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    A Italy Suit That Everyone Loves To Cultivate Himself.

    2011/4/21 10:01:00 88

    Self Cultivation Italy Suit

    In fact, when choosing a suit, smart men always choose to tailor their own tailored features rather than to find clothes that can be found on clothes hangers.

    From the history of the development of men's suits, there are only three of the most classic clipping patterns.

    The other versions are all made by these three changes.


    A good grave with bags and suits


    At the end of the nineteenth Century, Sack was popular in the United States. It was a lightweight, short waist suit.

    For now, this edition is of no value: no structure or fit, neither shoulder pads, waist folds nor waist lines, just like a cloth pocket hanging on the shoulders.

    This is the first batch of tailored men's tailoring styles in the history of clothing. The original intention of the design is to enable everyone to wear them.

    Think carefully, what a horrible reason it is.

    Matching the hypertrophy trunk, this design usually has an excepted wide cuff.


    Originally this style was launched by Brooks Brothers, an old suit company, and was popular in Ivy League in 1920s.

    However, this is only a suit for college students. Once these people enter the society, they need to get another tailored suit.

    During World War II, this suit flowed into the middle aged men's market around the world, which made the men in 1950s look like square pockets.


    In the American movie "The Man in the Grey Flannel Suit" is full of this "cloth bag suit", which makes the whole movie look sleepy.

    Nowadays, if you want to look like you have no characteristics and are not noticed in the crowd, you can choose this tailored suit.

    By the way, this pair of trousers is straight pants with flat trousers. It looks like a mobile mailbox or trash can.


    In fact, this "cloth bag suit" is almost extinct. Even the "Brooks Brothers" company itself refuses to produce this suit.

    For men, the other two suits: Italy Continental suit and Drape suit will be a good choice.

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    A Italy suit that everyone loves to cultivate himself.


    In fact, you will hear the word "European style" on many different suits. This may be the most popular version of the suit, but in a strict sense, only a close fitting, no fork, square pagoda shoulder, extreme stress on structure and a clean cut of the front chest can be called "European style".

    This kind of tailoring is also known as "Lo Stile Italiano" in Italy, because it was invented by Rome tailor, because it was popular in Europe for a time.

    Usually, this type of suit can not be too long, the first button is also slightly higher, the collar and the waist line are very high, and the hem design is mainly centered on the waist.

    On the whole, Italy's European suit is "compact".


    A fashion critic called this tailoring "good shape" because it had no wrinkles and simple, clean lines.

    Director Fellini (Fellini) loves this suit version for ten minutes, and the hero in his movies usually wears this suit, which can be seen in the 1960s classic movie La Dolce Vita.


    Nowadays, the famous brand of men's wear is Brioni from Rome.

    This brand designed menswear is famous for its wide shoulders and its tailored waist line.

    Nowadays, the most convenient choice for Chinese men is Tom Ford's latest menswear tailor store in Shanghai.

    These two brands are also James Bond's suit brand in the movie "007" series.


    In addition, there are several suits that are similar to British style.

    One of them is a horse riding jacket (Hacking) with two sides of the hem, a sloping pocket and a military uniform (Military) evolved from the British army of Edward.

    These two kinds of tailoring are based on the principle of simplicity and close fitting, but they are longer and wider than the European suit in Italy.

    Among them, the horse riding coat looks more angular, the hem is wider and the fork is higher; and the military coat looks even more stiff. Some people say that this is to support the medal full of the chest, and the lines are more round.

    This is the most popular style of suit in London's most famous Savile Row.

    Most of the tailors on this road will change with this "European version" basic cut.

    But the most famous knights coat is Huntsman, the most famous and expensive Western-style clothes shop in the street.

    And the military uniform is the best of the two "Dege" and "Gieves&Hawkes" stores.

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    The British tailor's glory


    The basic version of the last suit is the "British shoulder padded suit".

    As the name suggests, this is the real British traditional suit version.

    This cut began in 1920s and was improved by the special tailor Frederick Scholte of Duke of Windsor in 1930s.

    Therefore, a cloth is specially added to the chest and shoulders, so it is called "shoulder padded suit".


    This type of version is softer than the European style suit and does not outline the shape of a triangular form.

    There is a close up design at the waist, and tighten the buttocks to match the lines of the body.

    At the same time, the shoulders are sagging, but because of their thin shoulder pads, they are quite natural.

    In general, it does not emphasize the modification of body shape as European style suits do.

    More importantly, the British shoulder padded suit has more than 2.5 centimeters of cloth in the chest and shoulders, which makes the front chest feel full, but the lines in the waist and hips are gathered again to make men look masculine and strong.

    At the same time, it is more relaxed and comfortable, and it is more free to move.


    The best spokesman for the British shoulder padded suit is the British royal family, formerly the crown prince of Charles. Now it is William and Harry.

    Charles thinks that the best form of this suit is double row suit, so all his suits are double breasted "British shoulder pads".

    Prince William clearly inherited his father's tradition, and carefully observed the traces of cloth on the front and shoulder of his suit.

    At the same time, Prince William had a very high demand for suits. It was said that every time he tried fitting in a tailor's shop, he would do some violent movements, and then suddenly stopped to see whether the collar of the tailored suit was still on his thin neck.


    In London's most famous "Anderson&Sheppard" shop, and the United States "Alan Flusser" shop, you can find this most traditional English version.

    In the movie Michael (Douglas Street), Wall Street Wall Street, the leading junk bond king Gekko will wear this type of suit on different occasions.


    Just like the Italy version can be found in the UK, it can also find an improved version in Italy.

    In the southern part of Italy (Naples), the world's best Western-style tailors gather the shoulder pads of the shoulders to be smaller and close to the natural droop of the human body, and raise the waist line to create a more intimate and modified body effect. (Naples)


    In fact, most of the ready-made clothes that we can buy in shopping malls are mixed versions of American cloth bags and British shoulder padded suits.

    This type of cloth keeps the characteristics of most people wearing cloth bags, and a little bit of cloth will make the suit less mediocre.

    As for the classic "Italy European style" and "British shoulder pads", they can never be bought in clothing stores.

    For everyone, the correct version will make people comfortable, and will not be unshapen or sloppy. It seems to be practical but not rigid and serious.

    After all, the right tailoring allows your suit to wear for decades. The wrong tailoring will make your suit in the wardrobe.


     

     

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