General Rule Of Shoe Structure Design
Shoe structure design is referred to as shoe design.
technology
Work that combines art with perfection.
Shoes and boots
To be able to be a protective foot and suitable for daily life, it is necessary to follow the physiological structure of the feet and arrange the structure of the shoe on the shoe last, so that the sides can comfortably wrap the feet.
Designers should use the knowledge of art and footwear technology to arrange lines on the side.
decorate
And so on.
Among them, variant design is commonly used in shoe design, that is, on the basis of prototype products, a series of changes can be made to change the style and structure of shoes and increase variety.
The commonly used variant method is to change the shape of the last shape, change the structure, change the appearance and position of the components, and change the use of auxiliary parts.
First, the basic principles of style design for shoes and boots.
(1) the lines should be simple, bright and pleasing, but simple and not monotonous, bright and not exaggerated, pleasing but not farfetched.
1, consider mass production, save materials and labor.
2, the design of lines should not waste large pieces of shoe materials, but can not waste a lot of shoe materials due to a small amount of aesthetic effect.
(two) the specifications of the shoes are suitable for the market requirements, with special attention to the general foot type suitable for people in the sales area.
(three) the style and technology of design should conform to the economic principle of mass production.
1, the design should emphasize the economic function. The styling should pay attention to the psychology of choosing shoes suitable for the vast majority of people. It should be universal and reasonable.
2, the design strive to be simple and save materials.
Two. The design of shoe like structure should follow the rule of foot type.
There are many ways to design the sample structure, but no matter which method is adopted, the following technical requirements should be followed: the proportion of each part should be determined according to the rule of foot type.
If the position of the sample is not properly arranged, it will not only affect the appearance, but also affect the wearing.
For example: the back is too high, it will wear feet; too low and can not hang feet; the front Gang is too long, which affects the ankle flexion, the inside and outside sides are too high, will touch the ankle bone, cause the foot body discomfort (low waist shoes); the mouth door location is too small, not only difficult to wear out, but also easy to break when the last door is broken; the location of the door is too big to wear and has a loose feeling; to help the bread head too long, it will squeeze the toes; the front and back sides are inserted into the position, if not according to the foot type rule, when traveling, there will be some problems such as broken surface or broken skin.
Therefore, in the design, not only pursue beautiful appearance, but also follow the principles of foot type, comfort of wearing and the life of shoes.
Three, shoe line should cater for the last body head tone.
The last shape changes generally in the front part of the last, but the posterior part of the metatarsophalangeal joint is generally unchanged. In addition to the height last (because of the difference between the last and the lower waist last), the last head has the following basic shapes.
1, round head (thick and round);
2, small round head (with a circle smaller than round head);
3, pointed tip (cusp shaped head);
4, the big square head (Square last, the last face has two kinds of styles.
5, small square head (square corner is smaller head shape, last face has Leng no Leng two kinds of styles).
6, oblique head (head shape outward waist tilt);
7. Flat head
The geometric shape of the last body has their own unique keynote.
In line design, line processing should cater for the keynote so as to achieve a consistent effect.
For example:
1. round head: the tone of this shoe last type is circular arc, requiring the contour of the front part should be based on the arc line. For the wider circular arc type, the last face of the metatarsophalangeal part is relatively flat, so the contour line of the parts near this part can adopt the arc line, and it will produce a rich aesthetic feeling.
2, pointed head: this shoe last type tone is round and straight.
The contour of the front part is straight and vertical. It requires some circles to make the lines prominent.
3. Square head: the head shape of this shoe last is square and straight, so the outline line of the shoe should be straight from the front of the shoe last.
For example, the upper Baotou line, the outline of the door and the contour of the front shoe cover are ideal for straight lines.
4. Flat head: this type of shoe last is named because it is thin and thin, so the degree of arc in the keynote is less, and the contour line of the front part is straight and square.
As mentioned above, the characteristics of shoe last and vamp style must be harmonious.
The bottom curve of a shoe last must also be suitable for that shoe type. However, a shoe last can allow considerable changes in the vamp and retain its original characteristics.
Four, shoe design should consider material and technology.
