not allowed to jump. The technical content of the strip pair is modified, and the requirement of the front and back pair of bars is tightened. The original "mutual difference is not greater than 0.4 cm", and the "mutual difference is not greater than 0.3 cm". The new standard also increased the stipulation of pairs of pairs of sleeves and predecessors, sleeve joints, back seam and back shoulder. It revised the benchmark requirements of the front and left sides, the difference between the bag and the front grid, and the evaluation index of the splicing was also more perfect.

2.5.4 other supplements

According to the quality requirements of raw materials for windbreaker, the new standard has increased the requirements for shoulder pads, inserts and other dressings. There are also technical regulations for the warp and weft of finished products.

3 recommendations

The new standard is more scientific and perfect in terms of contents and regulations than the old ones. But in the actual operation process, some details or descriptions are not rigorous enough. We should make necessary additions in combination with the current reality.

3.1 degree of crack

The new standard modifies the technical content of appendix A "test method of stitch crack degree", clarifies the effective clamping area of the clamp on the sample, unifies the interpretation of the sample selection, and explains the handling methods of the easily occurring abnormal phenomena in detail. These modifications are more convenient for operation and determination. However, the determination of slippage in physical and chemical properties is that the results of fabric breakage, fabric tear or suture fracture are judged to be qualified. This regulation is obviously inconsistent with the previous GB/T2660-2008 shirts and GB/T22700-2008 washing and finishing garments. These two standards clearly stipulate that the fracture is judged to be unqualified. From the perspective of convergence and unification of similar standards, such regulations are not uniform. From the aspect of wearability, if the fabric breaks early in the drawing process, it shows that the fabric strength is low, and the quality of the product is most likely to be unqualified. Therefore, judging from the angle of ensuring the quality of clothing and safeguarding the interests of consumers, it seems inappropriate to be qualified.

3.2 stitch density

In view of the recent changes in keyhole equipment and technology, the new standard has perfected and supplemented manual needle and triangle needle needle density assessment indicators, and improved the needle trace density requirements. For example, the old standard "10 needles /3 cm to 14 needles /3 cm" is revised as "12 needles /3 cm to 14 needles /3 cm", below the standard 2 needle (2 needles) is a light defect, less than the standard 2 needle above is a heavy defect, and for the higher range of this is not explained, this may lead to a decision without a chapter to follow. Therefore, it is recommended to refer to the FZ/T81007-2003 standard of "single and clipped garments" to change this part to more than 12 needles /3cm, or to supplement the judgement or explanation of the distance between the upper and the upper limit of the interval.

4 Conclusion

The new standard embodies the principles of advanced technology, economic rationality, safety, reliability and coordination. The standards are more perfect and reasonable, and the level is obviously improved. It can provide better technical basis for product production and trade, but some details still need to be improved and perfected.