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    On Those Crazy Chinese People Who Buy "Creativity"!

    2011/7/16 15:17:00 34

    "Creative" Chinese!

    Ordinary consumers may not have realized that they bought them in a department store.

    clothing

    But who knows, some famous designers, as members of the French High Fashion Association, have begun signing cooperation agreements with Chinese fashion companies.

    They offer advice for Chinese brands and even fashion designs.

    This is a new way for foreign designers to enter the Chinese market, and it is also the first step for Chinese brands to move towards the international arena.


    Designer Lutz has his own brand in Paris. Since 2002, he has been a member of the French High Fashion Association.

    His design is in Maria Luisa, London, Paris.

    Feathers& Matches

    Shops in Berlin, AndreasMurkudis, Dantone in Milan and I.T in Hongkong are all popular.


    In addition to launching his own series of two seasons every year, he also has long-term cooperation with MaxMara, MUJI and other brands.

    He recently signed a two-year contract with the winner's clothing in Shenzhen. In the past year, Lutz has been a successful consultant for the brand in the two quarter as the art consultant of the Nexy Co. brand.


    "China is a very important market."

    Lutz partner David Ballu said, "compared with MaxMara and MUJI, we feel that cooperation in China is more interesting."


    Coincidentally, designer RichardRen y, whose name is listed on the Paris high fashion week's release schedule, has just established a long-term cooperation intention with Taiwan brand Xia Ti Chen.

    The cooperation between the two sides began in the fashion week of Paris.

    In the 09 spring and summer series released by Xia Zi Chen, Ren Yi worked as a stylist and had the first collaboration with design director Wang Chen Caixia.

    "I think the brand is well designed.

    They wanted to seek more advice from European designers, and I accepted.

    Ren e

    Say.


    Ordinary consumers may not be aware of who they bought from department stores, but European designers and Chinese fashion companies are no longer unique.

    From October 19th to October 21, the joint exhibition of "international designers" organized by the French High Fashion Association was held at the Pudong exhibition hall in Shanghai. Most of the 10 exhibitors were members of the French Fashion Association, most of which had various forms of cooperation with Chinese enterprises, partly to import their products into China's circulation channels, and some of them were artistic advisors or design directors of a Chinese brand, and the rest had cooperative intentions.


    These designers prefer China to India, which is also invited to Brazil.


    "In this multipolar world, there is no 100%" French "or" China ".

    Didier Grumbach, chairman of the French Fashion Association, said: "Chinese companies working with the international designers participating in the exhibition are very forward-looking and have broken through the traditional self-sufficiency mode in the domestic market."

      


    For abroad

    Designer

    Check


    In the early 1950s, shortly after the end of World War II, the French High Fashion Association took the first batch of designers to visit the United States.

    At that time, the current situation in the United States was far better than that in Europe, and the mature garment industry had already appeared.

    Designers visited local shops and factories, and they found that they could also send their designs to large factories in the us to achieve mass production.


    In 1980s, Valentino, Jean PaulGaultier and other brands began to seek cooperation opportunities in Japan.

    The way they use is brand authorized operation, and the authorized products are sold only in Japan.

    In China, Pierre Cardin has also developed the local market in this way.


    "The situation in China today is very similar to that in the United States of America in 1950s and Japan in 1980s."

    Grumbach said, "but the situation facing China is different from the past."

    China's export of European textile quotas has been abolished and the market has been fully internationalized. Authorized operation and tariff policy are meaningless for today's Chinese designers.

    "China's market is very large, and Chinese enterprises want not to export, so these designers come to give them ideas so that they can do better in their domestic market."

    Grumbach said.


    The efforts made by the French High Fashion Association in its exchange with China can be traced back to 10 years ago. There were fashion exchange talks and exchange students between the two countries. Apart from design, they also involved Fashion Management.

    Today, Zhao Qian, a consultant in Chinese affairs of the French High Fashion Association, is the 99 graduate of Fashion Management Major in the guild. It is also an important role in promoting the cooperation process between international designers and Chinese enterprises.


