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    Beijing Five Women'S Clothing Brand "Quality Lies"

    2012/6/4 7:34:00 23

    Lane Bryant

    Recently, the Beijing Quality Supervision Bureau released the production area of Beijing.

    Textile and clothing

    Carry out quality supervision and spot check report.

    The results showed that a total of 66 batches of domestic textile and apparel samples were selected. Among them, the measured values of clothing fiber content of 5 enterprises were inconsistent with the indicated values. Some brands of clothing still had unqualified use instructions and unqualified color fastness.

    Reporters interviewed and interviewed the above industry problems and found that the root cause was not caused by the "negligence" of enterprises, but that these enterprises had problems in their own management and industrial chain links.


    In the report of quality supervision and spot checks on textiles and garments produced by the Beijing Quality Supervision Bureau released by the Beijing Municipal Quality Supervision Bureau, it showed that the sampling failed products involved 5 domestic brands such as JIMANNO Ji mano, Yu Bin, olme, kmei and Jing Yao, including underwear, tops, dresses, cotton clothes and so on.


    According to the press survey, small and medium-sized garment enterprises, especially those entrusted with processing, are not strict with their quality control, and their own management and problems in the industrial chain links are the main causes of quality failure.


    Internal management short board


    In the clothing industry, it is a common practice for enterprises to use the commissioned way to process garments.

    Some small and medium-sized garment enterprises lack of quality management consciousness, and the phenomenon of quality instability is more common.

    According to the reporter's investigation, there is also a lack of internal management in Ji mano company.


    Beijing Ji mano Clothing Co., Ltd. (hereinafter referred to as "Ji mano company") is one of the enterprises that issued the Beijing Quality Supervision Bureau.

    The reporter interviewed Zhu, manager of the company's administrative department. She said the incident was caused by negligence within the company's internal procurement department.


    It is understood that the Quality Supervision Bureau of Beijing released the "JIMANNO Ji mano" brand made by Ji mano company in June 2011, and its fiber content was not qualified.

    Zhu told reporters that the actual fiber content of the problem clothing and the difference between the actual detection and tagging 5%, exceeding the permitted scope of the national error.


    Zhu Jing understands and explains that when the batch of garments was inspecting at the cloth, the staff of the purchasing department of Ji mano company mistakenly mixed up two pieces of cloth of very similar color.

    The company made spot checks on ready-made garments, which had not been inspected, resulting in errors.


    But according to the reporter, before entering the sale of clothing, it is necessary to provide qualified product certification reports issued by the testing organization to sell.

    One industry insider told reporters that every shopping mall had different requirements, and this standard was not unified in different shopping malls.


    Reporters in the manmano company's publicity materials to see that the company is a design, production, sales and brand operation as one of the high-end fashion companies, its "JIMANNO Ji mano" for the domestic front-line women's clothing brand.


    According to reporters, Ji manno company does not have its own processing plant, but all the external processing.

    "We have an assessment of the qualification of processing enterprises.

    Our demand for cooperative processing enterprises is that we have to make a domestic line of women's clothing, have formal invoices, meet the technological requirements of the company, and do not consider cooperation for the two or three line brand factory, especially for foreign trade clothing.

    The experience of foreign trade is rather rough. This is experience.

    The company's production department, a person in charge told reporters.


    According to the reporter, Beijing Dongfang Qixing clothing and Clothing Co., Ltd. (hereinafter referred to as "Oriental Wonder Star"), Beijing Jinshui Furong clothing and Clothing Co., Ltd. are both companies commissioned by the company, and cooperation for many years.


    In the garment industry, it is a common practice for enterprises to process Clothing by means of entrustment.

    A Consultation Service Co official who provided production improvement services for the Oriental Star in 2010 told reporters that Montagut, Cagliari, Shu Lang, Ordos and other brands were commissioned by the Oriental Star processing clothing customers.

    However, the head of the company also revealed that the quality management consciousness of some small and medium-sized garment enterprises is lacking, and the phenomenon of quality instability is more common.

