Return Of Jil Sander (Chart)

Past times, Jil Sander Use the expensive fabric to make a simple high fashion. Nowadays, the quality of clothing for parity has been unprecedentedly high. No matter what the trend of the times and the changes of personal circumstances, she has been insisting on being "the purest clothes".

The 67 year old Jil Sander is still beautiful. The Nordic blue eyes reminiscent of the lake that shines under the sun. The pale golden hair is naturally stretched like a tendril like plant.

In her childhood, also known as Heidemarie JilineSander, she hated her mother's disorderly curly hair. However, she likes to watch her mother step on the sewing machine. trousers And corduroy shirts with them. At the age of 24, she inherited her mother's sewing machine. It was in 1968 that she founded the Jil Sander brand. Since then, mother has been wearing the clothes her daughter designs.

"I fell in love long ago. garments covering the legs " She recalled that after the Second World War, the teacher at the girl's school in her school did not approve of this subversive new dress. "Whenever I wear skirts to go to class, she will smile."

　　 Advanced person

Jil Sander is a sensitive and strong woman with the perseverance and meticulous character of the Germans. In 1975, her debut Paris show did not start. But in 1980s, when she was gorgeous, she went against the trend. Purism Style has gradually gained a foothold in the fashion industry and has been regarded as an alternative example. At the end of 1980s, her company was successfully listed on the Frankfurt stock exchange.

French fashion consultant Jean-Jacques Picart It is so recalled that he participated in the planning of Jil Sander Paris virgin show: "flow, simplicity, cashmere elastic fabric, real silk, such as second layers of skin fabrics, focusing on knitted garments and coats - and wearing a boy's trousers models of young models Ins de laFressange."

"She appeared too early -- in the days of ThierryMugler, Claudia Montana and EmanuelUngaro, her style was hard to accept." Picart To speak pertinently.

Jil Sander thought the show was a total failure. Until 18 years later, in 1993, she opened a landmark on Montaigne Avenue. Minimalism Shops only get a kind of remedial satisfaction.

　　 Recluse

After entering twenty-first Century, the career of Jil Sander was at a low ebb, especially with the Prada group. In August 1999, Prada bought a stake in Jil Sander75%. After only half a year, she resigned from the company's president. Chief designer Duties. What's more dramatic is that she returned to her place in 2003 and signed a 6 year contract with Prada, but a year and a half later, the second sides split up. Since then, the Jil Sander brand that has changed several times has nothing to do with its founder.

Jil Sander is now silent about her Prada era. Whether the differences were aesthetic or money could not be investigated. She summed it up as one sentence: big conglomerates manipulated. Fashion world Capricious.

She had been a hermit for 4 years until she came to the UNIQLO library from the consortium, who had just set up her own. fashion Consulting company. To her heart, this time, she did not have to repeat the old road in the high fashion industry. She became the first designer in the history to devote herself to the design of the cheap fashion brand. It's like a redemption, or a revolution. After launching the +J series for UNIQLO, people will no longer ask, "Why are your designs so expensive?" Now they are not only expensive, but also good or bad. Everyone has the right to speak.

　　 Purists

He has worked with Jil Sander for many years, and now he is also involved in the modeling of the advertisement of + Ji series. JoeMcKenna Her work style in UNIQLO is not the same as it used to be. "The same accuracy, the same strict standard - every stitch, every button is very exquisite." McKenna, who has witnessed the +J fitting process many times.

Jil Sander is quite satisfied with the +J autumn series, which will be released in September. A well tailored ginger coat. Fashionable The price of a basket of blue, Hooded Coat and coat is no more than 1000 yuan. In the summer series, the price of light hooded coats and corduroy trousers is less than 500 yuan.

She herself often wears a J white shirt and a Tibetan blue coat, with her old Jil Sander. trousers A perfect match - this is her invariable landmark dress for many years. "I devoted all my enthusiasm and experience to +J," she said. "Perhaps, I am doomed to design for more people. I think it's kind of like a gift for me. "

She does not like the idea of "cheap". She focuses on functionality and unity, and reflects her consistent design style with clean lines and meticulous details. "My mother used to say that we were too poor to buy too expensive things." Her childhood was spent in German war Hamburg. Like many young people in this port city, she fled to Losangeles, University of California at Los Angeles, and then went to New York to become one. Latest fashion Reporter. When she was 21 years old, she returned to her hometown after her father's sudden death. After 3 years, she founded a brand.

She also doesn't like to be defined as " minimalist "I prefer to call it" pure "- the minimalist sounds empty. She said. In 1980, she named Pure a new perfume.