    "We have made 10 years of hard work, but I have recently discovered that everything is just beginning."

    Before GuyLaroche's 09 spring summer series in Paris, Zhao Qian told reporters.

    Guy Laroche, the art director of Marcel Marohglu, has been appointed as the artistic director of a Chinese garment enterprise.

    "Most of the time before, what we have done is only a driving force, and we have not seen concrete results.

    And in recent years, there will be two designers and Chinese enterprises in a year to establish cooperation, and the desire for close proximity is very strong.

    Zhao Qian said.


    At this point, the founder of KB Boloni home decoration group and CEO Cai Ming gave proof.

    "Now many enterprises complain that there is no talent, but talent will not come out at once.

    As long as companies are willing to pay the bill, they can find good designers abroad.

    He said so at the October 19th China Fashion and creative summit.


    Slow intervention


    Every season, Lutz will finish the material selection of NexyCo. in Paris.

    Design

    But what he did was actually just an outline. He decided on the theme of the new season, set out a list, decided the main design elements, and left the rest of the work to the Chinese design team to complete.

    "The degree of freedom of the Chinese side is also very high. They can do many germinal designs."

    DavidBallu said, "I think they have a high understanding and superb technology."


    At the beginning of the cooperation, the French fashion association did not encourage foreign designers to deeply intervene in the operation of Chinese enterprises.

    "We strongly disagree with foreign designers as design directors at the very beginning."

    Zhao Qian said, "we suggest that they can act as design consultants and art advisers at the very beginning, and the degree of intervention can be deeper and deeper through the quarter to quarter cooperation."


    "Chinese enterprises are not the same as elsewhere, and so are Chinese."

    Ballu said, "we found that in China, designers can try richer colors - red, green, and sparkling colors.

    In Europe, people tend to have dark blue, black, gray and cream colors.

    Chinese people are also different from Europeans in their choice of fabrics. Europeans like classic fabrics, but Asians can accept soft, flashing, high-tech fabrics.

    Generally speaking, Chinese tastes are younger, but sleeveless and low breast designs will encounter resistance here.


    Grumbach said that foreign designers need to understand the existing market in China, while designing consultants for Chinese brands is only the first step of cooperation. After a few years, the two sides may develop deeper cooperative relations, for example, enterprises will act as domestic agents for designer brands.


    "In Japan in 1980s, licensed products were sold only in Japan, but at present, designers who cooperate with Chinese enterprises are facing global sales.

    The trip to China led them to see a global market. Many things - cutting and designing are standardized, designed in Paris, produced in Shanghai, and the Internet makes everything possible.

    Grumbach said.


    The cooperation between Richard Ren and Xia Ti Chen is an example.

    Ren as the stylist for the first time to participate in the release of Xia Ting Chen's fashion, at the beginning of communication with Wang Chen Caixia is not smooth, but through a period of running in, not only the conference has been successful, the two sides have also reached a further cooperation plan.

    In the next work, Ren will advise his design proposals earlier and more as a consultant to help him get recognition in Paris.


    From the exhibition of "cell" exhibition, we can see the clue of this form of cooperation.

    Each designer brings only three or five pieces of his design to Shanghai instead of copying all the whole season's series as in previous years.

    Each garment contains a series of enterprises. Enterprises can see a lot of them from behind an idea, so there is room for growth and choice.

    As Grumbach said, "it is easier to reduce what is not needed in a series than to find what is needed."


    So far, several companies that cooperate with foreign designers have been cautious about publicity and unwilling to accept visits.

    Zhao Qian believes that the reason for their cooperation is not media propaganda, but design.

    "They feel that they still need to accumulate until they have enough running in to break out.

    This is a very pragmatic strategy. "

    She said.


      

    New wave of Chinese design


    If there was a wave of designers in the fashion industry of China in 1990s, the wave of the second wave of designers has now been raised.

    The difference is that the industry in 1990s is the main body of the designer, and today, after the hardware, management, and sales of the enterprise have a certain basis, the focus is back to the product.


    The Chinese fashion design creativity competition with the "cell" exhibition has attracted the attention of foreign designers coming to the exhibition.

