No Madness Not Paris: 2012 Paris Spring And Summer Fashion Week Ghosts Modeling
2012 for 9 days (September 27th to October 5th).
Paris
Spring and summer fashion came to a close before Sunday. Compared with other cities, the trend of Paris style is always the most difficult to summarize because the city is crowded with too many strong individuals.
style
The designer.
Compared with New York's business, London's perversion and Milan's practicality, Paris's creative freedom spirit has brought us great impact.
If I had used Alexander McQueen once said, "I am a romantic schizophrenic", this may represent many pioneers in Paris.
Designer
The state is not crazy, not Paris.
It is these crazy ideas that make up half of the Paris style.
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In October 5th, Louis Vuitton took the lead in the design trend of T, including the 50s, 60s, semi high customization, British embroidery and maiden like pastels. At that time, Paris fashion week was coming to a close.
The decline and decline of the euro have obviously not weakened the creativity and artistic expression of the city. Paris has left us the last surprise in the increasingly boring fashion industry.
The Paris fashion week still provides a variety of stages for designers from Paris or other provinces, whether Paris style "defenders" or "practitioners".
There are always two opposing camps in fashion show: one is clothes that can be worn, such as Chlo, such as Herm s.
The other is to emphasize the expression of concept, which has an impact on the authority of the fashion industry. For example, Maison Martin Margiela affects Nicolas Ghesqui re.
Obviously, for Paris fashion week, we look forward to the latter.
So Rick Owens, dressed in a white robe as a religious redemption spirit, dressed as a martyr through the gates of heaven. Viktor & Rolf wore the dolls of dolls in the autumn and winter armour Knight style. When these flashing long eyelashes, wearing the enlarged collar, leg shaped bubble sleeves and the costumed dolls with the exaggerated edge of the needle, shuttle to the T platform, it is like a surreal absurd drama.
Vivienne Westwood, the most romantic design style, looks more like a rag or scrap. It is said that the inspiration comes from what Dame Viv is thinking these days: about the past, about the future, and some wandering clouds.
So the mind jumps like a Shaoxing opera, from saving the earth to restoring the ancient lady's bra.
In other words, perhaps there is a warning from this design: if the problem of accumulation is not solved in time, it will lead to collapse, regardless of the earth or empire.
Perhaps there are other interpretations.
Here, designers pcend the identity of artists. They are more like a narrator, digging out details from their familiar or curious culture, and thinking about the deep connection between them. In this relationship, different emotions such as violence, worry or politics alternated.
Or, like a surrealist, express the image or possibility of dreams in a crazy way.
Half is elegance, the other half is crazy. Maybe this is only a multiple Paris style.
On the Balenciaga fashion show, the collapse of the front seat was a gossip, and it was said that before the last bench collapsed, a sound was sounded in the show to make the audience stand up and feel like a church.
Who knows that this disordered feeling is not a dramatic act of art?
However, whether or not a bench collapses does not prevent Balenciaga's fashion show from becoming a hot topic on Twitter.
This, of course, is related to Nicolas Ghesqui re, who expressed his respect for the prevailing sports style and the accuracy of tailoring and craft with the theme of futuristic sports.
A notable feature of the new series is the deep exploration of shapes: wide shoulder box coat with high slash sports shorts and high waist tapered pants, or waist waist dress, all of which are interesting for triangulation.
Such geometric elements run through the whole series, no matter whether the color blocks are stitching or inlaying.
Color shows a peculiar combination of wine, brick, red, old gold, peach pink, pottery, black and white. The medieval style facial and stained glass effect printing further exacerbates this exaggeration.
Not only that, but the difference between Nicolas Ghesqui re and other designers is that he is aware of the pformation of modern lifestyle. He can make traditional high fashion and street fashion perfect.
Nicolas Ghesqui re is obsessed with the technology of advanced customization, even if it is the simplest white T-shirt, it must also be made by three-dimensional tailoring.
This is a designer who can raise the technology of clothing to belief. He is convinced that the creation of a perfect sleeve can also redeem the soul. When he combined this belief with Balenciaga and realized the perfect reshaping, more people put him on the altar.
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Rites of life
Perhaps by the revelation of this year's great earthquake in Japan, the show of Comme des Gar ons is called "white drama", which seems to imply some secret thinking and religious expression to human life.
Comme des Gar ons ons stripped all colors this season and explored the role of white in every post or the most meaningful life ceremony, including birth, marriage, death and nirvana.
Different levels of all white series, from paper white, bone white to milky white, outline presents a triangle, hourglass or cocoon style carving.
Some are clear and imaginative expressions, such as wedding dresses, washing clothes at the baptism ceremony, exquisite lace and hollowed lace, showing a romantic feeling.
Others, such as cocoon capes, church style hooded robes and dustproof covers, asymmetrical hem dress, have a nearly religious meaning.
The bandage framework seems to imply an inevitable fate.
The topic of life and death is too heavy for a fashion show, so some humorous details obviously help create a relaxed atmosphere.
For example, the white boots on the model's feet look like the technical personnel dressed in nuclear reactors. This may be regarded as a projection of the Japanese earthquake, and of course it can be seen as an attempt to fashion 60s styles.
The "long sleeved dance" or "very covered" sleeve is very noticeable in the entire show, which may be another symbolic exploration. It is also a very creative detail in Wakubo Rei's release.
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Opposition & deconstruction
Maison Martin Margiela discussed deconstruction and hermaphrodite this season.
The description of the concept includes exposed ribbon, plastic shawl, valgus line and deconstruction line, or a men's suit deliberately trimmed according to the female figure. The stiff fabric creates a very sculptural outline on the shoulder suture.
The design of the evening dress with a sudden change is just like the Persian carpet underneding the model, but the fabric is more delicate and shining silk.
What's more ridicule is that the model also has a pparent plastic cloak, which will easily remind people of the plastic wrapped outside the carpet.
And this cloak also has the Martin Margiela logo wide shoulder design, and this kind of creativity is not bad in the whole show, but it seems logical.
The design team of Martin Margiela, in addition to the contradictory exploration of deconstruction and sculpture, masculine and feminine, is truly successful in presenting clothes that can be worn outside the concept.
You can completely imagine that these shimmed dresses appear in fashion parties. Most of the works in this series are the same: including swallow tailed dresses, tailored pants, retro style white shirts, improved windbreaker, cowboy jackets, shell tops and long skirts.
This may be a new eclectic expression of madness in Paris show.
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