    According to the reporter's investigation, there is also a lack of internal management in Ji mano company.


    The way of entrustment is the key to business oversight


    The "negligence" of the procurement department has also made the company pay a price.

    The Beijing Quality Supervision Bureau confiscated the illegal income of the problem clothes and confiscated all the clothes that had not been sold.


    An industry insider told reporters that many domestic clothing companies will usually send their fabrics to quality inspection when they are confirmed.

    The usual practice is that the fiber content of clothing products is generally provided by fabric suppliers, and the brand operators act as the responsible parties of fabric quality inspection and check the responsible parties later.

    However, the problem of clothing quality is also very easy to appear in this link.

    If the brand does not have quality inspection, or the content provided by the fabric supplier is not consistent with the quality inspection results, and the brand does not check it, it is easy to appear the problem of fiber content disqualification.


    There is no doubt that garment enterprises adopt the mode of commission processing, which can configure enterprise resources in a limited way, and reduce the cost by using manufacturing advantages of foundries. This can lighten the burden of brand enterprises.

    But to a certain extent, there are many operational risks in entrustment processing, for example, the quality of products can not be well controlled.


    "In a certain sense, China's industrial elements are very complete, but the integration and allocation capabilities of the industrial chain are not enough, which also leads to the disconnection of products from design to sales, that is, the disconnection of supply chain management.

    Whether it is Chinese enterprises or foreign brand enterprises, it is easy to cause inconsistent product quality.

    Chen Guoqiang, deputy director of the Institute of industrial economics of China Garment Association (micro-blog), told our correspondent.


    At the same time, the "negligence" of the procurement department made the company pay a certain price: the Beijing Quality Supervision Bureau confiscated the illegal income of the problem clothes and confiscated all the clothes that had not been sold.


    The problem of clothing quality is the focus of the public's attention. After the media coverage, the chain reaction has spread rapidly.

    "Sales are down".

    Although it is hard to say that sales decline is directly related to this incident, there are already customers in the store who are shopping guides to inquire about it, Zhu said.


    During the interview, reporters learned that Ji mano company has begun to increase the probability of sampling inspection for garments.

    However, the "change of sheep" has exposed the loopholes in the quality control of garment enterprises.


    Chen Guoqiang said that unlike household appliances, chemical products and other products, the garment industry is changing rapidly, and it is a product with strong personalized demand.

    In the standard execution process, the elasticity is very big.

    And clothing directly contacts with the human body, many standards are particularly demanding, and it is very difficult to execute.


    Cost pressures force garment companies to switch careers


    In recent years, the cost of raw materials and manpower has been rising, but the profits of clothing have not risen, but are still falling.

    Take kolmei company, four or five years ago, a spring and autumn outfit's profit was forty or fifty yuan. In the past two years, even ten or twenty yuan was gone.


    Also explained as "negligence", as well as Beijing Komi Garment Co., Ltd. (hereinafter referred to as "Komi company").

    According to the information released by Beijing Quality Supervision Bureau, a dress of kmei company was found to be unqualified for use, fiber content and dry friction resistance.


    "The staff who washed the water mark reversed the logo."

    Wu Kangshui, director of the company, explained.

    At present, kmei has accepted the punishment of the Beijing Quality Supervision Bureau, which has not been reproduced.


    But for kmei, Wu Kangshui's biggest headache is not his brand's "black list", but no business to do.

    It is understood that the company is the only brand of the company, mainly in Beijing and Beijing suburb at all levels of the market.

    Now, in the highly competitive clothing market, kmei has not even joined the three line brand, and its sales volume is also poor.


    "There is nothing left to do now, and the company may have to switch."

    Wu Kangshui told reporters that since the second half of 2011, KGM has not produced new products.


    It is understood that the company was founded in 2001, although the size of the company is not large, but it is a clothing brand design that integrates clothing design, research and development, production and marketing.


    "Now, the clothing industry is not good enough to do so, and the profit is low. We will check it here today and check it there tomorrow."