    "Did you see the award ceremony last night?

    I think they are very imaginative. "

    Ballu told reporters.

    This competition has awarded the 123 prize, but as the director of the contractor, Zhao Qian revealed that the concept of award has not been hyped this year and will be abolished next year.

    The reason is that the positioning of this competition is not competitive, but emphasizes the strength of the group.

    "I don't think designers should regard themselves as stars."

    She said, "although KarlLargafeld and Marc Jacobs are big stars in the outside world, they themselves have never seen themselves so.

    Once designers claim to be stars, their design career is coming to an end.


    The origin of the name of "cell" also has the same meaning: single cell itself has vitality, but only when it is combined together can it form a real body. Fashion and fashion also appear so that only designers can join together to play a positive role in promoting the fashion industry.

    The designers of the French High Fashion Association chose to attend the exhibition. The main consideration is two. Are these designers sold abroad?

    Can they represent the future of fashion?

    Most of them have been elected to the Paris fashion week schedule for ten consecutive years, but there are exceptions, such as Japanese designer Hoshino Joji, whose designs are selling very well in the US.


    Xingye, 30 years old, shows undisguised yearning for the Chinese market.

    "China is more important than Europe."

    He repeated this sentence.

    He first came to China on the chance of "cell" exhibition, and found two companies with cooperative intentions.

    Unlike many of his colleagues, his plan is to set up his own stores in China.

    In the interview, he mentioned the mass market many times.

    People all over the world want Chanel and want LouisVuitton, but not everyone can afford it.

    Fashion brands can also satisfy them if they cannot afford luxury brands.

    He said, "young people can accept young designers faster, so my focus is on young customers."


    China is the youngest market in the world.

    In the eye of Xingye, this is a "special zone".

    Designers like Hoshino Joji and Lutz represent typical business practices of Western designers whose brands are not large in scale and have little turnover, but one day they will sell the company, which may be much more expensive than the sum of years of brand turnover.

    China's brand has been accumulating assets until now, so far it has begun to begin to obscurity with the concept of intangible assets.

    Will the entry of foreign designers make Chinese designers face more severe challenges?

    "That's for sure."

    Grumbach answered with a clear answer: "Chinese designers are less competitive than foreign designers.

    These designers are small businesses with large brands.

    Just because of this,

    Fashion Design Competition

    We hope that we can use competition to drive enterprises to persist in creativity.

    "Instead of marketing creativity, creativity can extend marketing methods."

    Zhao Qian said.


    "Chinese people still need time.

    China's clothing industry needs to see how others do it. "

    Richard Ren e said.


    "China needs one or two national designers to succeed in the world.

    This is difficult, but very important. "

    Hoshino said.

    Although the Chinese market can be self-sufficient, Grumbach insists that if the trend of globalization is irresistible, there will be no future for brands that do not follow the international path.

    Therefore, it is only the first step for Chinese brands to invite famous designers abroad to make art consultants.

    "One day, if they want to export their products, they need a well-known brand to support -- in the international market, brand is the most important thing."

    Grumbach said.

    And this process can only be done by Chinese enterprises themselves.

      


    China is buying them.

    Originality


    Adam Jones Fashion Arts Festival won the first prize in October. In the same year, he won the prize as a brand.

    He is still in the final of the Saint Martin Institute and the international Royal Fashion Festival.

    In 2005, his brand Adam Jones17 was hit by Colette in London at the age of Legendary.

    In 2003, he was a professor with his wife and a professor at University of the Arts in Berlin.

    Since 2002, LutzES ORCHESTER has been officially listed in the Camden market of Paris advanced garment week and has sold the first set of clothes designed by him.

    It has created its own brand.

    He was a member of the French High Fashion Association in Paris in October 2004.

    Official schedule.

    In 1989, the young British designer came to France and installed Zhou, the first time he held a brand press conference.

    In 2005, 7 entered KENZO, responsible for knitting products.

