The Difference Between Chinese Suit And Foreign Suit

China

Newspaper reporter:

I went to Europe last month to conduct a more comprehensive survey of the clothing market in Paris, Milan, Rome, Florence, Cologne and Munich. I also visited the "d'air" international dress exhibition, which was introduced for the first time this year.

I was the first designer for 19 months in the Chuang Ji group, and I know well about the technology of Wenzhou, Ningbo suits and Hangzhou women's wear. I also taught in the university the printing and craft course of suits, and I thought "what is a good suit?"

This problem has a special and meaningful perspective and its evaluation criteria.

First of all, I think domestic suits (including

It has been quite good in design and technology, but the gap with developed countries, cities and brands in foreign countries is "accumulative" and "institutional and institutional".

How do you say that?

You think, the so-called "suit", of course, comes from the West. The history of people doing suits is only one hundred or two hundred years after industrialization. Many technical elements and technical experience must be accumulated over time.

It is not simply that we buy several large suits of people's homes, and then dissecting and copying them can be consistent with international standards.

I very much doubt that "our country's suit production technology and product quality control capability basically reached the advanced level of foreign countries".

If we are not familiar with foreign standards, processes and quality management methods and means, then we are not qualified to say "basically reached the advanced level of foreign countries"?!

We should know that the international standard of dressing is graded, and in Zheng Yonggang's words, the standard of our suit is three grade standard.

Although we have more advanced equipment, the technological process of suit has both "international standard" and "on-site capability" that has accumulated over a long period of time to deal with the technological difficulties brought about by all kinds of new, new materials and new lifestyles in real time.

In fact, the latter is the most important, because we lack a large number of experienced field craft designers, craftsmen and technicians.

The design of foreign modern brands and modern casual suits is about lifestyle design, not just style and process design.

I took nearly 2000 digital photographs during my inspection. In their windows and exhibitions, we can often see that the display of the clothes itself is very casual, but the requirements for environment, props, lighting and cultural atmosphere are very high. The layout effect is "casual, relaxed, fashionable, cordial and quality".

The specific design is about fabric, color, detail and collocation.

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In addition, the problem of "system and mechanism" mentioned before, in fact, is related to the fact that the whole "mechanism" of our suit production and sale is far from mature, and the "machine system" that can not be seen in the process of long-term competition, elimination and integration formed by the "system" is the goal we must strive for and achieve.

It takes time.

It is said that the problem of "inventory" that every domestic enterprise and brand is headache is, of course, the problem of marketability and alignment of products. I think this is a problem of "system and mechanism".

For example, when the clothing industry in foreign countries goes through the "reduction period" of two seasons and one month each year, you have to "reduce the price" (domestic discount), it must be in the specified time period, otherwise it is illegal and illegal.

This has formed a production, sale and disposal and has laws to follow.

The laws of market movement, dynamism and "mechanism".

And we always "discount", or even rely on the "discount" to maintain the turnover mode of operation, is still in the low-level stage of the clothing market movement.

What is more, the "discount" is used as a cover to make consumers mistaken for "cheap"!

Again, in the shortcomings of our clothing production and sales, "Chengxin" is a serious problem.

Now, in September 3rd, the AQSIQ reported that the content of the fabric and lining material is not consistent with the indicated value.

From the perspective of national mandatory standards for clothing production and sales, the better companies are "not paying attention". The essence of some enterprises and brands is "misleading", or even "deceiving" consumers.

Moreover, another problem in the report is that "the peel strength of the adhesive lining is not up to the standard".

This comes down to the level of technology, technology and personnel mentioned above.

The general requirement of Chinese adhesive lining is that there is a strong "peel strength" in the relationship between bonded fabrics. In fact, if a strong "peel strength" is really strong, the adhesion molecules will be embedded in the fabric at the same depth, instead of "soft and elastic" feel, that is to say, it destroys the inherent style of the fabric, and the "crisp and quite peeling strength" feel, that is to say, it destroys.

The inherent style, which is a contradiction between "crisp, quite peeling strength" and "soft and elastic", is related to the lining with what is on the one hand. On the other hand, it is related to the requirements of products and the scientificity of experiments.

As far as I know, the requirement of foreign suits for fusible liners is first of all not to destroy the style of fabrics, and then is the requirement of "peeling strength".

Another function of fusible interlining is how durable is the support for garment modeling?

This is a very high quality requirement for the adhesive lining itself.

I remember the end of a seminar in the whole country. I was waiting at the airport with Li Chaode, Yuan Ze and Bao Mingxin. I saw a lady wearing a beige woolen coat. It was very cool. When she turned around, I said to everyone, from the style of this dress, it must be a big European card. Why do you think so?

I said: first, the back shape is obviously X type, and Chinese women's dresses don't dare to take such a waist. Two, this dress must have been washed several times, and can "support" such a wide shoulder shape. The lining and process are not the same, so the affirmative European brand!

It happened that miss Li Chaode knew this, and said, miss X, Professor Zhang wants to know the brand of your clothes.

The young lady opened his clothes and said, "it's a Armani brand. I bought it in Italy the year before last."

In addition, in regard to the accurate use of the "logo" and the honest and scientific test and use of adhesive liners, I will appeal to and advocate a scientific concept that is used from the West in the clothing industry, that is, "academic ethics".

Although we can examine and learn about the bonding test of fabrics and adhesive linings, we can get people's test standards and buy the most advanced equipment, all the surface and form, we can imitate the same.

What I want to say is that what we most want to learn is the "technological spirit" that we can not see, the technological and technological pursuit, and the "technological morality" and "technical conscience" that we have with us.

Of course, abroad.

No problem, but there is a big gap between Chinese suits and foreign suits in general, especially in terms of culture and philosophy. To fill this gap is a long-term task for us. This requires the concerted efforts of enterprises and relevant departments of the state to reach the goal gradually.

In addition, at this stage, we should pay special attention to and emphasize the "integrity" problem of enterprises and businesses. If this problem is gradually valued and achieved, then this is a promising industry, brand and people.

A good suit is more than appearance. The most important quality is what consumers can't see, including hard technology, equipment and soft attitude and spirit.