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Independent Brand Designer Wang Daren

2012/12/15 14:25:00 178

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Fashion Design Wang Daren Independent Brand

After P, people need to introduce Wang Daren Alexander Wang independent brand designer, and Balenciaga's creative director. 
A month ago, Nicolas Ghesquiere, who had been sitting in the creative director's position for 15 years, announced that she would officially leave in November 30th. He has been the designer of the Paris family's secondary line since 1995 and became the creative director of Paris family in 1997. 
The meaning of Nicolas Ghesquiere to the Paris family is recognized as second only to the founder of Cristobal Balenciaga. In addition to the good inheritance and development of the design style of the Paris family, and after being designed in 2000, he became the most famous single product motorcycle bag of Paris. In recent years, the sales volume of Paris family has maintained a two digit growth rate, and its brand size has expanded 11 times than that of GUCCI group (now PPR group) in 2001. 
 after the announcement of Nicolas Ghesquiere's departure, who will be his successor has become a heated topic in the fashion circle. 
 Christopher Kane was once recognized as the new design director of the house of Paris. He is only 2 years older than Wang Daren, and has his own brand name. He is also the designer of Versace's Versus. But almost when he denied joining the Paris family, Christopher Kane also broke up with Versus friendship and focused entirely on her brand. 
Besides P, Mary Katrantzou and Joseph Altuzarra have also appeared in the "corner list" of Isabelle Guichot, the chief executive of the Paris family. They are all independent designers with the same name brand and were born in 1983. 
 big brands have become accustomed to identifying their creative directors in the circle of independent designers. Before Dior formally announced Raf Simons as its creative director in April 2012, Wang Daren and another Chinese American independent designer, Jason (Wu), were also considered to be strong competitors. Raf 
 but this change is not as sudden as people think. According to Suzy Menkes, the relationship between designers and fashion houses has become market-oriented since Karl Lagerfeld took over Chanel 30 years ago and took the road of profitability. "Designers are no longer the soul of brands. They become chattels, hired and fired, and even expelled from the brands that engrave their names. 
"P > now, Wang Daren will also have a new title outside the founder of Alexander Wang. 
In May 2012, when p was interviewed, Wang Daren did not rule out the possibility of his own brand or his large group. But he knows very well that there are always two sides to things. "In a big group, you may grow faster and have more money to do the market and shop, but you will always feel that you are an employee, not a boss." 
 brand will buy the designer as a commodity, that is, there is a clear demand for their business value to revitalize the brand or enhance the existing profitability of the brand. If not, designers will probably be swept away in the spring cleaning. 
"P", which was acquired by the GUCCI group in 2001, began to suffer similar pressure from Nicolas Ghesquiere. 
 2004, was Robert Polet of president of Unilever frozen food department. He was called "ice cream man" behind him. He became president of GUCCI group. For the group's Alexander McQueen, Paris family and Stella McCartney brands lost 110 million euros in 2003, Robert Polet gave them orders: if the profits could not be realized during the 3 year observation period, the group would consider selling these brands. 
 fortunately, Nicolas Ghesquiere achieved great success in the autumn and winter series in 2005. It not only realized profits, but also received the attention of Anna Wan Anna (Wintour) and Madonna, Jennifer Connelly and Niicole Kidman. 
 but for the Nicolas Ghesquiere growing up from the designer of "a href=" http://www.91se91.com/news/index_f.asp "_xhe_href=" http://www.91se91.com/news/index_f.asp "fashion" /a "house", the contradiction between business and design has been disturbing him. 
 according to reports, the departure of Nicolas Ghesquiere may have planted seeds more than a year ago. Nicolas Ghesquiere was then involved in some financial problems, and at the same time expressed dissatisfaction with the strengthening of commercialization of some products in the family. This is a matter of principle for Nicolas Ghesquiere - the PPR group's bias towards business and the attitude of design professionals will one day affect its own development. So he finally chose to leave. 
 these are not easy to become the concerns of successor Wang Daren. 
 for the young man who started his own brand only 7 years ago, his generation of designers not only can design good things, but also the designer himself must be an excellent salesman. "In my opinion, fashion is clothes that wear. In the end, the key is to sell the product. " In Wang Daren's understanding of fashion, design and Commerce have never been separated. This makes him always put the function of clothes in the first place when designing, and consider all the business factors of cost and acceptability of pricing. 