　　 Successful person

Some people say, Uniqlo For Jil Sander, it is a life-saving straw. After retiring, though she was not down and out, she lost the focus of her career. She admitted to herself: "the company is my home, just like boarding school, you will never feel lonely." After parting with Prada, Jil Sander once cured herself by yoga and exercise. "She was hurt deeply." One of her friends once revealed.

"I realized the difficulties and the unfathomable fashion industry early." She said, this is the German character, she can not be like. American designers That's pretty smart.

Things are changing and they are reunited. Jil Sander He said he was "very energetic, happy and childish." She was overjoyed by the success of the +J series. She even felt a bit incredible that the Chinese factory that she had never visited herself could present her design concept so perfectly.

In April of this year, Jil Sander renewed the 3 year contract with UNIQLO, that is, she would design clothes for the general public until at least 70 years old. Q: from the fashion industry in 2004 to 2008 with UNIQLO, you completely stopped in the past 4 years. Design Do you work?

A: before I started designing +J, I always watched with a pair of designer's eyes. Fashion world 。 During that time, I traveled around and became interested in gardening. At the same time, I learned to negotiate with others. I always want to return to the fashion world, but I have to choose an ideal opportunity.

Q: what led you to the final choice? Uniqlo Such a parity brand?

A: in the current circumstances, UNIQLO is the most suitable choice. High fashion The industry is at a crossroads. The big group is a bit out of date, and creativity is constantly being duplicated and flashy. I want to have a fresh start, a clear goal. The definition of modern basic clothing is still very confusing, and this field needs to be broken through. I always advocate simple lines and smart cutting, so trying to design a popular garment line is a natural challenge. I want to try to get the highest level of quality.

Q: what do you think of fast fashion? In this connection, luxury brands also launched a red only season. Fashion dress And in the handbag industry, how do you design the basic price of the flat price for a longer life?

A: the classic tailoring also needs continuous improvement and innovation to keep fresh attraction. I am not going to shut out the trend. What I am more concerned about is how to maintain a series of self consistency. It must be a series of clear concepts and natural evolution. I hope that +J will be longer than the hot season costumes. At the same time, I hope it will become a modern day. Mashup trend A balance element in.

Q: you have always been very sophisticated about fabrics. In the past, you always invited fashion editors to touch the expensive fabrics personally and feel their value. When you use cheap material to do it clothes Do you feel uncomfortable?

A: of course, the luxury fabric is parity. brand Unattainable. Sometimes, I think we have created miracles. We have done a lot of fabric research and development, and huge orders also enable us to get quality fabrics at incredible prices.

Q: for men's and women's wear, yours. Design The standards are quite uniform. In your opinion, is the gender boundary of clothing less important?

A: I was more interested in men's clothing since I was young. Whether fabric, cut or color, Men's wear It's not as fragile as women's clothes. So my designs have an androgynous trait. But I also like feminism, which is the kind of confidence, coolness and sophistication.

I do think that the boundaries between men's wear and women's wear will be increasingly blurred. Men are becoming more and more concerned about fashion, eager to wear fashionable clothes, and women are pursuing some unified styles, whether they are sweet girls or jeans. Chanel jacket Gothic or something. However, there are also some women who dress with strong ideas. Mature and individual clothes are often associated with successful and independent lifestyles. I hope to provide clothing that emphasizes personal charm, character and intelligence, but not gender.

Q: you always seem to be more inclined to draw inspiration than to pay tribute to a certain era in the past.

A: Bauhaus architecture has the most profound impact on my design. Actually, it is not just me, it has a very wide impact. I have different periods. Art All of them are very interested. I find that in any era, there are similar principles for perfection, including proportions and symmetry, and the pursuit of opponent's craft.

Q: as a German, you have close contacts with Italy and Japan. Can you adapt to these two countries?

A: in spirit, I am closer to Italians. At first, Japan had a great cultural impact on me. I must strive to adapt to the complex social strata, the underlying rules of communication, and the social status of Japanese women. But from a professional point of view, I feel very comfortable. Japanese are very loyal to quality. Originality UNIQLO is also a company that can adapt itself to new things. Moreover, Japan also has many traditional processes worthy of development, study and innovation.

In Italy, everything is more personal, and the family business in Italy is right. Luxury goods Very good at that. UNIQLO gives me the chance to try out a more productive design, which is a burden and a good opportunity. In the past, I wanted to combine the advantages of two fashion cultures. We have already started working with fabric manufacturers in Italy.