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Autumn Wind: Chinese People Need A Cultural Consciousness Of Clothing.

2012/1/24 18:39:00 30

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Changes In Chinese Costume Culture And Costumes

When I went to Vienna to attend an academic activity, the Chinese friends gathered in front of the hotel before the meeting began. I was a little surprised: only about I didn't wear a suit, and my friends dressed up in suits and tie. Even if a friend said he would never wear a tie, at least he wore a suit suit on his slacks.

When I arrived at the meeting, I saw a more interesting scene: only about Chinese scholars wore formal suits. Of course, scholars from Taiwan, China and Japan seemed to be mostly dressed in suits. In contrast, local scholars in Vienna and scholars in other European countries are not wearing formal suits, especially young and middle-aged scholars. Most of them wear casual style suits. The vice president of University of Vienna wore a Chinese style skirt for the opening speech of the conference. In the evening, professors in History Department of University of Hong Kong were only dressed in leisure. shirt 。

I don't know what my friends think about it. Anyway, I feel a little embarrassed and sad. Friends are all cultural people, but I can not help but frankly say that people lack cultural consciousness, of course, Chinese culture. subject Consciousness of sex.

The topic discussed in Vienna is one hundred years of revolution and reform since the revolution of 1911. It is true that China in the whole twentieth Century was indeed a revolutionary century, and from the beginning it had the tendency of "Great Revolution", that is, not only to change the political operation structure, but also to change the customs of the people. At first, the project of transformation is relatively small, and the scope is relatively shallow. With the passage of time, the scope of change has been expanding and becoming more and more profound.

And clothing is always the object of change. In the first half of twentieth Century, western style clothing was introduced into large numbers, but at that time people still had more free choice. Many scholars were still lecturing and receiving guests in a robe. After 50s, Lenin service became mainstream and highly unified.

About the first half of 80s, western style dress became popular again. At that time, China was struggling to get out of the closed door state. The existing clothing was linked with the previous political and social psychology, and continued to wear it. It was a symbol of keeping the old. Wearing a suit was regarded as a symbol of opening up. Therefore, the leaders who advocated reform and opening up took the lead in wearing suits and ties. Disturbance 。

Thereafter, Suit In a large-scale fashion: leaders of the state are dressed in suits and suits on official occasions. Officials, businessmen and academics prepare for a set of suits and wear them on formal occasions. Not only in foreign countries, but also in China. Thus, in the formal ceremonial occasions of Chinese people, suits become standard clothes, so many formal meetings require that no formal dress be received. The author took part in some TV programs recording, and the director wanted to wear formal clothes. Q: what is the formal dress? Answer: suit. To such a request, I always reply coldly: I don't have a suit, nor a tie or a suit.

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I have no intention of choreographing and directing. I just want them to think about why Chinese Elite should regard western style dress as their formal dress. It is true that what kind of clothes to wear is seemingly the external manifestation of culture, but without these external manifestations, culture does not exist.

In fact, "Wen" in Chinese classics such as "civilization" and "culture" is first related to clothing. The "Hua" of "Hua Xia" is to describe the beauty of costumes. In the view of civilization of the ancients, Clothes and crown "It is the fundamental sign that China goes out of barbarism and distinguishes itself from all four ethnic groups. Later, the Central Plains intellectuals with higher civilization fled to the south, also known as the "dress South crossing". So, today, when the Chinese Elite dress in western style as their formal dress, and "Huaxia"?

Of course, I have no intention of unifying clothing, belonging to the dress freedom of the aesthetic field, but the most basic right of freedom. However, a person who enjoys the freedom of dress can have cultural consciousness. If you are an elite, you should have cultural consciousness. Especially in formal occasions with ceremonial nature, the confusion of clothing can actually lead to confusion in the whole role cognition, such as the loss of cultural subjectivity and even the loss of political consciousness.

The most frightening thing is that westernization of such clothing is not the result of people's free choice. Just a few years ago, local officials who thought they were also considered to be open minded were still forcing their subordinates to wear suits.

Such a thing is by no means unique. slightly Investigate It can be found that the Westernization of Chinese customs in twentieth Century accounted for most of the power. To Vienna, just in time for Sunday, this day, all shops closed, we feel very inconvenient. The seven day, one cycle life cycle arrangement is related to the Christian faith and its life style. After the revolution of 1911, the revolutionary government adopted the solar calendar and introduced the week system. It is said that this is conducive to international exchanges. However, when Chinese people are deeply interacting with the West today, it is found that such handwriting has led to a serious cultural disorder: most Chinese do not have Christian beliefs, and on Sunday evolved into a pure carnival for rest and shopping. In the west, people still keep this habit. As a result, the streets are empty and disappointing. As for westerners, Chinese people are still very happy about the activity on Sunday, and the shops run by Chinese are still operating as usual.

The Chinese need a cultural awareness of clothing. Again, I never object to people's freedom of dress, but in formal occasions with ceremonial character, people, especially elites, have reason to wear Chinese style. Full dress 。 From this, a question is immediately faced. What is this dress? Hanfu, Tang suit, Chinese tunic suit, maybe not. The important thing is to have a sense of cultural subjectivity. With this awareness, the interaction between the elite group and the fashion design industry will certainly give birth to the Chinese style dress that will pass through the ancient and modern times.