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2011/6/3 13:22:00 57

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Advanced Custom Clothes Madame Gres Oblique Cutting Method.

Madame Gres unauthorized use

Oblique cutting method

Her creative style comes from her love for sculpture.

She saw all the fabrics as stone sculptures and made costumes as unique works of art.

The name of Madame Gres has rarely been mentioned today.

Fashion jacket

The Frenchman who has eternal love still remembers her.

The Museum of art in Paris presented her with an exhibition.

Madame Gres

More than 80 works were created from the early days of creation to the period of retreat in 1980s.

There is a semi finished product in the exhibits, and a bead pin with a fixed fold is still on the coarse white cloth. Only half of the dress is loosely laid on the mold frame, like a hidden place with a high standard of uniform.

Madame Gres is one of the leading French uniforms. She follows the oblique cutting method of Madeleine Vionnet, and brings a new classicism breeze to the world of high ranking uniform.

Born in 1903, her name is Germaine Emilie Krebs. Her ideal was to be a sculptor or a ballerina.

Her style of creation stems from her love for sculpture. She hates sewing by sewing needles. She can hardly see the traces of efficient and impatient production in her clothes.

She draped the fabric on the model and sewed it directly. The wrinkles were all finished by hand. The process was like a block line of a sculptor skilled in controlling the stone.

I once said, "I want to be a sculptor. I regard all the fabrics as stones, and I want to carve them carefully.

Mousika, one of her early inspirations, was the first ballet goddess Duncan to wear barefoot dances on the stage wearing Greek dress.

One can see her pursuit of aesthetic sense of dress. Her slanting dress and chiffon wrinkle skirt are all Greek with its beauty. When dancing, it is as thin as a cicada dress. It can make the light cover the body softly, but it still has a static line like a statue.

In 1932, she started her design from a bonnet.

Her first independent studio was in 1934, called Alix.

The location of the old fashion house is now a large gathering of Dolce &Gabanna.

For the first time, Alix emerged as a drama designer for French modern dramatist and novelist Jean Giraudoux.

Her attitude towards making costumes as a unique artwork has always been maintained by her, which has led to little knowledge of later generations.

Nowadays, the fashion houses that are still widely known are almost made up of garment making industry to keep pace with the times. However, she is against her way of life, and she always resists clothes. She thinks that making clothes is the degeneration of senior uniform designers.

After the retreat of Madeleine Vionnet, the name of Madame Gres quickly became the representative of oblique cutting.

She made a beautiful evening dress with silk chiffon. She created many kinds of blood signs without any uniform.

In 1935, she used the "Chinese Princess Turandot" in "one thousand and one days" as an inspiration to design evening dress.

Before World War II, celebrities came in, including Princess Mathilda, Princess Duchess of Windsor and princesses of the Bourbon Dynasty in Parma.

At the peak, she also made clothes for the greatest sexy actress Marlene Dietrich in twentieth Century. Greta Garbo and Vivien Leigh were also on her customer list.

Her graceful handling of fabrics attracted a large number of self interested guests, one of whom even customised the same design 7 times.

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Most of the senior uniform designers who design costumes for the aristocracy of the palace are mostly cautious and low-key people.

Madame Gres's character is very suitable for her career. She began to design in the name of Gres in 1942. Actually Gres was originally the signature of her Russian painter husband in painting.

In 1937, when the two men got married, their husbands went to French Polynesia and no longer came back. This short marriage was no longer known.

Her private life was very lonely, and almost all her energy was invested in picking fabrics that aroused her passion and creative imagination.

The clothes she made were magnificent, but she was plain and low-key. In the portrait, she wore a white shirt and a black half skirt. She held hands and looked down at a place. If she saw how the designers of later generations could show themselves as stars, they would sigh.

Madame Gres's obsession with advanced uniforms has never changed. She closed the fashion house briefly during the German occupation of Paris in 1943.

At that time, even though fabrics were also restricted, customers fled.

But half a year later, she reopened and finished her first series of comeback with red, white and blue French flags.

She even hung huge red, white and blue markers on the outside of the first floor of her own fashion house, and ordered a large number of silk knitted fabrics and chiffon yarns from the fabric traders, as if in this gesture: the superior dignity of the superior uniform is just as unconquered as that of Paris.

Madame Gres had been working until 1988.

Even at the age of more than 70, she was still choosing fabrics to dress for the show.

Her death was published only a year after her death. Her daughter said that the secret way was to protect everything that mother tried to do, just like protecting a secret of love.

However, the name of Madame Gres did not disappear completely after its death. Japanese artist and fashion designer Koji Tatsuno moved the name back to the fashion world in 1978.

The Frenchman's design soul was extended by the Japanese before the 1998 brand was stopped, and although the style was not the same, the soul was still the gentle fold of a cicada - like veil and a bird's wing.

Yohji Yamamoto also designed an irregular Greek grey cotton dress in the 2005 spring and summer fashion series inspired by Madame Gres.

This spring and summer can be seen as a time of full regression of the spirit of Madame Gres. Lanvin uses blowers to blow up the slanting gauze dress on the model.

The movie "black swan" lets classical fresh and beautiful sweep the fashion circle. Chloe also wants to use the New York dancers chief dancer Janie Taylor to interpret the silky silk dress in spring and summer series.

The evolution of style is a long road, but on this road, the "divine" high quality custom clothes, though far away, have never really left.