Asian Designer Wave (Chart)
by Michelle Obama Wu Jigang, who designs clothes, has become the fashion circle of New York. Famous designer 。
Wu Jigang and Richard Cai and Alexander Wang (left)
As early as this June, the Lincoln Center held in the United States. Latest fashion In the Grand Prix, Asian designer It shows their strength. One after another, three designers were called to the stage to receive the best design rookie of the year. They were Richard Chai, the men's design category. Fashion Design Womenswear Wu Jigang (Jason Wu) and Alexander Wang (Alexander Wang) of jewelry design. Asian designers have become a strong wave in the field of fashion design.
Asian Designer Pass through the hall into the inner chamber
American fashion The Grand Prix is often compared to the Oscar prize in the clothing industry, including stars like Sarah Jessica Parker and Gwyeth Patru, and almost all of them. Top designers Will participate in it. This is the first time in the history of the American designers association that all three prizes are awarded to Asian designers. That night, the Association announced the winner of a scholarship worth 25 thousand dollars, and three students were of Asian origin.
"This is so exciting." Wu Jigang said. Ever since Michel Obama wore his designs. skirt After her husband's inaugural speech, not only in the United States, his name was also widely known in his native Taiwan. "Not long ago, Donna Karen (clothing brand) DKNY The founder, Mike Cole (the famous American designer) is still a rookie. Now, our Asian designers have occupied a large number of rivers and mountains.
These Asian designers are all in the room. New York fashion industry The wind direction has changed greatly. In the recent fashion week in New York, many of the most promising young designers are of Asian origin. For example, Alexander Wang, Wu Jigang, and the Thai magazine designer Kuhn pagna GoerTek, appearing in the nine issue of the vogue magazine, and Prabal Gurung, Chinese designer Philip Lin, Derek Lin and so on, these names are increasingly representative. Garment industry The future.
Since the 90s of last century, the major design schools in the world have begun to receive large numbers of Asian American or Asian students. Part of the reason is that when they recruit students, they are inclined to the fast developing countries (such as Korea and Japan). Fashion industry There is a new perspective. According to the Parsons School of design, 70% of the foreign students in the clothing Institute are Asian students. At the New York Fashion Institute, 23% of the 1200 students are Asian or Asian American.
"New York Fashion Technology Institute is a place with many rivers and streams, but this is the most obvious change we have ever seen." Joanne Arbuckle, Dean of the school of art and design, said: "compared with many years ago, it is indeed an amazing change. We have many Asian students and Asian students, and are becoming more and more.
The rise of Asian designers has had several waves in the history of the United States, including the 80s of last century. anna sui and Vera Wang (the famous American Wedding Designer) was the representative of that time. In recent years, with the new generation of designers developing their territory in New York, Asian designers have gradually occupied the forefront. In 1995, the American designers association had only 10 Asian members. Today, the Asian armies occupy at least 35 seats.
Bumpy struggle and dazzling pride
This follows the 80s of last century. Jewish Designer The reason why fashion industry in New York is brilliant is very similar. These Jewish designers include Calvin Klein, RAF Lauren, Mark Jakob 。 Throughout the twentieth Century, Jewish immigrants from generation to generation created a thriving garment district in New York. They started out as a garment maker, then a factory director, then a manufacturer and a seller - and finally became a designer. Many Asian designers have experienced the evolution from factories to T. Many of their parents or grandparents have had clothes makers.
Derek Lam He is a Chinese American designer who was born in San Francisco and later developed in New York. His latest luxury clothing series has a classical uptown style. His grandparents had a clothing factory specializing in bridal wedding dresses in San Francisco, while their parents specialized in clothing import and export business. In 1990, Derek Lin graduated from the Parsons School of design, New York's famous fashion Institute. He set up his own brand in 2002. Mike Cole (Michael Kors) for 12 years.
although Derek Lam The design is very popular, but when he first started his own business, the road was not so easy. The first series of slow-moving businesses and ineffective business operations were thrown at the expense of business partners.
But after a few quarters, his clothing The series is beginning to fire. He won several awards in a row, including the 2007 Designer Awards of the American designers association. He opened two stores in Manhattan and luxury for Italy. Brand TOD'S A series of costumes and accessories were designed. In a recent trip to Shanghai and Beijing, he did not expect his popularity to be so high.
"We have come to realize that we are Asian Americans. Designer It's proud to be on the world stage. " Derek Lin said.
Cultural changes behind "Asian design"
Those future Designer The pursuit of dreams is a cultural change which has been developing slowly. Anna Sue told the International Herald Tribune in 2008 that their generation's designers were often asked by their parents, "why do you choose to be a tailor when you can be a doctor?"
Wu Jigang believes that similar pressures existed 10 years ago. "When I prepare to apply Parsons My mother never heard of it in design college. But now everyone wants to go to Parsons. In the eyes of Asian parents, the fashion industry is becoming more and more popular.
Unlike the Japanese style designers who conquered Paris in the 80s of last century, Yamamoto Teruji, Wakubo Rei and Lssey Miyake, unlike modern avant-garde designers, do not have the same style logo. Alexander Wang Street breeze Derek Lin elegance Dress Not at all. Peter San (Peter Som) love dot printing is different. But no one wants to label himself as "Asian American". Carmen Lavu, a student at Parsons college, who has just won a scholarship, is a Chinese, but he was born in Spain. "Strictly speaking, I am Spanish," she said.
In any case, the increasing attention of Asian designers has brought about one advantage: as a whole, they can create more opportunities for the Asian fashion industry. After all, Luxury brand Clothing territory has long been occupied by European brands such as LV and Chanel.
Because it was designed for Mrs. Obama. clothing Well received, Wu Jigang was invited back to Taiwan to design a residential building, and he also worked with Shiseido to develop an eye shadow series that would soon be put into the whole Chinese market. Peter San said that his brand sales in Asia ranked first in the world. The speed of information exchange today enables consumers in Korea, China, Taiwan and Thailand to learn new designers quickly, just as they know about those leading brands. Derek Lin revealed that he was invited back to China. Reality show The referee will appear in the new program "creative sky" next month.
In this program, aspiring Fashion Designer They will face a series of challenges, similar to the American overpass. The biggest difference is that the award of the program is not to show its design in fashion week, but a more attractive prize in Asia - the winner will get the chance to enter the Parsons School of design.
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