Fast Fashion Designer Kenzo Boss Exchange Pfusion
When Riccardo Tisci (Givenchy design director) will start to succeed in replacing rumors of John Galliano's entry into Dior, a new message from Kenzo is likely to break this situation.
LVMH recently announced the appointment of Humberto Leon and Carol Lim as the creative director of Kenzo (effective in July), thus ending the 8 years of cooperation with legendary designer Antonio Marras.
This led to an uproar in the fashion industry.
LVMH's top designers are taking turns to exchange blood, and many high-end fashion buyers and critics are puzzled by the re positioning of high-end brands under market pressure.
While regretted the resignation of talented Italy designer Marras, he expressed curiosity about the new future of Kenzo.
The founder group Humberto Leon and Carol Lim from Opening Ceremony are not traditional fashion designers. They have not received much professional training in design.
Unlike the "high fashion" that Marras focuses on, what they create is more like a constantly changing retail world.
The Humberto Leon of Peru, China, is the artistic director of Opening Ceremony and the chief executive of Korean Carol Lim.
Two 36 year old young men who are complementary in character have chosen to sign a contract with the hippie brand, showing a "fast fashion" of the American road trip.
Their shops in New York and Losangeles are very popular, and their cooperation with Rodarte, Maison Martin Margiela, K.Jacques and Chlo e S Vigny has also been well received by the market.
Since 2004, Kenzo, under the auspices of Marras, has achieved nearly 630 million pounds in retail business.
Although it withdrew from the US in 2003, it successfully entered the two largest markets in China and Russia. It has more than 600 wholesale customers in Europe and more than 100 boutiques in the world, making DIOR core customers jealous.
But this fashionable romantic designer who is good at combining Oriental Zen with Italian style has lost the favor of LVMH finally.
Antonio Marras's Kenzo focuses on stage dramatization, but its clothing series is not guaranteed enough.
It is reported that over the past 8 years, orders from local buyers to get their invitations have been reduced to a reduced price. Marras is regarded as talented but less and less appealing to the market.
Although LVMH, who is good at business, did not give more details about the dismissal, he also kept silent about the whereabouts of Marras.
But judging from his young successor, Kenzo will usher in unprecedented pformation, and critics say it is "downgrading".
Critics for Marras feel that these two new red guys are more suitable for Kenzo's deputy cards, but not enough to run a promising main line.
But from LVMH's past experience, Marc Jacobs's work for LV has obviously become the best example: the sub card will always generate more benefits.
Kenzo's return to the United States and its focus on the booming Asian market, targeting itself at contemporary brands such as Alexander Wang, Rag &Bone and so on, is clearly waving to mass consumers.
"The decision to hire Leon and Lim stems from the need to rebrand the brand.
The Opening Ceremony created by them is regarded as a world of style and a community that attracts everything. It attracts a lot of ethnic groups, but it is also a mental state, not just a simple trademark.
The interpretation of LVMH group's fashion business President Pierre-Yves Roussl to Women's Wear Daily is that "two new designers will bring Kenzo fresh creativity and innovative working style to the Kenzo, and I am confident that the unique spirit and lifestyle that they advocate will continue to grow."
From the background, Leon and Lim are really coming to Kenzo's strategic plan to re-enter the US market.
They were born in California and studied together in Berkeley college. After graduation, they moved to New York.
Leon has worked in Gap and Burberry; Lim has financial experience, and has done some marketing related work for Bally.
When the two people founded the Opening Ceremony fashion store in New York in 2002, they mainly sold international fashion designer clothing as the business concept, and they were quite familiar with the US market.
For a mature luxury group, what is needed is the immediate revenue.
The Kenzo, which is generally worried by the industry, will become a brand of Marc by Marc Jacobs. It will not affect LVMH's ambitions for the gifted Antonio Marras's wrist and luxury signals that are waving to fast wave.
Pierre-Yves Roussel says Kenzo is launching an ambitious development plan. "After that, Leon and Lim will be deployed around New York and Paris, and they will be allocated as their main points for their time."
This means that 2012 spring and summer Paris men's wear weekly Kenzo has become the seal of Antonio Marras before leaving office and the eternal masterpiece of "old Kenzo".
What changes will the new top two young people bring to the brand? We can only look forward to their first fashion show in fashion week September.
For Marras, the best outcome is not to go to Christian Dior to take over John Galliano's job, but to get a generous severance pay so that he can focus on his brand from now on.
Let Rome go to Rome and Kaiser belong to Kaiser.
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