There are many kinds of materials and methods of manufacture for shoes, but the design of every product must consider the material and manufacturing process, because the performance, characteristics and elongation of various materials are different, especially when the upper side of the shoe is turned into a shoe shaped surface, and the upper part of the upper shoe includes the upper thickness of the upper, plus the main middle, the inner Baotou, the sole of the sole, and the semi insole.
As a result, the positions of the parts are obviously shifted. They are not the size of the original design, so the size of the upper is not equal to the size of the shoe. The actual size of the shoe is larger than the size of the upper.
In order to ensure the size of the parts required for the shoes, we should pay attention to all kinds of different materials in the design of the sample while the shifting and changing rules in the process of stretching must be dealt with in some parts for proper adjustment and control.
The parts of each part should be smaller than the actual size of the shoes 2mm - 4mm, which can make the design size match the shoe size.
Five, line and fat and thin feeling
Shoes should be fat and thin. This is because the script is fat and thin, but from appearance, people always want to be thin and good-looking.
For the thinner shoes, the upper part should be arranged in a less attractive way.
And the lines can be bent as much as possible, which will give people a sense of fullness.
For the more fat shoes, contrary to the thin shoes, it requires the upper part of the shoe to be arranged as much as possible. The contour lines of the parts should be straight and good, and the parts should be arranged in the rear, which will make people feel thin.
Six. Data of shoe control points and lines.
Previously mentioned control points and control line size data are the basic size ratio.
For those shoes that are less affected by popular factors, such as the traditional inner ear type (three head shoes), this size ratio is applicable.
But for highly popular styles, the style is different.
There will be some changes in its size.
In such a situation, we should grasp the proportion as a whole.
Among the many shoes, some shoes can be kept for years. Why is there such a situation? Of course, this is related to men's more conservative character, but it is also undeniable that these shoes must have their basic advantages, which can withstand the test of the times and never be eliminated.
For example, the traditional inner ear shoes. From the point of view of the protection foot, it is the most complete design in theory. The appearance is very gentlemanly. The design of each part (Baotou, middle and back) can not only make full use of leather, but also be suitable for stretching work.
This example may help readers understand the key points of the design of good shoes.
Seven, general rule of low shoe design
1, the height of the back and back heels depends on the position of the ankles and the basic requirements for the shoes to be firmly fastened.
2, the upper lip can not be too high, so as not to affect the ankle joint activities.
3, the front of the front should not be too long, so that the foot can not penetrate easily, but it should not be too low. Otherwise, the metatarsophalangeal line generated by walking will destroy the positive appearance of the shoe.
4, the length of the outsourced header should not be too long to prevent walking and grinding to the instep.
However, these requirements are not the only factors that regulate the size of shoes. In fact, certain proportions of shoes, especially the front parts of shoes, are often subject to appropriate changes.
For example, the front half of the inner ear shoe without Baotou is about 5mm shorter than that of Baotou.
The front length of low price shoes is shorter than that of high price shoes. The reason is very simple.
Eight. General rule of short boots design
The first thing to pay attention to is the relationship between the foot and the lower leg, the boot and foot should be at right angles, but the angle will change as the heel height increases.
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Nine. General rules for high boots design
High boots have two important points to note:
1. The camber along the front of the boot.
2. The width of the boot barrel at the wrist.
The inclination along the front of the boot is directly proportional to the height of the heel.
The front of the boot can be at right angles to the coordinate line.
If the heel is high heel, the front of the boot should be tilted forward.
Without a zipper's high boots, the boot's position should be wider than that of a zipper or tie. Its width should at least allow feet to penetrate easily, and the width and width of the boot should be at least the same as that of the boot.
Ten. The general rules for designing sandals
1. pay attention to the rule of foot type.
The design of sandals must grasp the rules of foot type, such as calcaneus, internal and external ankles, big toe and small toe ends.
2. master the size and location of the anterior empty opening.
If the front openings of all air sandals are too small, they will wrap all the toes. When walking, the thumb will be uncomfortable and unattractive when walking, but if the toes are exposed too much, it will make the foot move forward when walking, leading to the surface breaking of the front gap or the scratch of the outer skin of the phalanges.
Eleven. General rules for the design of women's shallow shoes
Women's shallow shoes have many shapes and shapes, such as large circles, middle round openings, small round openings, slanting openings, sharp points and so on.
These different gates are linked to the last type of head type: round head, round and round door.
