Cotton Textile Industry: Green Production Test Competitiveness
"What we produce
Denim
The quality is almost the same as that produced in Turkey, but why can their cloth sell for seven or eight dollars per metre, and our cloth can only be sold for two or three dollars? Where is the gap? "The question raised by Yang Bin, deputy general manager of Foshan Zhixing textile garment company, has aroused heated discussions among representatives of the 2011 national denim industry annual conference.
Yang Bin believes that in the past, enterprises mainly focused on improving product quality and saving energy.
environmental protection
The importance of cleaner production is not enough. The gap between the two competitors is precisely reflected in this aspect.
His views have been recognized by many enterprises.
"Green environmental protection and cleaner production" is the theme of the annual national denim industry conference.
How to apply new ecological raw materials, choose environment-friendly dyes and slurry, and how to apply new technologies and technologies of energy saving and emission reduction have become hot topics.
The delegates agreed that energy conservation, emission reduction and low-carbon environmental protection are the requirements of the country, the needs of society and the responsibility of enterprises, and also the inevitable choice to enhance the competitiveness of enterprises.
Increasingly urgent
ecology
Requirement
In the previous stage, Greenpeace, an international environmental group, released a report entitled "the poison of fashion - the global water pollution survey of clothing brands". The survey showed that 14 global clothing brands such as Nike, Adidas and Lining failed to effectively solve the problem of water pollution caused by toxic and harmful substances emitted by suppliers.
Lining, Nike, H&M and other 14 garment enterprises and related suppliers have been pushed onto the cusp.
No matter how it is, this incident is reminding.
Spin
Enterprises attach importance to energy conservation, environmental protection and cleaner production.
In recent years, a number of excellent enterprises have begun to attach importance to energy conservation and environmental protection. By introducing advanced equipment and adopting new raw materials and new technology, environmental indicators have reached or surpassed domestic and international standards.
Relevant government departments also issued a number of support for energy saving, emission reduction and backward industrial policy.
Although these efforts have made great achievements, many enterprises, especially small and medium-sized enterprises, do not attach importance to clean production of environmental protection.
In August 12th, the European Commission's non food quick warning system issued consumer warnings to Chinese women's jeans.
The notification country of this case is Poland. The jeans are blue and the style / type is coded as OM215.
Because the formaldehyde content of the jeans is as high as 180mg/kg, there is a risk of chemical sensitivity or poisoning. The products do not comply with the relevant EU legislation.
At present, the competent authorities in Poland have ordered the goods to be withdrawn from the market.
The case that happened not long ago alerts enterprises that they can no longer attach importance to clean production of eco environmental protection.
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According to Lin Li, manager of eco Products Certification Department of Tianxiang group, there is no uniform definition of eco textiles so far.
Generally speaking, the concept of eco textiles involves four links: renewable or reusable resources; harmless to the environment and human health during the production and processing of products; the products are harmless to the human body or the environment during the use of the products; the products will not cause new pollution to the environment after the products are discarded.
She reminded the denim manufacturers to focus on banned azo dyes, APEO, formaldehyde and heavy metals.
Raw materials used for denim fabrics: pure cotton, wool, viscose, polyester, Tencel, linen, silk, dyestuffs involved in dyeing, auxiliaries used in cowboy processing, and other problems may not meet the requirements of environmental protection.
For example, heavy metals may exist in reactive dyes, and direct dyes can cause carcinogenic aromatic amines. Additives may produce residues such as APEO and formaldehyde.
The EU REACH regulations, which came into force in June 1, 2007, have received wide attention. According to REACH regulations, substances listed in Appendix XIV are not authorized to be sold and used.
These substances include carcinogenic, mutagenicity and reproductive toxicants, persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic substances and high persistence, high bioaccumulation substances and similar substances, collectively referred to as highly concerned substances (SVHC).
As of June 20, 2011, the proposed SVHC list of candidates included in Appendix XIV contained 53 substances, of which 7 had been officially identified as SVHC.
In the United States, the list of restricted substances issued by the American clothing and Footwear Association (AAFA) (RSL) has been launched in March 21, 2011.
Although it is not a national standard, as a trade association covering more than 70% of the clothing and footwear brands and retailers in the United States, the list of restricted substances with self disciplined nature is undoubtedly a basic "green threshold" for its members' global purchasing and retail behavior.
For all kinds of ecological requirements and "green threshold" in the world, Lin believes that the denim production enterprises should correctly understand and understand the development trend of the world's green consumption, actively track the legislative trend and process of international green barriers, understand and grasp the specific requirements of various green barriers, improve the management level of supply chain, production and processing, quality control and other aspects, adopt new technologies and new materials, use the tested and certified ecological dyeing chemicals, and cooperate with qualified third party quality service organizations to strengthen quality management.
For ecological control, it should be the combination of source control, process control and finished product control. The final product test is the only means of controlling the final product as an auxiliary means. After controlling the toxic and harmful substances that may be generated in the source and process, the finished product inspection is used as a means of testing results.
In this way, it is also a "sampling 5%" test strategy. The former can only control 5% of the risk, while the latter can control most of the ecological risks.
