Gaultier: A Taboo Designer.

Jean Paul Gaultier's fashion kingdom

In November 13, 2011, a retrospective exhibition entitled "Jean-Paul Gaultier's fashion kingdom" opened at the Dallas Museum of art. The exhibition will last until February next year, and will continue to tour in San Francisco, Madrid and Rotterdam. The exhibition was conceived by MMFA in Montreal, and the curator is Thierry Loriot, a well-known fashion TV producer. In this exhibition, Loriot has several functions. Apart from selecting models and conducting interviews with catalogues (including interviews with Madonna), he has to dig deeper into the background of designers and be responsible for cooperation between museums and brands. As a curator, Loriot told reporters about Jean-Paul Gaultier in her own eyes: "Gaultier is not very optimistic about contemporary fashion trends. He likes to be unique. He often designs new ways of designing clothes and wearing. He called himself an open mind to look at the whole society, which sounds crazy, neurotic and even ridiculous, but in fact, everyone can discover his own personality.

In the fashion world, Gaultier is known as "no taboo designer". He is famous for his shocking art exhibitions. Any form of collocation and design is possible under his own hands. In this exhibition, we can see his iconic tights, as well as the Kylie Minogue, Marilyn Manson, Myl ne Farmer and other celebrities, and even Leslie Cheung's clothing has been displayed in the museum. In 1990, Madonna wore a golden shell cone bra at the golden hair ambition concert. The red brassiere was also shown for the first time since the concert.

Not only that, the exhibition also shows Gaultier's costume sketches designed for many films, including Peter Greenaway's chef, thief, his wife and her lover (1994), Pedro Almod var VaR's "bad education" (2004) and Luc Besson's fifth element (1997). {page_break}

For Gaultier, this exhibition can be said to be the biggest show in his career: "this is the most exciting thing in my life. Over the years, my works have appeared at the same time. It is very challenging to make fashion shows in museums. I want to not only display works, but also try to combine them. This exhibition has nothing to do with commerce, exhibition and T. It represents an art, and this is my lifelong pursuit. I love these dynamic models. I like to listen to them and watch them walk. They are very interesting.

　　 Jean Paul Gaultier: "only passion can make you successful!"

In the spring and summer fashion week of Paris in 2011, Jean-Paul Gaultier presented her farewell as a designer of HERM S, and in 2011, on the spring and summer fashion week in Paris, Jean-Paul Gaultier presented her farewell as a HERM S designer. After leaving his own brand for 7 years, he seems to have no hesitation. Instead, he has started to run his brand with all his strength. Since then, the fashion industry has been holding its breath to look forward to Gaultier's new work, and he has not failed to meet expectations, and has launched a series of well designed and creative designs, including the exhibition. These are enough to prove that he has returned to the best condition.

2011 autumn and winter men's wear series, Gaultier idol hero James. Bond was inspired by the familiar heroes 007 wearing blonde hair, wearing fishnet socks, and changing into a blonde, and the whole fashion world was stunned. He said: "I like to mix all kinds of elements, for example, I will print in general only in women's clothing in men's and women's clothing design, or will combine sex with classic, such as elegant appearance of casual wear. Just like Ming is a solemn coat or elegant skirt, its shape is pajamas. But don't get me wrong. As long as it's the exclusive style of Jean-Paul Gaultier, even pajamas are elegant. He laughed like a naughty boy.

In the design of the 2012 autumn winter women's wear series, Gaultier tends to wear luxurious and durable designs, such as bicolor felt fur coats, wild sweaters, fur coat windbreaker, etc. Those seemingly young models wore an old woman's fluffy wig and dressed in mature clothes. When they appeared, the models waved their overcoat and threw it to the pile of clothes at the end of T. This has also been remembered for 2012 fashion week.

Speaking of the design of women's wear, Gaultier said, "it's like fighting against genes. I want you to look younger than your age! If you were actually born in 1950s, I will make you look younger than 20 years old." is childish and immature a new trend in this era? I can't help asking. "Yes, I will lead you back to your childhood and adolescence. We will live and dream like children. For me, having dreams can mean passion. Without passion, anything is hard to achieve. Everything is possible with passion. " He was so excited that he danced like a child and his eyes sparkled.

So the grey hair on the heads of the models is also the embodiment of youth? Gaultier shook his head on this question: "you know, earlier, gray hair was very popular, even young people of 20 years old liked it very much. Young girls wear gray wings and smear white powder on their hair. I hope to blurred the boundaries between age and combine fashion factors of different ages. In my opinion, no matter how many years old can be very fashionable, but also have a childlike innocence, have their own dreams.

Speaking of the latest trend of the season, Gaultier also gives some of her dress suggestions: "I recommend that every woman should wear a pair of women's trouser suits, because they are easy to match and make you look feminine and masculine. You just need to remember one thing, that is, don't wear clothes that make you feel uncomfortable. I suggest that women can also try to draw inspiration from many cultures, whether classic, folk or Slavic or Asian. Everything is possible, but the premise is that you should be passionate. Only passion can make you successful! "{page_break}

Grandmother's prophecy

Most people live a life of bland life. Some people still maintain their ingenuity. They not only try to change their surroundings, but also want to change the whole world, so is Jean-Paul Gaultier. How did he do it? The answer lies in his childhood.

Gaultier, born in France in 1952, was the only child in his family. His parents in the accounting profession wanted him to become a teacher. He tried to shake off his parents' influence on him before he reached adulthood. Think of family, Gaultier is full of gratitude: "I have a colorful childhood, then I was very happy. I grew up in a family full of love. My grandmother respects my thoughts very much. No matter what I want to do, she allows me to do it. Gaultier's grandmother Marie Garrabe is a hypnotic and faith therapy physician who encourages Gaultier to design his sketches and costumes. In 1993, he launched his first perfume, which was designed by himself, inspired by his Basque costume designed for Madonna. In fact, the inspiration for this fashion comes from his memory of grandma. Gaultier spent a lot of time growing up with her grandmother. He was deeply impressed by the tights she wore.

