Men Need Better Fabrics.

When fashion designer Yang Guanhua goes to China, the biggest worry is baggage overweight. After finishing her design study, she became the best place for her to purchase fabrics. Usually, in her suitcase, she rarely found shopping results, and fabrics were the main characters. 　

The emergence of high street fashion brands such as ZARA and H&M has broken the important rules of fashion circles for a long time, making design the most important factor for fashionable young people. But in fact, fabric is the key in the field of advanced garments. The secret of keeping classic style for many years is to insist on using superior material.

Young women need fashionable designs, but for older women who choose less and less, good fabrics can retain more customers for brands. The consensus of these customers is that good clothes 80% depend on the quality of fabrics.

Men's clothing is the same, most of the time, it has no age difference. Italian Ercole Botto Poala is in the fashion industry, but he doesn't care what new style the men's wear has. Single breasted or double breasted, that's the designer's choice. As the CEO of REDA company, he was more concerned about what fabric he made and could take it out of his suitcase without wrinkles at that moment. This is also a worry for many men. A suit that meets this requirement in the mall will cost at least 8000 yuan. The brands that use REDA fabrics include HUGO BOSS, CANALI, and even their own Zegna based on fabrics.

Why is good clothing not expensive?

An extreme example may illustrate the quality of good fabrics. In the campaign of defending the Tibetan antelope several years ago, people opposed the killing of Tibetan antelope, but the massacre was repeatedly banned. The direct reason for poachers to take risks is their lucrative profits. A scarf made of Tibetan antelope wool has excellent thermal insulation, but the thickness can be passed through a ring.

For manufacturers of wool fabrics, they also value the sheep's wool. The wool of Erdos, Australia and New Zealand is recognized as the world's best wool producing area. The fabric brand LORO PIANA also gives awards to these wool producers every year to encourage them to produce finer wool. The more delicate the wool is, the more comfortable the fabric feels.

It seems that there is only one answer for consumers to discern the quality of fabrics, that is, buying more. Only when you try it yourself will you understand the difference between gloss and softness of experts in different fabrics. If you don't buy it, you can do more shopping in the mall. Otherwise, you can't understand how cashmere can be made of silk just by imagination.

Top brands are far beyond imagination about the fabric's R & D and investment. The fashion brands such as Ralph Lauren and CANALI have special departments responsible for the next season's brands. According to their own needs, they made requests to professional fabric manufacturers like REDA. The two parties jointly discussed the colors, patterns and so on for the next season's fabrics. Fabric brands need to use all kinds of technical means to meet this requirement. It is said that a certain fabric brand has grinded the diamond into powder and woven it into the wool, only to improve the gloss of the fabric. The suit made of this top material is naturally sky high. But there are still many noble peers waiting to be customized in Europe.

One of the most expensive fabrics is the lace fabric that is often seen in women's suits. It may be the result of several months of manual labor by several workers. If it were not for the French government's policy protection, these hand woven industries may have long been against the tide of machine weaving. Expensive manual woven fabrics are now only available for high-quality tailored women's wear. The textile factory in the Northern French town of Tetra Pak requires no defects and nodes on the cloth. In the fashion world, perfection and cost often complement each other.

In addition, as the textile industry is one of the most serious environmental pollution industries, the fashion industry is now paying more and more attention to environmental issues. Good fabric companies try to change these bad impressions and use more advanced technology equipment. For most Chinese consumers, fabric safety and food safety are their most concerned factors. No one wants clothes to destroy their skin health. Good fabrics will reduce damage to the environment in the course of production, processing and disposal. With stricter standards, the cost will undoubtedly rise.

But now, Ercole Botto Poala is not sure that these environmentally friendly fabrics will be the mainstream of the future. How many people will pay for the expensive environmental price?

Design according to fabric

Designers usually know more about fabric than consumers do, and most of Yang Guanhua's fabrics are from Dior and Lacroix's advanced custom garments. "Good fabric can inspire designers. If you only know sketches but no fabrics can achieve design concepts, that's not a good designer. Fabric is the foundation of all garments. Only high-quality fabrics can show the quality and shape of the clothes to the consumers.

Yang Guanhua's research on fabrics is almost obsession. In the past, she will not go anywhere but the local fabric market Dong Jia Du. In order to find the right fabric, she has to run in these cities, because she is an independent small family. When she buys cloth, she is always more expensive than others. In her opinion, the cost is necessary. In the past, she created a second line brand that is more suitable for young people, using some ordinary fabrics, and the price is cheaper. Now, she has stopped the brand. "After I've touched the fabric, I know that good fabric can give me more room to play. It can reflect the idea of design well, which is like working with a good team."

However, good fabrics are also like bad tempered aristocrats, who need to be well served. In the field of traditional men's clothing that is difficult to imagine, the demand for designers is even higher. Ercole Botto Poala praised wool as God's best natural fiber for human beings, but at the same time, wool is also one of the worst fabrics. Wool is wrinkled and insect bites. It will also deform and pump. It will make the performance of wool more stable. Sometimes blending is not a bad thing.

The traditional suit made of wool is far more demanding for the tailor than the fashion design. The inexperienced master can not make a piece of cloth into a perfect suit. He wants to know where the sleeves are sutured, the most suitable one, and will not make people feel uncomfortable. A good suit has a lot of manual work at the waist stitch. Many places need to be stretched until it is ironed. The ironing method is also very particular, and these details can hardly be seen from the appearance. You can only judge whether it fits well by visual judgment. Only good fabric and good workmanship can best shape the figure. If you want to repeat the above steps instead of making a mistake, a good fabric will cost you. In these workshops, fabric costs and labor costs are comparable, and in those factories that do not pay attention to design, sometimes the cost of fabrics can be much higher than manual labor.