Five Major Steps To Uncover The Mystery Of The Birth Of Advanced Custom Garments

Let's take the example of the Freja Beha Erichsen, the White Embroidered netting jacket and the strapless tuxedo with numerous applause.

It is mainly embroidered with pearls and silver sequins, and the Lesage embroidery workshop takes 900 hours to complete by hand.

Step one: design draft and embryo cloth version.

When Carle Lagrange's brain was born with a wonderful design idea, he first outlined the outline of the garment with a pen, and noted the details that he wanted to pay attention to.

Later, the manuscript was handed over to Premi re D Atelier.

What is chief tailor?

All the CHANEL advanced custom clothes were made elaborately in three workshops on 31 Kang Peng street, Paris.

Among them, two are called "Flou", each of them has 25 tailors, making light dresses and evening gowns with light silk, gauze, dry yarn, crepe and chiffon.

The third one is "Tailleur" (French meaning "customization").

There are 40 experts who deal with thicker fabrics. They are good at tailoring Chanel classic twill, leather, wool suit, coat, trousers, skirt and coat.

Each workshop is led by a Premi re D atelier, whose main responsibility is to ensure that the quality of her work is perfect.

2 times a year, each workshop will employ more than 20 tailors in order to cope with the huge workload for the high-level uniformed conference.

Subsequently, the chief tailor made a printed version of the thin linen germ cloth on wooden wooden blocks according to the design draft, and the appearance of the bottom of the garment was beginning to show.

The second step: Lesage embroidery workshop, began embroidery.

All the embroidery designs in advanced customization are approved by Chanel advanced custom service studio. According to the tailors provided by the advanced tailoring studio, the design details are outlined on the sulfuric acid paper.

Later, the embroidery Department stretched the fabric on the embroidery frame, and stitched the pearls and silver sequins on the cut fabric with the French traditional LUNEVILLE embroidery technology.

Every tiny square is packed with beads, which is a real test of Kungfu.

When it is finished, all the embroidery pieces will be sent to the Chanel advanced garment studio for the next step.

The third step: sewing together.

In this step, the red thread has been sewn up in advance on the embroidery piece to mark the seam accurately.

Subsequently, experienced tailors spliced the skirts and coats of the coats.

The fourth step: trial loading.

The final try was on Carle's studio at the top of the Kang Peng main store, and Carle Lagrange, the tailor made studio and the chief tailor came to the scene.

Many times, Carle would choose to take this step before the conference, so every year before the press conference, Lesage's teachers were used to working all night to prepare for the second day event.

In this process, the made dress will be worn to the wooden man's model to check the scale effect from time to time.

Do not belittle this process, you know that embroidering beads on the tulle already has a lot of weight. You must constantly check to ensure the balance of the entire garment.

Even though there is no difference between them, it is such a tiny part of advanced customization.

The fifth step: background and press conference

Backstage, CHANEL makeup director Peter Philips is painting makeup for models, and a gorgeous event is about to start.

And the beautiful clothes on their bodies are art works that have gone through hundreds of hours of artificial production. No wonder they are extremely excited.

At this point, a high quality custom garment is completely completed.

After the display, if the customer needs to customize, the tailor will adjust the production according to the customer's own stature and actual needs.