    5 years later, in June, he was recommended by Jean Paul Gore and MarongiuRichard. He was also the head of Dior knitting series. He was officially listed in the official days of Paris high fashion week in 1989 with Ferre and invited members. In 1989, Marcel Marongiu established a collaboration between Marcel and Richard, Ren graduated from the school of advanced arts and crafts, and other famous teachers.

    In 1999, he set up his own elevation.

    Its own brand and the first time released the senior women's wear series.

    (LISAA) from 1994 to 1997, he served as a women's clothing company in Herm ye s, and opened his own store in Tokyo in March 2001 in Tokyo palace, Paris.

    First assistant, then became the first Jean Paul Gaultier to release the first senior garment series, which has made an unprecedented sensation.

    Jean Paul Knott his style is a delicate blend of suits and other products, the first assistant of leather grade fashion and the director of leather series.


    Jean Paul Knott graduated from New York Fashion Technology Institute with the characteristics of romance, modern and sensibility.

    Marcel Maronkin showed his design inspiration to Yale international fashion art Anne Valerie Hash design specialty.

    He entered Yves Saint Laurent in 1988 and is currently the artistic director of Guy Laroche.

    Madonna, festival, and the four awards, including the design award, graduated from the Anne Valerie1996 of Paris High Fashion Association and became the main designer of YSL Rive Gauche. Alicia Keys, Dido and other stars have been dressed in his designs immediately received from New York.

    London

    The most famous Hash in Tokyo and Hongkong used her as an assistant to Saint Laurent when she worked in Chanel, Dior and other brands.

    The buyer of department stores is very popular.

    This series of success has led to his orthodox views on women's clothing and the design of new forms and new systems.

    In 1999, he created a brand named after his name in Belgian Belgium in the summer of 2004.

    She has built her own brand JEAN PAUL KNOTT, second Romain Kremer and recommended by Gaultier in the advanced women's clothing industry. She was invited to Paris in January 2005, which fully embodies her unique creativity and change year. That is to say, in Paris, Le Louvre Museum officially released the senior garment.


    The official schedule of Paris Esaa fashion week is released.

    Her senior women's clothing style has been included for Nicole years, he has become the artistic director of KRIZIA, and MarucciaDuperre fashion design specialty.

    In the same year, his work as Kidman, Uma Thurman, Cate Blanchett, Mandelli cooperation, in 2007, he became Cerruti brand art to participate in the International Youth designers competition final works in the Louvre Gu Jianyu, Hai Dou hall Gwyneth Paltrow, Naomi Watts, etc., no director of surgery.

    Recently, Knott was invited to enter Gao Gong in January 2008.

    In 2005, he was popular in the twentieth Yale international fashion COMMUUN brand, which was created jointly by Gu Jianyu and Hai Dou Huang.

    Customized official schedule.

    The festival was awarded the Creative Award. In January 2006, his product was released in 2005 and released in the advanced clothing week of Paris.


    From the first official opening of the opening ceremony to the official schedule of Paris senior men's wear week, COMMUUN won the acclaim of the industry. Paris's Felipe Oliveira BaptistaLUTZ has a series of new releases every season.

    L, ECLAIREUR, and New York, born in Azores, grew up in Lisbon, through 15 series of releases. Lutz has already set up fashion boutiques Bergdorf Gooman and SAKS FIVE dental designer in fashion industry, and graduated from Kingstown University in London in 1997.

    His designs are designed by Hoshino Joji, AVENUE, Hongkong's lac, I.T and Dover in London.

    In Italy, she worked for MaxMara for a year. The love of department stores and buyers was born in Japan, Australia and new Hoshino Joji in 1978. After competing with excellent Street Market, Yise Dan and Restir in Tokyo in 2000, he went to Paris in 1998 to become a New Zealand University of Christophe, Russia, Austria, Spain, India and the United States, and graduated from Japan Institute of culture and clothing.

    In 2001, he bought their products in England.

    In 2007, COMMUUN received an assistant from Lemaire.

    In 2002, he studied in many fashion shops in Yale international, Losangeles and Boston, France, and studied the art and design specialty of University of Nottingham in Yale. He also won the LVMH awards and Long Champ awards in Yale.

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