    Wu Kangshui told reporters "bitter water", the two years of the clothing market is sluggish, and the survival of small businesses is more difficult.


    The biggest pressure is the cost.

    "In recent years, the cost of raw materials and manpower has been rising, but the profit of clothing has not risen but is still falling."

    Wu Kangshui said, four or five years ago, the profit of a spring and autumn clothing was forty or fifty yuan, which was ten or twenty yuan in two years.


    Profit margins have been squeezed. In order to reduce the risk of cost and inventory, Wu Kangshui said that some small and medium-sized clothing enterprises around him do not make four seasons clothing a year, but do two seasons, or even do only one season.


    Not only in Beijing, but also in some developed areas of clothing industry.

    There are thousands of enterprises engaged in garment processing in Rongcheng County, Baoding, which is located in the triangle hinterland of Beijing, Tianjin and stone. There are also hundreds of large scale enterprises. However, since the Spring Festival this year, many garment factories have been closed down, mainly due to rising costs and reduced orders.


    In early 2012, a survey of clothing industry in some parts of Jiangsu showed that most garment enterprises were "not optimistic" about the development prospects of 2012.

    A clothing industry owner said that now the efficiency of enterprise production is not up to the rate of rising cost, the labor cost in 2011 has increased by about 15% compared with the previous year, and this year there is a trend of continued growth.


    Journalist observation


    Looking for a complete garment industry chain


    Whether imported clothing or local brands, frequent quality problems have become a common problem in the clothing industry.


    In the past two years, the survival environment of China's clothing industry is not optimistic.

    The economic depression, including Europe and the United States, has greatly restricted the export of China's garment industry.

    And domestic expansion of domestic demand requires a process, which is very slow.


    At the same time, the cost of production factors is rising, especially labor costs and raw materials prices, and low carbon and environmental protection requirements will virtually raise production costs again.


    The external environment is stagnant and the cost is rising.

    Compared with large enterprises, the survival pressure of small and medium-sized garment enterprises is bigger, because the scale is small, so the average cost will be higher than that of large enterprises, and the profit space will be smaller.


    "Under such circumstances, enterprises should not only protect the market but also control costs," he said. "It is bound to change their minds in improving technology, reducing costs and improving mechanization."

    Chen Guoqiang, deputy director of the Institute of industrial economics of China Garment Association, said that a very important link is the improvement of labor efficiency, improvement of mechanization level and innovation.

    In this process, enterprises will intentionally or unintentionally appear quality problems.


    However, behind the quality problem, it exposes the shortage of China's clothing industry structure.

    Chen Guoqiang believes that because the industrial chain of China's garment industry is not perfect enough, the market demand of small and medium-sized enterprises is fluctuating, and the cost of scale is high, competitiveness is reduced, and the difficulty is much larger than that of large enterprises.

    "China's clothing industry should not only improve the industrial chain elements, but also form the industrial chain structure.

    Including the export financing of SMEs, strictly speaking, small and medium-sized enterprises have not really entered the industrial chain.


    Chen Guoqiang has made an analogy. Small and medium-sized enterprises, like small boats sailing in the sea, are helpless. If they can form a combined fleet under the guidance of a large ship, they will have a strong ability to resist risks.


    That is to say, China's garment industry needs to form a complete industrial chain with large enterprises as the leader and cooperate with small and medium-sized enterprises.

    "There are many large enterprises in China, but the capability of industrial chain integrity allocation is far less than that of developed countries."


    At present, the competitiveness of China's clothing brand is not strong in the international arena. In the global apparel industry chain, it is still in the processing stage, and is relatively low-end, and lack of effective global resources or supply chain configuration leading enterprises.

    "This has caused foreign brands to come in, we have allocated them to others, and people have to take away our profits."

    In Chen Guoqiang's view, small and medium-sized clothing enterprises should try their best to choose regional development with complete industrial chain allocation, so that it is possible to get rid of the current predicament.

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