However, Gaultier's childhood still has a small shadow. He admitted that he was reluctant to go to school when he was little. "I will not be happy in school because they think I am a daydream guy, and I am not good at sports such as football, so I always suffer from their cold shoulder."

I could not believe that my childhood dream alone made him determined to be a fashion designer. In the face of my confusion, Gaultier said, "my grandmother allows me to watch TV, and allows me to watch the programs of adults. One night, I saw the first performance of Folies Bergere, and I was deeply impressed by the female models wearing netted and feathered costumes. So, on the second morning, when I was in class, I began to imagine everything I saw that night. Because of this, in the latest women's show, the girls took off their coats after the appearance. Gaultier said it was inspired by striptease, "like a surprise." They take off a piece of clothing, and there will be another one inside. So I can constantly show my clothes, that's the reason. He answered with a smile.

Gaultier was punished by the teacher for painting in the school. At that time, he had already realized the influence of drawing on him. Punishment also allowed Gaultier to discover its potential in acting. "I was caught by the teacher while I was painting. In order to punish me, he put my paintings on my back and let me walk around the classroom. Strangely, my classmates didn't make fun of me. On the contrary, they liked my paintings very much. From that day on, they always asked me to draw something for them. I realize that my paintings and talents can bring happiness to others.

The impact of childhood on Gaultier career is far more than that. "At the age of nine, I watched the Jacques Becker movie" Fibulas "with my grandmother. This old film was taken in 1940. The story happened in a fashion shop in Paris. It tells the story between a young girl and a designer named Philippe Clarence. The designer is a shameless person who idleness every day. In order to seek inspiration in design, he always seduce different women without feeling any emotion. However, this girl made him feel the true love for the first time. The movie also shows the audience a vivid fashion world. It is the fashion show that makes me think of fashion designers.

Gaultier's grandmother had killed her grandson. What did she predict? Did all these predictions come true? "It's all realized!" Gaultier laughs. "She told me that I would become famous one day, and that every day there would be beauty, and life would be very pleasant. I will travel to many places. These are all fulfilled. " I asked him if he learned the same skills from his grandmother. He laughed and laughed. "I may have feelings about magic and subconscious, but I am not interested in studying them. That is why I can only know what will happen in the next season, and can not predict what will happen to mankind in the next century. In other words, I am weak in this field, but I will try my best to perform a magic trick for you next time.

A fearless rebel.

Recalling the way I have traveled over the past 35 years, Jean-Paul Gaultier is always full of emotion. Young Gaultier did not read in the Fashion Institute, nor did they receive formal training. All the way to today depends on his self-learning. After finishing his studies, he sent his sketches to different clothing shops and designers. Pierre Cardin was so impressed by his paintings that he decided to accept him as an assistant. "In 1970, I started to play Pierre Cardin, which happened to be my 18 year old birthday. In fashion, I never flinch. " Gaultier recalls.

It is said that Pierre Cardin has criticized Gaultier's style of being somewhat vulgar, which does not seem to affect Gaultier's respect for the master. "Mr. Cardin is my mentor. When I was a child, I was worshiped under his door. Now all my achievements are worshipped by him, so I will not gossip. He is a real master and scholar in fashion. In fact, he did not like my sketches for artists and musicians, which I quite understand. Don't forget that he is in a different era with us. He represents only his age. There will be no independent women in that era. But if we don't have Madonna and Lady Gaga, things will be very bad. He said.

Before Gaultier first released his first clothing series in 1976, he worked for some French design companies and fashion designers such as Jacques Esterel and Jean Patou. It was not until 1980s that he gradually adapted to the non mainstream culture of young people in London. He transformed his casual clothes, remolded the traditional design, and created interesting and comfortable works. His integration of classical and unconventional factors made him very popular among gay communities, fashionable students and professional women.

At the end of the 1980s, he was known for his bizarre style and unusual models, including obese, year old female models and tattoos. He said: "things are not as people want to be. I do not want to save money and do not invite top models. In fact, I just want to show that fashion is not only for the good society, but also for the ordinary people. Designing clothes for a model weighing 100 kilograms requires more cloth than for those elegant models, but I like unusual things. I think beauty is not only a feature, but also a reflection of beauty. A fat woman can also be seen on the T stage, which I want to see. "

In 1985, Jean Paul Gaultier designed his first men's shirt. He wanted to break the boundary between men and women by this shirt. In the autumn and winter series of 1988, he launched a series of clothes called Vikings collection. The male models wore short skirts and appeared as women. This image became a legendary topic and exhibited at the Metropolitan Museum of art in New York. This is just one of his many exhibitions in his design career, and it also proves that his design style has been highly praised long ago.

In the early 1990s, Gaultier began to create his typical image, the floating T-shirt with blond hair and white and blue stripes. In 1996, the poster man (Pin Up Boys) used the Sexy Sailor image of homosexuals to launch pink and blue Finland style clothes and quickly became the fashion trend of clubs in London, Paris and New York. This series has drawn great inspiration from the unrelated India royalty and the kirstad Judaism. At the same time, the series brought him a new job -- HERM S hired him as creative director in 2003. At that time, Gaultier has been firmly established in the industry and is known as the "bad boy" in the fashion industry. His experience inspires and inspires many followers, including John Galliano and Alexander McQueen.

Speaking of the famous "bad boy" title, Gaultier said, "in my professional field, I am a bad boy. In real life, I am quiet and considerate, but in the fashion world, quiet character will not bring you any achievement, that is why I must become a fearless rebel.