Jan Taminiau: Designer Coming Out Of The Red Light District

Character card

Jan Taminiau

He graduated from Holland Arnhem in 2001.

The college was the most talented at school.

(Roos Gesink Award) award has become a new trend in high-end fashion design.

In 2003, he built his own brand and held many times in Amsterdam, Paris and Rome.

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In 2009, he participated in the "Red Light Fashion" project in Amsterdam red light district, and set up studios and exhibition rooms in the red light district.

Neighbour with a prostitute

In Amsterdam International

When he came to see Jan Taminiau, he was already in the media.

The design of the rookie was crowded, and the boy seemed to be unable to adapt himself to the big boy with a slight head and thin body. His face was red and white with inexplicable shyness.

However, people say, "in the past few years, when he was young enough to be famous, he could hardly say anything in a media interview."

But now he is an internationally renowned fashion designer who has been in Paris every year to make new clothes.

Besides, his studio and exhibition window are in the red light district of Amsterdam.

"In fact, I first received a call from HTNK and asked if I had a house in the red light district without rent, and I was not familiar with it when you were willing to come.

But I think we should try it. Maybe there will be good inspiration. "

What Jan Taminiau said is that the government of Holland, in order to control the chaos of red light district, borrowed the activity of "Turning Talent Into Business" launched by fashion organization HTNK. In order to assist young fashion designers to start their own businesses, some of the windows in the red light district (originally prostitutes) were rented as an exhibition window worthy of the name.

"Actually, it really feels good to try it. This is the old town, there are Chinatowns, there are rivers and swans are swimming."

The natural environment is excellent and the social environment is more challenging. On the other hand, the prostitutes who are jokingly called "invoices" by the Chinese are dressed in three points to make their faces under the neon lights. On the other hand, these international designers are trying to figure out what clothes people should wear.

"Putting the work on display in the window, really let me start thinking, maybe those models should not wear anything. Nudity is the fashion of red light district."

But as a senior garment designer, Jan Taminiau certainly can not really turn a "new clothes of the emperor" into the operation, but no one has ever thought that the designer, who is known for his concept clothes, works harder than his neighbor's prostitute.

"We are full-time workers who do not stop to rest for 3 consecutive months. Every stitch and thread is sewn by hand, which can be said to be a 100 hour sewing for a garment."

He stopped to paint with his hands and said to me, "such a piece of embroidery will have to be embroidered for 8 hours, but nothing is more interesting than making a beautiful dress. I love this job and love my working group. Everyone has a lot of fun together.

Although it is often used as a joke, many designers do not earn as much as prostitutes in the red light district.

Boys also want to knit sweaters.

Although few show up in Holland now, Jan Taminiau will come to see Amsterdam fashion week every year. "It's like going home to see it. After all, this is my first time to be an independent show."

Before that, Jan Taminiau was just a student of Arnhem design school.

"At the beginning, I studied in Breda, and at that time, I had only 5 students in my class, and then I pferred to Arnhem learning. There were 27 people in my class. Plus there were many painters in the school, who studied with us in design. Every day we exchange ideas, not only fashion, but also artistic sense. We try to define the beauty for ourselves and understand the value of beauty."

The school gave Jan Taminiau plenty of room for freedom. "Teachers always encourage us to interpret and develop our own ideas and show our individuality."

With this independent spirit of education, Jan Taminiau put his interest in traditional handcraftsmanship into the fashion creation, and a dress designed at school was noticed by the Hague museum staff.

"That dress can be a dress and a skirt.

I have used quite a few traditional crafts in Holland, and those embroiders have surprised the officials.

No wonder the women's clothing department of the Hague Museum voluntarily called Jan Taminiau and said, "we need to keep some fashion materials in Holland. When we see your work, we feel so beautiful that you will become famous in the future, so now we rush to collect your work."

Mentioned Jan Taminiau's fascination with traditional handicraft, and had to talk about his parents.

Jan Taminiau's mother is an interior designer, while her father is an antique collector. "I was exposed to ancient crafts and materials at a very young age, especially grandma's antiques from China, so exquisite and delicate, and beautiful dizzy.

I imagine that they can be passed from one person to another, where exactly did they originate and how to do it carefully? "In the eyes of Jan Taminiau, these mysterious handicraft skills give him infinite expectation." if you want to create the future, you must understand history. In the past, we need to cherish it. "

In order to "treasure traditional handicraft", Jan Taminiau's mother is more practical. When the children read, they suggested for the school, "boys also need to learn to knit sweaters."

