The Old Injury Of Textile And Garment Industry Is Mentioned Again: In The Case Of "Environmental Protection Robbery"

Pursuing green environmental protection and reducing energy consumption is a process from quantitative change to qualitative change.

In April 9th, the public environmental research center and Nanjing green stone and other 5 environmental organizations jointly released the "pollution for Shi Shangqing pollution - green choice textile brand supply chain".

According to the survey report, there are serious environmental violations in the supply chain of a large number of textile brands and clothing retailers including Nike, GAP and Lining, and have a serious impact on China's water environment.

This is what happened last year.

In August 2011, the international environmental protection and Greenpeace Organization released the survey results of toxic and harmful substances in global brand clothing.

14 well-known brands of clothing such as Adidas, Lining and Nike have been tested for harmful substances.

Like last year, because of environmental protection, the textile and garment industry once again appeared in the public view.

25 million tons of wastewater

According to the statistics of China Textile Industry Association, in 2010, the total fiber processing in China's textile industry amounted to 41 million 300 thousand tons, accounting for 52%-54% of the world total; the total export volume of textiles and clothing in China amounted to 212 billion US dollars in the whole year, accounting for 34% of the world's total exports.

However, as the "world factory" of textile and garment industry, China will inevitably pollute the environment at the same time of economic development.

China Environmental Statistics Annual Report (2010) shows that in 2010, the textile wastewater discharge amounted to 24.55 million tons, accounting for third of the 39 industrial sectors in the current statistics, accounting for 11.6% of the total wastewater discharge from key survey and statistics enterprises.

In fashion decontamination, China's

The amount of printing and dyeing wastewater accounts for 80% of the total textile wastewater discharge. The composition is complex and may contain a variety of harmful substances.

At the same time, the textile industry lagged far behind most other industries in recycling water, resulting in extremely low efficiency of water use.

Ma Jun, director of the public environment research center further said that in the textile industry, dyeing and finishing wastewater accounted for more than 80%, chemical fiber production wastewater accounted for about 12%, and the other 8% were other textile wastewater (2004 industry estimation data). "From the regional perspective, the total dyeing and finishing wastewater in Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Shandong, Guangdong and Fujian accounted for about 90% of the total dyeing and finishing wastewater discharge in China."

"Cleaning for fashion" also shows that a large number of textile enterprises have environmental violation records, and can not achieve stable discharge.

More than 6000 textile enterprises were included in the pollution map database of China, some of which were punished or not dealt with within a prescribed time because of private pipelines, sewage straight rows, abnormal use of sewage treatment facilities, and excessive discharge of pollutants.

In these enterprises, there are many suppliers of large international and domestic brands.

Specifically, there are illegal brands in the supply chain, including famous brands at home and abroad, such as Nike, H&M, Adidas, BurberryEsprit, CalvinKlein, Armani, etc., including retailers such as Tesco, WAL-MART, Carrefour, Messi general store and Taghit.

"The companies that have not found problems for the time being are Burberry and Yida and they have used our pollution map database very early to supervise their suppliers and urge them to rectify the problem after they find out the problem."

Ma Jun said.

After sorting out the list of suspected suppliers, the environmental protection organization sent relevant questions to the relevant brands, some of them responded positively, but some brands did not respond.

Ma Jun said that the failure of the brand to respond may also be due to objective factors, such as limited time to reply, and much more internal information pfer process, but "some brands did not respond because they were against social supervision."

The research team found that some of the suspected suppliers of ZARA had environmental problems, but ZARA replied, "we regret that we can not respond to individuals, such as schools, universities and professionals, who respond to our business models."

Neglected efforts

Compared with ZARA's "no cooperation", some enterprises responded positively.

"Nike supports the work of the public environmental research center and the relevant Chinese environmental protection organizations to promote the environmental and social responsibility of Chinese enterprises," he said.

Nike is not only using the public information database collected by the public environmental research center, but also requires the supply chain partners in China to pay attention to their behavior.

LEVI 'S also said, "we believe that the database is a useful tool to determine compliance with our Chinese suppliers.

It reveals problems in the industry and helps to focus attention on suppliers who need urgent regulation and participation. "

Lining told the public that the company has been communicating with the public environmental research center and taking action in a relatively short time, and will make more extensive use of public information to retrieve suppliers' environmental performance.

But some people questioned the IPE database.

"There are 6000 textile enterprises and 3500 printing and dyeing enterprises that can be searched, which are all the number of enterprises in the data retrieval repository, not all dangerous enterprises and illegal enterprises.

Indeed, there are a small number of enterprises with low social responsibility and poor environmental awareness, but the mainstream of the printing and dyeing industry is good.

Li Jinbao, President of the China printing and dyeing industry association, said that the report on "fashion cleaning" was misleading the public.

He said that as a research report, we need accurate, scientific and fair data and demonstration process.

"Taking the data and cases 5 years ago to illustrate the current development of the industry is obviously objective and fair."

For example, the report said, "the total amount of wastewater discharged from the textile industry is 19.79 billion tons in 2006 and 24.55 billion tons in 2010."

It is undeniable that the amount of industrial wastewater discharge has increased during the past 4 years, but the report ignores the comparison between the unit capacity and the wastewater discharge volume of printing and dyeing enterprises in 4 years.

In 2010, the output of printing and dyeing fabrics in China's scale printing and dyeing enterprises increased by 60 billion 165 million meters, an increase of 66.13% over that of 2005. The increase in absolute volume partially offset the actual effect of energy saving and emission reduction on the absolute reduction of wastewater discharge. But if we can scientifically compare and reasonably compare the changes in output growth and sewage discharge, it is easy to find the efforts made by China's printing and dyeing industry in terms of energy conservation and emission reduction over the past few years.

In fact, in recent years, in the ecological safety quality of textile products and textile enterprises to achieve progress in energy conservation and emission reduction, in addition to the introduction of some laws and regulations, brand business to promote environmental protection is also an important part.

For example, during the "11th Five-Year" period, the average annual energy consumption of YOUNGOR daily reached 10% and 18.87% in 2009 and 34.38% in 2010 respectively.

In the field of printing and dyeing wastewater treatment, YOUNGOR Sino Japanese textile printing and dyeing company is developing new technology "high efficiency membrane separation technology in water reuse printing and dyeing wastewater treatment technology development and trial".

The experiment shows that the recycling rate of printing and dyeing water is 60-65%.

In fact, strengthening environmental protection and speeding up the adjustment and upgrading of industries are also the internal needs of the development of China's textile and garment industry. Over the past few years, the achievements made by the industry in energy conservation and emission reduction have stood the test.

In pursuing green environmental protection and reducing energy consumption, there is no best, only better. This is a process from quantitative change to qualitative change.