China'S Creative Voice To The World'S Clothing Industry
Designer and industry grow together
In October of this year,
China International Fashion Week
The 15th anniversary celebration will be held.
So far, China's international fashion week has produced 137 "China top ten fashion designers" and 14 "Golden Summit" winners.
From the early days of Zhang Zhaoda, Wu Haiyan, Liu Yang, Wu Xuewei and Zhang Jicheng to the medium-term Fang Ying, Wu Xuekai, Ji Wenbo, Luo Zheng, Liang Zi, Hui, Jie, and then to the near future, the designers who stand out from the fashion week stage become the representatives of many fashion design fields such as women's wear, men's wear, advanced order, knitted garments and so on. Among them, some designers are the backbone of the brand enterprises, while others become the helmsman of the designer brand.
The growth of Chinese designers is closely related to the development of industry.
In November 2006, Luo Zheng, the founder and designer of the brand of the European brand, won the tenth Golden Summit Award. After a year, Liang, the design director of Tianyi brand, held a gold medal in China International Fashion week.
The two women's designers come from Shenzhen, a women's clothing base.
In the past 10 years, from Shenzhen manufacturing to Shenzhen design and Shenzhen creation, Shenzhen garment industry has embarked on a road of independent innovation and participation in international and domestic competition.
Today, there are more than 3000 garment enterprises and 1200 self created brands in Shenzhen.
A number of domestic brands with international competitiveness continue to grow.
Wu Haiyan and Qi Gang, the designers of the Golden Summit, have witnessed the development of Hangzhou silk and Hangzhou women's clothing industry.
In July 2007, the 10 year "China outstanding women's designer discovery plan" was launched in Hangzhou.
The Hangzhou municipal government has set up a special fund for the plan.
It is the first time that designers have been included in the long-term urban development plan.
In the past 5 years, the plan has not only trained a number of excellent designers for Hangzhou, but also promoted the adjustment of Hangzhou's industrial structure and enhanced Hangzhou's soft power and competitiveness with the high-end of women's clothing industry.
Now, this huge talent project with strategic significance for the development of Hangzhou silk and women's clothing industry has achieved initial success. 24 designers have returned home after studying abroad for a year, or they have become the backbone of the design business of the brand enterprise, or have opened their own career.
With the continuous growth of the mainland economy, the new middle class consumer groups have been nurtured, providing huge market opportunities for high quality lifestyle products, attracting many Hong Kong and Taiwan designers and brands to enter the fashion industry in the mainland, aiming at the mainland consumers.
Li Xiaoyan, the designer who won the Golden Summit Award in 2009, is one of the best representatives of Taiwan designers to enter the fashion industry in the mainland.
She said that although she was a designer in Taiwan, she was based on the mainland market.
Benefiting from the development of domestic urbanization and upgrading of consumption, the fast growing menswear has become the main force in the clothing industry.
In the three major industrial clusters of China's men's wear market, the "Fujian Department" business men's clothing brand represented by seven wolves and Li Lang has been actively promoting brand promotion and retail channel expansion, becoming the representative brand of Chinese business men's clothing.
Since 2000, he has been a designer of Lee Lang brand. He experienced this brand growing up, maturing, and going public.
In November 2004, Ji Wen Bo won the Golden Summit Award, which was first awarded to men's designers.
Today, CABBEEN and Wang Yutao joined the "Golden Summit" designers in 2010 and 2011 respectively.
Moreover, a group of men's wear designers have become the backbone of the development of the industry.
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In recent years, the company has launched its brand in Milan men's wear week and Tokyo fashion week.
He put the next goal on the designer brand.
He said: "for a brand, it is the first step towards international development, and the Li Lang has done a lot of attempts these years."
After the establishment of the designer brand, to become a real international brand, not just an international brand, it is indispensable to conduct regular releases in the international fashion field in the future.
Designer and designer brand
When China fashion week came to 10th anniversary in 2007, Wang Qing, chairman of the China Fashion Designers Association, talked about the development of local design and brand. "With the overcapacity of industrial production and the change of consumption demand, the accumulation of commercial capital and knowledge capital is expanding rapidly, which is famous for chain sales and product design."
Local brand
It will develop rapidly.
From the current situation, the industrial brand is expanding to the chain operation and processing production, while the designer brand is in the best period of creation and growth.
Looking forward to the future, 10 years later, China's clothing consumption market will form a complementary situation of industrial brand, foreign brand and designer brand competition.
For Chinese designers to create an international designer brand, Didier, President of the Paris High Fashion Association, has expressed a cautious attitude: "China has an industrial marketing brand, but in terms of designer's brand, whether it can play the designer's potential very well and create a brand with international design features, it is now inconclusive, it takes time." "Grumbach,"
These 10 years are undoubtedly the 10 years of the rapid development of Chinese designer brand and design brand, and also the 10 year of designer brand's gradual integration with the international market.
Among Chinese designers, Xie Feng, the design director of Beijing Jifen Fashion Co. Ltd., though not the first to have his own brand, was the first to take the brand to the international stage.
In the fashion week of Paris in October 2006, Xie Feng made his debut with his brand, Jifen.
"For this moment, I have worked with my peers for 20 years."
He said.
Xie Feng wrote in his blog: "standing on the international stage, the cost of opening a conference is huge.
This first requires strong economic strength.