And the school has adopted it! "Modern society industry is developing too fast, many traditional crafts disappear, and I am most delighted to find some in China.

Many silk materials for making clothes are found in China. They are specially designed for Japanese Royale, or for the clothes of Peking Opera. Of course, I also get a lot of inspiration in the makeup of Peking Opera.

Jan Taminiau also pointed out that "Holland Delft blue porcelain is from China. When I saw Jingdezhen porcelain, I fell in love with those colors."

Stone is cold, virginity is pure.

For people who understand Jan Taminiau, his fascination in ancient skills is comparable to the pursuit of post-modern lines.

In the fashion show Reflection, which was just concluded in Paris, those dark and dark nude clothing made the whole stage full of the post-modern flavor of space.

"The core idea of this exhibition is to imitate mirrors and refraction and reflection, just as you stand in front of the mirror and look at yourself in the mirror before realizing that you are escaping from the real world at that moment."

When the magnesium lamp hits the fine clothes, crepe, chiffon, metal sequins, hand woven cloth, SWAROVSKI crystal and metal knitted fabric reflect the dazzling light of different angles with the wobble of the clothes. A mysterious feeling which is indescribable is born, and these are actually from the ancient handicraft skills.

"Many people came to my studio and couldn't believe it. They would say," is it true? Are you really embroidering, ironing, and sewing every little sequins on the clothes here? "This exhibition also shows that every bead comes from our hands, and we even weave our own cloth.

And what I want is that they are virginal and cold.

Although SWAROVSKI does bring some cold texture to the people, Jan Taminiau has a clear purpose of highlighting the beauty of women under the processing of slender V sequins.

As the French media commented, "the beauty of Jan Taminiau is charming and tempting, and the woman in his clothes must be confident and shining with inner glory."

In January 2011, before selling the best garments in stores, the women wearing Jan Taminiau skirts were 25 to 80 years old. "I think dressing is more important than fashion itself. After hundreds of hours of hard work, handmade skirts are made to be two. I have to ensure that every part fits well, such as elegant underground cars.

As to why so many people are looking for me to design, I think they may see my passion and love, because I have no motivation to do these things, I am just happy to let people who like my clothes to be surrounded, you know, it feels wonderful.

Q&A

TO: when you hear the following noun, what is your first reaction? Red light district and design.

If the red light district, I first thought of the studio, can create a lot of beautiful things, is the feeling of home.

Here, I can put people into their own cosmos and make their own costumes. Unlike Paris, New York or Milan, I can avoid all kinds of interference.

Design means passion, love and happiness. I want to bring the accumulation of history and past into the future.

TO: it takes hundreds of hours for you to make a skirt. Will you be willing to give it to someone else after you finish it?

Just like my own child, one day I will go to school and grow up and leave home, get married and have children. When I make a skirt, I know that one day we will be apart. This skirt will be worn by people, but it will be beautiful. It will be able to carry out its functions completely. There will be no problems, no lines or temporary drops in a place.

TO: how does it feel to spend such a long time making a skirt?

This is the feeling of love passed to customers through skirts.

And skirts, like children, will come back one day, because I will tell clients that if there is any problem with this skirt, you can give it to me, I will repair it, so that I can communicate with customers.

TO: which is your most memorable fashion show?

Every time it was unforgettable.

For the first time in Amsterdam, there was no tension in the evaluation.

The first fashion show outside Amsterdam was in Rome, where there were many women's garments, but the reaction was better.

Later, every time I went to Paris, I felt different about every show. I gave everything to the exhibition hall. The feeling of emptiness was unforgettable.

TO: where do you usually get your inspiration?

From everyday life, there is nothing special. When everything is in place, a sense of tranquil will be produced gradually. When all links are connected, I will know what I want, and I will not follow any rules.

TO: what's your impression of China?

I like China very much, and now many hand made silk fabrics are only available in China.

And my brother married a Chinese woman and lived in Shanghai, so I would go and play with him.

Every time I go to China, I go with him to look for traditional handicrafts.

TO: what brand of clothing do you like to wear?

Now I wear Martin Margiela. I rarely pay attention to the brand I wear.

TO: what do you put in your daily bag?

Habits do not carry bags, nor purses.

TO: what brand is your sunglasses?

Marc Jacobs.