The Second Chapter Of The Three-Dimensional Cutting Lesson: Basic Knowledge Of Stereoscopic Cutting.

A concept of stereoscopic cutting

The conceptual process of stereoscopic cutting is different from plane cutting, and it can not only draw the effect map first, but also can be formed on the basis of an abstract idea. Design Because one of the outstanding features of the stereotactic technology is the strong operability, that is, the original design can be adjusted at any time during the operation process. Therefore, the use of stereotactic technology is conducive to the perfection and enhancement of the design, and the fabric is directly hung on the human body or the human body, and is generated according to the natural form of the fabric. Design inspiration It's also the process of stereoscopic cutting.

　　 Two stereoscopic cutting tools and materials

The "1 person stage" is a necessary tool for modern stereotactic cutting, including standard table for clothing production, special personal table for tailoring, and nude stage for underwear research. People's stage is also divided into half body, stage, body and stage.

　　 Two Bead needle The stereotactic special pin is elongated and easy to pierce the cloth.

　　 3 grey cloth: solid cutting is often used as a substitute cloth to reduce cost. On the choice of substitute cloth, we should try to choose a substitute cloth with similar texture to ensure the integrity and stability of the final fabric.

　　 4 scissors: because of the uniqueness of the stereoscopic cutting operation, 9# or 10# scissors are usually used for stereotactic cutting.

　　 5 adhesive tape: for the determination of the expression line and styling line on the stage, it is usually replaced by a timely paste. The width of the adhesive tape is smaller and the maximum can not exceed 0.4 centimeters because it plays the role of marking.

　　 6 other: in addition to the above basic tools and materials, iron, pens, chalk, ruler, toothed rollers, carbon paper, kraft paper and so on are also necessary.

　　 Three preparation for stereoscopic cutting

Preparatory work must be done before cutting stereoscopic.

　　 1 human body model correction and collation. Generally speaking, most of the human models we use are standardized models for industrial production. If it is used for the stereoscopic cutting of garment production, it only needs to select the corresponding table size. If it is made for a single piece, it is necessary to adjust the existing person's desk accordingly, and make up for the deficiency, such as the size of the chest, the shoulder height, the thickness of the back, the fullness of the abdomen and the buttocks, etc., and adjust the human table as much as possible to the shape of the wearing object. In addition to the correction of the person's desk as a result of the difference in the shape of a specific object, it is also necessary to sort out some of the special styling styles, especially those that are more exaggerated.

　　 2 determine the basic line of the platform. The basic line is the alignment line and the reference line in the process of trimming. It is the basis for ensuring the stability of the yarn to the correct shape. Therefore, the establishment of the base line should be rigorous. The basic line of the platform consists of neck line, chest line, waist line, hip line, front and rear center line, Princess line, side seam, small shoulder line, and armhole line. The girth should be kept horizontal while the front and rear centerline should be vertical.

　　 3 the production of fake arms - the false arm is mainly used for the stereo cutting of sleeves, and the manufacture of fake arms mainly includes cotton, cotton or acrylic cotton, cardboard, needlework and other materials.

　　 Four technical principles of three-dimensional cutting

(1) Draping The direction of the fabric used is:

　　 The wire path of the cloth used for trimming must be corrected. Many grey fabrics often have the problem of skewness of the crossbar. Therefore, before the operation, the cloth should be ironed and ironed, so that the yarn will be leveled, and the cloth will be smoothed. At the same time, when the fabric is combined with the formal fabric, the consistency between the two yarns should be maintained, so as to ensure that the finished garments are consistent with the clothing styles on the stage.

　　 (two) cutting technology for three-dimensional cutting:

　　 The seams actually refer to the form of connection between sheets. The whole garment is formed by the connection of each garment piece by the seams. Therefore, the processing technology of the stitches is very important. Because the stereoscopic cutting is very intuitive, the treatment of the seams directly affects the operation and the overall shape of the garments, so the treatment technology of the seams is more prominent and practical.

　　 1 seam design: the stitch should be designed as far as possible at the junction of each surface of the human body surface, that is, the junction of the left and right surfaces of the female chest point, the princess line; the junction of the breast surface and the armpit surface; the dividing line of the front and the lower sides; the joint between the front and the lower surfaces; the shoulder line; the combination of the armpit surface and the back surface; the dividing line of the back side; the junction of the curved surfaces on both sides of the back center line; the back seam; the upper part of the waist surface and the joint of the lower surface, waistline. The stitch design at the corresponding joint points makes the outline of the garment clearer and consistent with the human form.

　　 2 the shape of the seam path: the shape of the seam path is very creative from the design point of view, that is, the design field is broad. However, the rationality of the structural design and the feasibility of making the process will be restricted. Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention to the shape of both sides of the seams as far as possible. Design Form a straight line or a slightly curved shape that is in line with the shape of the human body. At the same time, the shape of both sides should be the same or similar, so as to facilitate sewing.