 Wang Daren is the real designer who cares about sales. When the first series is hung in the store, he will rush into the store immediately to see where his clothes are hung and who bought them. He is very familiar with the social circle in the upper east side of New York, and becomes the same with the stars and models of his age. Wang Daren himself can bring enough brand influence. 
 "we want to find a person who has global thinking. He is a global citizen who knows the digital world and knows the future direction of retail and fashion." Isabelle Guichot describes the new creative director of the Paris family she is looking for. Wang Daren had an appetite for her - the young designer was born not only in the digital world, but also in the world. This is what Wang Daren is doing for his brand, Alexander Wang. 
Since P was founded in 2005, Alexander Wang currently owns a flagship store in New York and Beijing, and has opened 9 direct outlets in Asia, with more than 200 sales outlets worldwide. At the same time, Alexander Wang's own e-commerce website currently supports 50 countries, and its network sales platform, which is cooperated with luxury electric business Yoox group, has expanded its product sales to 23 countries, including France, Britain and Italy. At present, Internet sales account for 30% of the sales of Alexander Wang. 
 this is the next thing that the Paris family should do. 
P has opened 12 stores in Italy, Japan, the United States and China last year, and now there are 65 stores in the world. According to the plan of the Paris family, the expansion rate of stores in the next few years will be maintained at around 10 to 15 per year. At the same time, e-commerce and top buyer stores are also the sales channels that will be laid down by Paris. 
 in the coming year, Paris family plans to open the Chinese market in an all-round way. Wang Daren can remember people more than any foreign name. 
 "Alexander Wang is very young, but has a global perspective. His Chinese ancestry and his growing experience in the United States are very helpful. This allowed him not only to have the talent of designing products that he accepted, but also to integrate into the culture of the Paris family. PPR Group CEO Francois-Henri Pinault said. 
The idea of Isabelle Guichot is more specific. "Alexander Wang's lateral development in all fields is also a great advantage for him. He has great interest in garment design and is also good at accessory design." Alexander Wang won the CFDA Accessories Designer Award in 2010 and 2011. 
 "there are many things that can be inherited from the tradition of the Paris family. What we are doing now is only a small part, which is obviously not enough." In the plan of Isabelle Guichot, Paris family will devote more energy to men's wear, footwear, perfume, jewelry, glasses and other product lines. 
 Karl Lagerfeld also agrees with the choice of Isabelle Guichot. "If you want to find a designer to replace Nicolas Ghesquiere, the best way is to choose a stylistic designer. If Francois-Henri Pinault wants to expand the market, Alexander Wang is definitely the most suitable candidate. His works are easier to control, and his personality is also very open and very good at communication. 
 but for < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/pioneer/" _xhe_href= "http://www.91se91.com/pioneer/" > Wang Daren < /a >, there is another thing to consider now: how to develop Alexander Wang brand. 
When p announced the appointment of the new creative director, "Alexander Wang will continue to perform its own independent fashion brand responsibilities at the same time as a new position of Paris." This means that Wang Daren should not only quickly adapt to the style and culture of the Paris family but also look at the business that he is on the rise. 
Before P, more independent designers joined the luxury group because their own brands were acquired, such as the previous Jil Sander, or belong to the PPR group's Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney. This can really save many designers' energy to manage business, but the pressure of capital groups on profits is also unbearable to them. This is often the reason why they left later. 
 but now more designers are maintaining the independence of their brands while they are the "Directors" of big brands, such as LV's Marc Jacobs and Raf Simons, which just joined Dior. They proved that they could do well. 
 for Wang Daren, the advantage is that he had dug Rodrigo Bazan from Marc Jacobs 4 years ago, and is now president of Alexander Wang, which can save him a lot of time and energy in business. And what is most important now is the first appearance of creative director of Paris family from 2013 to 2014 in Paris fashion week. He has little time left. 
 "I want to see immediately the archives of the Paris family and understand the culture behind the brand." Isabelle Guichot said she and Wang Daren had just talked about the new creative director's cooperation, and Wang Daren had already entered the position of the director. "Of course he can. Even sleeping on those files is fine." 
 the "a href=" http://www.91se91.com/news/index_c.asp "_xhe_href=" http://www.91se91.com/news/index_c.asp "Nicolas Ghesquiere" /a "just leaving the Paris family" is preparing to concentrate on running its own brand. In December 4th, he opened his personal account on Twitter.