To do such a conference depends entirely on the improvement of China's overall economic level, thanks to having enough capital to enter the world stage. Otherwise, our ideology and culture will be difficult to accomplish in the field of fashion design.
Without initial capital, it is hard to have the right to speak.
Nowadays more Chinese designers have the capital to enter the international arena.
In 2010 and 2011, Showroom, a fashion designer in Hangzhou, took part in the exhibition of contemporary Chinese creativity in Paris. He brought a series of brand tailored for the European market.
Shi said: "the high-end series I do is considering docking with European market from artistic and cultural aspects.
In my opinion, the key to the products and brands that are accepted internationally is not the price level, but the brand and design should have a humanistic connotation. Behind the clothing is the expression of people's pursuit of life concepts and lifestyles.
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Over the past 10 years, the concept of advanced customization has been advanced.
Designer
The emergence and popularity of the people.
In 2006, Guo Pei launched the first high fashion show in China fashion week. She made a dress that cost 50 thousand working hours. The shock, surprise, controversy and so on aroused people's focus on the concept of China's advanced custom fashion.
Since then, Guo Pei has launched the series of "one thousand and two night" and "Chinese bride" series in 2009 and 2012.
She thinks that advanced customization is the ideal of a designer, but at the same time designers can expand this ideal.
She said: "in the future, I want to divide the brand into three categories: one is the high-end, it needs to convey a style through the extreme performance, a height that the world can see; the two is the middle end brand, so that the common people can afford it; the three is the semi customized brand, for example, let the bride express some personal feelings at the most important moment."
As early as more than 10 years ago, Wu Haiyan not only put forward the design but also had the brand. She also set up her own design company.
She said, "we are talking about brands just about clothing brands.
And Europe is different, they have processing brand, weaving brand, printing and dyeing brand, each industry chain's middle port has brand. "
It is the prospect and strength of the design brand. During the 10 years, the Chinese clothing industry grew up with the design brand represented by Wu Haiyan and Wu Xuekai.
10 years ago, Wu Xuekai's identity was still the director of brand design for Shan Shan Men's wear, and now his own design company is getting bigger and bigger.
Wu Xuekai said: "the needs of consumers are changing rapidly. Designers must face changes in the industry to enhance their adaptability.
When more designers come into contact with the foreign fashion industry, open their eyes, see the gap between themselves and foreign countries, and urge themselves to adapt to change, so that every day's progress can be achieved.
Fashion design education in China
At present, the ranks of Chinese fashion designers are in an unprecedented period of growth. This is the fruit of China's clothing design education after many years of development.
Correspondingly, there are hundreds of schools in the country that have set up clothing design major, and there are thousands of clothing design professionals for the society every year.
At the same time, China's clothing higher education based on industrial development is faced with the position of timing the situation to meet and adapt to the development of the new era.
In July 2004, the nineteenth global ESMOD schools in France and the Beijing ESMOD high fashion art school were founded in Beijing.
This means that with the strong support of the Chinese and French governments, the French ESMOD High Fashion Institute, known as the "world fashion industry Harvard University", has successfully made the first step in landing China.
In the past 10 years, the introduction of high-quality educational resources abroad and the launching of Sino foreign cooperation in running schools have become a way to improve the quality of running schools and integrate into the global education.
In this respect, Donghua University has gone out of its own characteristics.
Over the past 10 years, the Institute of fashion design and art of Donghua University has established close international cooperation with 23 famous clothing and art schools in 10 countries, and has carried out close cooperation including undergraduate education, postgraduate education and curriculum cooperation.
Among them, the Sino Japanese cooperation mode of cooperation with the Japanese culture and Clothing Institute has successfully created the first course of undergraduate education for clothing talents in China.
2008 is the Olympic year of China, and also the harvest year of the design team of Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology.
The 2008 Beijing Olympic Games and Paralympic Games uniforms (including staff, volunteers, technical officials clothing three categories), Olympic torch relay clothing, Chinese athletes' awarding dress, the awarding ceremony and etiquette clothing "blue and white porcelain" series, Paralympic Games entry clothing and other 5 kinds of clothing were completed by the Academy.
In addition, the designers of Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology also participated in the design of Shenzhou spacesuit, including the design of sleeping bag pattern, the color matching design of spacesuit and the development of shoes in the cabin.
These achievements have been benefited from the continuous improvement of the teaching mode and curriculum system of Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology, that is, the combination of art design and engineering technology, the combination of creative design and product design, the combination of school teaching and social practice.
The "fashion day of university students" held in April 1, 2012 is unique to our students.
Originality
The design works add a touch of color to China fashion week.
6 famous fashion colleges in China have launched a special press conference for outstanding graduates, and more than 150 outstanding 2012 graduates have displayed their design works.
This is the first time that fashion week has launched the "college publishing" section. With the help of fashion week's social attention, brand awareness and industrial influence, it has set up a stage for university graduates to display their design talents, and has also built a good bridge between colleges and enterprises and the market.
"Innovation is the soul of fashion industry, and creative talents are the foundation of fashion industry.
In the future, we can refer to the four major international fashion week differentiation functions, or learn from the London Fashion Week's promotion mechanism for young designers, and let China Fashion Week become the source of Chinese fashion design and fashion culture, bringing China's fashion brands, excellent designers and their creative designs to the world.
Liu Yuanfeng, vice president of China Fashion Designers Association and Dean of Beijing Fashion Design Institute, said.
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