Han Costume Tang Suit, Who Can Be "National Costume"?

In the hundred years of Xinhai, the "Zhongshan dress" and "Qipao" appeared frequently in popular TV dramas and triggered a topic about "national service". Yesterday, reporters interviewed a number of famous clothing professors, and learned that almost every period of Chinese history had similar dress codes. "The regulations on service regulations", which were the last in China's modern and contemporary history, were introduced in 1929. Experts believe that contemporary China still needs "National costume" It can display the image of the state and the nation and promote social harmony internally.

The Chinese tunic suit has always been a quasi national costume.

The Chinese tunic suit is known to be one of the "quasi national costume". Bao Mingxin, director of the clothing Institute of Donghua University, thinks that the Chinese tunic suit is a new Western-style suit, but it is more convenient than a Western-style suit. Besides wearing no tie, it is also not very high on the clothes it wears. It belongs to a functional uniform. In fact, this dress also absorbed the characteristics of the new Japanese men's clothing, and the students who stayed in Japan earlier wore more clothes. In addition, the "Nehru suit" which is regarded as "national costume" by India also belongs to this series, which is consistent with the characteristics of standing collar and single breasted.

Bian Xiangyang, a professor at the clothing Institute of Donghua University, once visited the United States as a visiting scholar of Harvard University in twentieth Century. Clothes & Accessories Fashion "is now editing the history of modern clothing in Shanghai. He believes that the origin of the Chinese tunic suit is different. Mr. Sun Zhongshan once participated in the design of the Zhongshan suit without any demonstration. In fact, the regulations of the Republic of China on the regulation of the Republic of China promulgated in 1912 were very controversial. Finally, two sets of clothes were selected as "national costume", one in one west. The former retained the robe of the robe and the latter was the traditional western style dress. "Even after 17 years later, another version of the" Regulations on the conduct of services "was issued, and there was no" Zhongshan suit ". Only one set of uniforms was similar to civil servants.

Bian Xiangyang said: "the Chinese tunic suit was actually a common call from 1949 to 1950." Professor Bao Mingxin also believes that if the English term of "Zhongshan suit" is translated literally as "Mao's suit", it is related to Comrade Mao Zedong's love of Chinese tunic suit.

National costume design is a big problem.

"How do you wear the Chinese tunic in summer?" Asked Professor Liu Xiaogang of Donghua University. As China's clothing art design subject The first master and doctor, Liu Xiaogang team has designed for the Chinese people's Liberation Army, Shanghai, World Expo and other industrial clothing, professional wear. He admits, "the design of national costume is a big problem."

Can Chinese tunic and cheongsam serve as candidates for men's and women's version of "national costume"? Clothing experts can not be asserted. Bao Mingxin said that "Tang suit" is also eligible to be selected as a national costume, and the female version can be a two piece jacket with a lower skirt. In fact, the so-called "Tang costume" evolved in modern times based on the mandarin jacket. The APEC leaders' informal meeting was also successfully improved to be the leader's special costume during the Shanghai conference. As for Hanfu, which has a long history, many young people have formed their Hanfu groups spontaneously. Bao Mingxin believes that Han costume is also acceptable in some national characteristics of the liturgy.

Generally speaking, experts agree that "national service" should not be a single product, but rather a series of clothing. Not only can it meet different seasons' wear, but also can choose to wear according to different occasions and objects, and form a set of collocation in styles, colors, patterns, decorations and so on.

Multiple rounds of selection for building "national service library"

The finalizing of "national service" is not an overnight effort, nor is it possible for a few people to participate in it. Liu Xiaogang suggested that our country should try to establish a systematic "national service library" to form a series of "national costume" from inside to outside, from top to bottom, from winter to summer, from simple to formal. The building of a database must be carried out on the basis of extensive public opinion surveys. Initially, tens of thousands of clothing units may be formed, which can be gradually put into storage. After that, through a wide range of opinion collection, prioritizing sorting apparel units, after several rounds of comparison, it is possible to determine a set of adjustable programmes.

Liu Xiaogang believes that "national costume" must have many identifying elements, such as 10 kinds. Each element should have textual research and provenance, which is normative, but not mandatory. For example, the "national costume" can be divided into two categories: the popular version and the advanced version. The advanced version may be more orthodox, with 7 or more of the 10 design elements, while the popular edition must be "custom", and the 10 element can satisfy more than 3 kinds.

In addition, "national costume" is also significant for the development of national industry. Professor Bian Xiangyang, for example, clearly stated in the old regulations that the "national costume" should be made entirely of domestic fabrics, aiming at importing nylon materials and metal fasteners at that time. Experts say that if the "national costume" can be popularized in today's China, there will be a great boost to the national spirit and related industries.