Basic Style Characteristics Of Hanfu

1. Clothing system:

(1) basic characteristics: clothing system is

(two) clothing system

1. ceremonial dress (such as Xuan Mian costume): the dress has always been made of clothes and has not been changed because of dynastic changes. It has always been based on the weekly system and used different accessories in different grades.

Modern use occasions: mainly used for sacrificial rites and other ceremonial occasions.

2. skirts: Women's clothes

The skirt can also be classified according to the position of the waist line.

(1) chest skirts are worn on skirts, breasts and breasts.

(2) high waist skirt (skirts on the waist and chest, popular in Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties)

(3) waist waist skirt.

According to the styles of collar, it is divided into:

(1) cross neckline skirt

(2) a pair of skirts, which are worn in the middle of the Tang Dynasty and the five generation, are worn on the top of the skirt.

There is also a kind of skirt that is worn outside. It is popular in song and Ming Dynasties. The popular way of wearing in the Song Dynasty is to put the outer skirt on the outside. The Ming Dynasty has a lot of characteristics when it is worn outside. The pipa sleeves have small sleeves, and there are no sleeves, oblique collar and white collar. Though the word "coat" is the meaning of "Yi", now in order to distinguish the way of wearing in the skirt, it is commonly known as "jacket skirt".

Modern use occasions: outing, shopping, traditional festivals, etc.

3. when men wear cloak and cloak, they can also wear clothes under their clothes.

Modern use occasions: because the sleeves of the jacket are not small, they can be used as small tuxedo.

Two. Deep garment system:

(1) the basic characteristics: the deep garment system is the development of the clothing system, the upper and lower divisions are cut and stitched at the waist, and there is also the meaning of inheriting clothes.

(two) deep garment design: deep clothing is divided into straight lines and curved pieces according to their skirts.

(1) Qu Yuan deep clothing: popular in the Han Dynasty, it is divided into single winding and double winding. Apart from the general winding style, it also divides fish tail and swallow tail.

The fish tail is enlarged along the rim of the flap, and the edges look like fish tail.

The swallow tail is long next to the front, and the tail is short. It looks like the swallow's tail.

(2) straight clothes: straight lines are widely used in the Song Dynasty.

Straight tail also has a straight tail of fish tail, similar to the principle of Qu Ju.

(3) Zhu Zishen's clothes: Zhu Zi's clothes refers to the deep clothes that are textual research based on the records of Zhu Xi's Zhu Xi family ritual, straight collar (no continuation, so similar to the lapel), and worn as the cross, the clothes are trapezoid.

Zhu Xi's influence was very great. Japan and Korea were made on the basis of the Zhu Xi system, or strictly implemented or added.

In the Ming Dynasty, more explanations were put forward.

Modern use occasions: a small dress that can be worn when formal dress is required, such as attending a banquet, etc.

Three. Through the cutting system:

(1) basic characteristics: the cutting system is the product of further development on the basis of deep clothing. It is no longer cut up and down separately, but adopts the method of cutting up and down. The middle seam of the back goes straight to the bottom, so it is called "straight", also known as straight body, popular in song and Ming Dynasties, and belongs to men's clothing.

(two) style discrimination: "Ming Gong history" records: "straight body: the system is the same as that of the Taoist robes, but only on the outer side of the temple, there is a big red straight robe. Whenever there is a big event, if you go through the division room or take a pen straight from the bottom of the house, you will start wearing it. If you see the elders, you do not wear any colors. There are people who are green or green, who do not dare to make a big red or wear a shirt and a bunch of others."

It can be seen from the above that the straight body is put on the outside, and there are no shirts in it.

The inside is pendant is the Taoist robe (Ding Ling Dao robe), because the two generation of scholars in song and Ming Dynasties like to wear the way clothes, so the Taoist gowns are not only Taoist can wear.

(three) straight body style: there are differences in the sleeves and the lapse between the two dynasties of song and Ming Dynasties. The song is straight sleeves, while the Ming Dynasty has more Pipa sleeves. In the later stage, there are diagonal necklines (the left ones are higher than the right ones, and the feet of Y are more upwards and warmer).

Modern use occasions: Men's clothes are similar to those of skirts.

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Four. Coat: including Zi, cloak and half arm.

(1) Zi Zi: it is mainly straight collar, slit on both sides, fixed with laces or metal buttons on the chest, popular in song and Ming Dynasties, and generally worn by women.

The length of the seed is on the foot, and the other on the knees.

It has narrow sleeves, wide sleeves and square straight sleeves.

It can be used for matching skirt, towel and so on.

Modern use occasions: Etiquette occasions can be equipped with big sleeves, usually with narrow sleeves.

(two) tunic: Men's wear, usually with clothing or straight robe.

