Expert Viewpoint: Four Major Problems Restricting The Development Of Designers

A country that cannot stand on its brand will never be able to gain a foothold in the world's clothing market. There has been a clear consensus that the resources of excellent designers in China have not been spanformed into brand power. Some of them have been buried in China, and some have been lost abroad. Valuable Designer The loss of resources has made the whole industry pained, but it has also led to the deep thinking of the clothing design industry.

Liu Guanzhong, a professor at Academy of Fine Arts, Tsinghua University, analyzed the design circles in our country. Present situation It puts forward four major problems that China restricts the development of designers.

The international status of "division of labor"

At present, China is still in the division of labor in the international market. Some people always say that China is going to take the lead in innovation. Route However, China has not yet become a real manufacturing power, but only a big processing power.

China's labor force is rich and its consumption market is large. This is the biggest advantage of China's clothing industry, but Liu Guanzhong believes that this advantage has not been well utilized. Because many of our hard targets are not up to international standards, such as energy conservation and emission reduction. When a clothing brand is far away from the general standard of high-end brands in terms of technology, how can we talk about design? Now China's economy is actually divided by the global strategy. We have been in the state of division of labor, and many international rules of the game are restricting the development of the garment industry. Liu Guanzhong believes that if no one in the industry thinks about this problem, we will keep moving forward according to this rhythm. Even if we can design excellent products, we will not be able to go global and high-end. This is a question of the international environment and a prerequisite for design and development.

Seeking support is lacking quantification.

China can not develop internationally renowned designer brands. In fact, this is a very complicated process. The so-called design management is not to manage hundreds of designers, but to coordinate the contradictions in the whole industry chain.

In 2010, the Design Institute of Tsinghua University made a report to the Ministry of industry and commerce. The innovation mechanism is one of the key investigation items. The object of investigation is classified according to the output value of clothing production. In today's era of all quantized, the most effective method can be thought of at present.

An enterprise pulling output value is nothing more than resources, spanportation, technology and design. Many small and medium-sized enterprises have said that they are pulling the output value by design, hoping that the state will introduce policies that are more conducive to the design industry. So where is the data? Therefore, in improving the growth of soil, enterprises should also find their own reasons. In this era of quantitative choice, we must produce data to prove your design. This is a way to save ourselves.

Lack of strategic vision in design management

If the enterprise's capital chain, technology chain and anti risk ability can not keep up with it, it is difficult for a brand to come out completely. The designer can only be a master at most. He can be employed with high salary but not a brand, so that our country's outstanding designers will be attracted by the high salary.

In the peak period of fashion business, every year, new ideas emerge from all walks of life. 90% of them are failures, and only 10% of them can turn into productive forces. Design is risky. Enterprises must have a strong ability to resist risks. If a failure will be destroyed, then it will be difficult to wait for the excellent design to break out of the cocoon. Our enterprises are very weak in resisting risks. Or, many enterprises prefer to choose a safe way to follow the old road. There are few enterprises that can afford risks and innovate, and dare to challenge design and innovation. Besides, our design management lacks strategic long-term vision.

In design management, there is a very successful brand, Nike. At Nike's US headquarters, the head office of the design department is at the top level of the building. The head of the design department is thinking strategically. But what he needs to think about is whether the shoes should be black or grey. Instead, he needs to think about the overall style of the Nike brand and how to create the unique Nike label that other brands can not imitate. The foundation of enterprise development is product. The soul of the product is design. The design department must have the strategic vision of taking the whole situation into account, rather than limited to plate making, drawing and production.

Blindly following two winds

Just as a seed must absorb sunlight and nourishment to grow tall trees, a successful designer can not only climb to the summit by inspiration and talent. They must stand on the shoulders of giants.

The design is very flexible, not limited to clothing design, designers need cross-border thinking. Nowadays, Chinese designers are generally showing two development trends. One kind of designers like to pursue the "west wind", imitating western designers, while others like to pursue the Chinese style. Liu Guanzhong believes that western design is more advanced than ours, and we operate more successfully than we do. Of course we can imitate, but most designers only imitate phenomena and do not imitate spirit. The result is that the elements are the same, but the system is completely different.

The other is blindly pursuing the Chinese style. Tradition is to criticize and inherit. We stand high in order to keep our eyes high and not to keep looking at our feet. Before carrying out the design of the so-called "Chinese style", I want to know exactly what the essence of Chinese culture is. To truly understand the essence of Chinese ancient culture for thousands of years, our famous designers of Chinese Wind dress almost have profound attainments in traditional Chinese painting, calligraphy and tea art. When we fail to reach this level, we must honestly do the design and not attempt the so-called "Chinese style" easily. Chinese style does not mix Chinese Red elements, blue prints and ink and wash styles together.