Pointed top type with elliptical door, pointed door or oblique door.
The small square top type usually has a square door or a decorative strip on the door.
Twelve. General rules for shoe design
There are many kinds of enclosing shoes, but most of the front shoe covers are arranged near the last corner of the shoe last. The shape of the front cover should be in line with the shape of the last shape of the shoe last (or vice versa). The shape of the front cover is basically based on the last type.
The shoe covers include: front cover, front ring, front side, ridge, wrinkle, ridge and ridge.
All of the above fancy patterns are of one kind, but they should be distinguished from the design samples.
For example, the arc of the front cover can not be too large. The cover is usually placed on the 2mm line of the last corner of the shoe last. If a small amount of advance is made, the shoe cover will fall off.
Thirteen. General rules for design of ear shoes
There are many kinds of shoes, which can be changed according to the needs of styles.
Shoes with low leather shoes are usually set at one to six.
In the shoe upper design, we should properly use the length and shape of the shoe ears to arrange the number of shoe eyes.
Some styles in order to highlight the narrow front, can be used 2 to 3 shoes eye ears, shoes ears front oblique.
In this way, the front panel can be displayed in an intuitive way.
The shoe ear is the main component of the lacing shoes, and its shape is round, rectangular, oblique and so on.
But the design of the shoe ears should correspond to the front shoe cover or the front style and the last type.
Fourteen. The general rule of Front Dress fancy settings
The layout of front and back sides with asymmetrical internal and external waist should be put on the outside side, because the outside slope is small and relatively flat, which is convenient for arranging various patterns and keeping beautiful appearance.
Fifteen. Matching the vamp with the sole.
The style and shape of the side and the bottom should be well matched.
For example, some high-end sewing double bottom shoes, in order to achieve lightweight and comfortable, fine workmanship requirements, can not do all double seam welt, instead of half section welt or decorative border.
Because the stitches are more cumbersome, and the half edge or decorative border can still achieve the effect of the double bottom of the general stitch, and it is lighter and comfortable.
For example, some big round head or high head last type, the shoe must be strong in shape. In the design of the bottom, the thick bottom seam, the strip and the ridge should be used.
Women can put a thick cork or EvA in the middle of the front palm to make the bottom look firm.
However, the shoe is not heavy. In the shoe heel configuration, it can also use a variety of styles, such as rolls, heels and bags.
In short, designers must be familiar with various craft combinations so as to make the shape of the whole leather shoes unified and harmonious.
Sixteen, general rules for design of old, green and children's shoes
1. leather shoes for young people
Young people are more active in their thoughts, like all kinds of fashionable styles, and their styles are new, beautiful and practical.
Color and last shape should be diversified.
It can be bold to innovate with reference to foreign samples or pictures.
For example, high heels are suitable for formal occasions.
It can embody the beauty of women's lines. When designing, it should not only conform to the rule of feet, but also pay attention to artistry.
Flower knot design should have a three-dimensional sense.
2. leather shoes for the elderly
The style is simple, generous, comfortable and convenient to wear.
The last shape should not be too narrow, and it should be low and peaceful.
Colour and lustre should be chosen too generously and steadily.
We can design some comfortable, comfortable and comfortable tongue type (boat) leather shoes and some traditional leather shoes.
3. children's leather shoes
The design requirements of children's shoes are basically reference to men's and women's leather shoes.
Because children are not yet adults, the body is in its developing stage, and the plantar circumference of infants and young children is more fat.
When designing, we can not simply pursue beauty, but choose the narrow last shape, which will affect the development of children's feet, and the bones of infants and young children are more tender.
You can design more shoes with high waisted waist to protect the growth of ankles inside and outside.
Young girls are generally not suitable to wear half high heels. When wearing half high heels, they will exert more stress on their foreheads, which will cause the relaxation of the bottom ligament of children's forefoot and cause the front pverse arch to collapse.
Thus affecting the collapse of internal and external arch, and gradually forming a flat foot.
In designing baby and children's shoes, the styles should be fresh and lively, and the colors should be bright and pleasing.
For big children and Chinese children's shoes, the fastness and structure of the shoes should be taken into consideration. Some styles can be slightly modified by reference to men's and women's leather shoes, but the color of the children's shoes can be a little more colorful.
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