There are both sides of the slit also have no slit, the chest has tie tie, because popular among scholar bureaucrats, so the sleeves are relatively wide, generally the square straight sleeve.

In the history of Ming Gong, it is recorded: "the coat is like the robe of a Taoist gown, but in recent years, it has also been in the same way.

The old system did not sew sleeves.

Color and vegetarian. "

The cloak is a form of clothing that is popular among scholars between song and Ming Dynasties. It was originally made of cranes and feathers. After that, the Taoist embroidered the clothes on the road, also called crane cloak. The song and Ming scholars wore fashionable clothes and changed the sleeves of the original clothes and clothes into sleeves.

Modern use occasions: general etiquette occasions can be used.

(three) half arm: a form of clothing that was popular in Qin Han, Sui and Tang Dynasties, and Ming Dynasty. The half arms of the three periods are slightly different. Men and women can wear them. They have straight collar, hand over and cross head form. The length of sleeves is only to the upper arm, which is called half arm.

Women: the straight neck and half arms are divided into two kinds, one is a short coat, usually to the waist, with a skirt, half arm is worn outside the skirt, popular in the Sui and Tang Dynasties; one is a long coat, usually to the knees, not slit, with deep clothing, popular in the Qin and Han Dynasties.

The general sleeves are crossed and worn in skirts.

Man: the man's straight collar half arm is a long coat, usually with deep clothes, popular in the Qin and Han Dynasties.

Men's Cross and short arms are usually worn with pants, and can be directly worn by hot weather.

There is also a pendulum similar to the straight body robe of the half arms popular in the Ming Dynasty.

Modern use occasions: used as a regular clothing.

Five. Underwear system:

In general, it is convenient to change the clothes into trousers.

Modern use occasions: suitable for sports wear.

Six. Round collar gowns:

This is rather special, so I want to talk about it alone.

Round collar gowns are popular in the Sui and Tang Dynasties. They are generally considered to be Hu clothing, belonging to men's clothing, and female officials in the Tang Dynasty can also be worn.

Because the Tang Dynasty wore the round collar gown as a public uniform and used it to the Ming Dynasty, the round collar had been integrated into the Han wedding as a uniform in the Ming Dynasty.

The round collar of each period is also slightly different.

Modern use occasions: narrow sleeves can be used as regular clothing.

Seven. Shirts:

1. middle skirt 2. skirt 3. middle single.

Modern use occasions:

Middle skirts are usually worn by clothing or underpants.

The middle order is worn when wearing long clothes, such as deep clothing and straight body.

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Eight. Children's Hanfu:

Before becoming a child (Cheng Tong is a teenager), a child can only wear clothes or trousers, and can not wear long coat.

Adult children can wear long gowns, but in ancient times they need to have their hair tied (for men and women alike).

Nine. Sleeves:

The sleeves of the Hanfu sleeves cover half of the palm of the hand and close the whole hand.

The sleeves of Hanfu are varied, basically divided into five types: wide sleeves, vertical sleeves, square straight sleeves, narrow sleeves and Pipa sleeves.

(1) wide sleeves: generally used for dress, usually with wide sleeves and performing with wide sleeves.

1. generally used wide sleeves are usually opened around the waist belt, and the opening positions of the straight sleeves are the same, and then extend to the sizes of different sizes. The wide sleeves are measured with arc seals, and the outer openings are sleeved on the wide sleeves.

2. performing with wide sleeves is usually worn by dancers, usually opening in narrow sleeves, then turning outward and bending down, usually sleeves on sleeves.

3. the difference between the kimono sleeve and the kimono sleeve: the inner sleeve is the inner opening, the outer side is sealed, the radian is measured on the outside, similar to the wide sleeve inversion, the length of the sleeve is all on the wrist, and the sleeve is connected to the shoulder.

(two) hung Hu sleeves: popular in the Han Dynasty, usually used in deep or deep garments, with wide sleeves and sleeves.

Symmetrical, according to the size of wide sleeves, Chui Hu will also have the size.

(three) square straight sleeves: opening at the side of the belt, extending horizontally and rectangular.

(four) narrow sleeves: in addition to the upper half of the head, half open, horizontal outward extension, a thin rectangle.

(five) Pipa sleeves: popular in the Ming Dynasty, a sleeve invented by Ming Tai Zu, the inside narrow and slowly expanding outward, like a pipa, cuffs are curved and sealed, and can be added with white sleeves.

Ten. Belts: mainly broadband and ribbon.

(1) thin strips are widely used. They can be used for clothing, trousers, clothing, and body.

(two) broadband is a popular waistband pattern in Chu state. It is usually used for deep clothes or deep cloak.

(three) there is also a waist like ornamentation similar to the width of the waist. It is called waist holding. It was fixed in ribbon and appeared in the Wei, Jin and southern and Northern Dynasties. It has been sporadically since then, such as Han Xizai's banquet.