Environmental cost considerations
In 2007, Foshan Zhixing textile and clothing company began to use Cole company's environmental dyes, not only improve the quality of dyeing, but also save the washing link, both water saving and emission reduction.
But Yang Bin, deputy general manager of the company, also said that the dye was expensive and the cost of using it was increased by 2 yuan.
Under the situation of increasing production costs, many enterprises are unable to bear it.
But how should we consider the cost of environmental protection? Yang Bin introduced one thing that enterprises encountered: as a result of the use of some foam finishing agent, the company's products were found to contain APEO. In order to solve this problem, the company spent more than ten million yuan.
This prompted the company to choose environmentally-friendly dyes and auxiliaries. The company's products also play an important role in environmental protection. The theme of green is not only improving the added value of products, but also getting a stable customer base.
Of course, the realization of green production is not just about using environmentally-friendly dyes and auxiliaries.
Lin Yaokun, deputy general manager of Guangdong Dongguan textile spinning and weaving company, said that the implementation of green cleaner production should be considered in all aspects of the whole production system, starting with product design, involving the configuration and selection of production equipment, fiber, yarn and so on.
As a leading enterprise in the industry, the black peony group effectively grasps the new opportunity for relocation and pformation into the park, and grasps the great opportunities for the construction of the new park, and promotes the pformation and upgrading of enterprises.
In the process of the construction of the park, the black peony group has made scientific planning and rational layout, making full use of the advantages of the industrial chain, and optimizing the allocation of all kinds of resources and energy through improving the cleaner production process, recycling of resources, the recycling of energy, the centralized disposal of waste, and the cooperative production between processes.
The black peony group has always chosen environmentally friendly recycled fiber materials such as bamboo fiber, hemp fiber, recycled fiber and so on in terms of product technology optimization and selection. It has developed a series of new ecological denim fabrics: developing organic cotton series denim with environmentally-friendly and pollution-free organic cotton; developing a series of environment-friendly cool and warm denim fabrics with new type of moisture absorption, sweat and warm fiber, which can reduce the energy consumption of 5%~6%, respond to the global requirements for low carbon and environmental protection; actively cooperate with new material suppliers, and develop a series of new functional fabrics that are suitable for seasons, antibacterial, UV resistant and environmental friendly.
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The black peony group developed water-saving dyeing technology. Through dyeing and chemical screening and technological innovation, less water was washed or even washed in the dyeing process. The problem of printing and dyeing effluent was solved from the source of the process, and significant water-saving effects were obtained.
The new product has better washing characteristics, and its fastness is better than that of traditional indigo.
At the same time, the group is also committed to screening environment-friendly dyes and slurry suitable for process requirements to replace the original heavily contaminated dyes and effectively reduce the COD in the wastewater.
When designing and building a comprehensive office building, the black peony group abandoned the traditional air-conditioning technology of electric refrigeration, instead of the energy saving frontiers air conditioning technology, water storage air-conditioning, balancing the load of the electric network by using the energy saving air conditioning mode that uses the power grid's peak and valley electricity price difference, using cold water chiller to cool the house at night and cooling the main engine during the daytime, and greatly reducing the electricity consumption of the office buildings, and purifying the environment at the same time.
When installing new dyeing and pre shrinking production lines, the black Mudan Group invested nearly one million yuan to introduce steam condensate and waste heat recovery equipment, and carried out condensate recovery and treatment, resulting in considerable economic benefits; invested more than two thousand million yuan to build a water reuse process for advanced treatment of sewage, and realized reclaimed water reuse in processes and areas such as mercerized water washing, dyeing water washing, and life misuse. A coal-fired heat pfer oil boiler with serious pollution to the atmosphere was eliminated, and the natural gas combustion technology was directly applied to the pformation of the stereotype machine, which greatly reduced the emission of sulfur dioxide and nitrogen oxides.
LAN Yan group insists on independent innovation, willing to invest, and actively applies green energy saving technology, technology and materials by introducing advanced manufacturing technology, technology and equipment at home and abroad.
The new technology of non-woven dyeing of denim is independently developed by the company. Through the pformation of the traditional equipment, new dyeing and finishing equipment and ultraviolet modification treatment device have been realized, and the water-saving dyeing has been realized. The water consumption is 100%, and the energy saving is more than 10%.
The company creatively applies the high-efficiency spray wetting technology to the denim preshrinking finishing. After the implementation of the project, the water consumption is reduced by 80%, electricity saving is 20%, and steam consumption is saved by 70%.
The development of water-saving denim fabric adopts double-sided structure, reduces the dyeing ratio of warp yarn, saves 25% of dyeing and finishing materials, and reduces water consumption by 20%.
Henan Zhi Yongda textile company pays close attention to source control and promotes cleaner production.
The company invested 2 million 600 thousand yuan, using new technology to re design and pform the waste water treatment system, so that the quality of the wastewater reaches the first level standard, and the utilization rate of the wastewater is greatly improved.
The common feeling of these leading enterprises is that although environmental protection dyes and energy saving technologies are needed to increase investment or increase single cost, the total production cost has not increased but decreased.
Under the situation of rising energy and resource prices, the application of new technologies of energy saving and emission reduction and cleaner production has stabilized the quality of products, reduced the cost of products, and improved the market share and competitiveness of enterprises.
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