Home >

Zhu Hongsheng, The Last Shanghai Tailor For Cheongsam

2013/3/22 11:26:00 18

??? 日本語 Fran?ais English 中文

Zhu Hongsheng, P, aged 95, took an old pair of scissors and glided along the upper reaches of the flat "a href=" http://www.91se91.com/ "target=" _blank "cloth" /a "upstream. His eyesight is amazing, even without wearing glasses, you can accurately see the size of the person. He was called the "Shanghai style cheongsam walking dictionary" and "the last Shanghai tailor" by his younger generation. He had sewed five thousand cheongsam for a lifetime. 
 Zhu Hongsheng was born in 1918. When he was 13 years old in Suzhou, he went to Shanghai with his family. His parents chose him a tailor who would not be caught in the sun and rain. Neighbors saw him naughty and active, saying that he could not bear to be bored. Sooner or later, he would run back to his hometown. After listening to his disapproval, he made "old tailor" from "little tailor". 
 old tailor Zhu Hongsheng likes to look after himself gracefully. For decades, the hair has been combed back and forth. < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/" target= "_blank" > clothes < /a > always ironed irregularly. Even if he did not see him at home, he would fasten the cuff button on his shirt. 
 this is probably a professional habit. In the past 80 years, he has dressed up three generations of women, from Hu Die, Han Jingjing and Song Meiling in the 30s and 40s to Dong Jie, Leanne Liu, Meng Tingwei, and Matsui Nahoko, Matsui Nahoko and other foreign artists. "His cheongsam is like skin." Meng Tingwei recalls. 
 ten years of western style. 
 in the 30 era of the last century, when Zhu Shunxing was an apprentice at the Zhu Shunxing tailor shop, he arrived at the shop at seven o'clock every morning. Master taught him to fold up three layers of cloth and use needles without thread to pierced cloth and practice stitches. The boy did needlework, but at first he was not allowed to put on a regular basis and was often bleeding. Hand holding scissors often hold no direction. 
"P >, thus, the days of working apprenticeship for master continued for six years, 19 years old, and he started a women's dress, which coincides with the 30s Qipao flourishing age. According to Zhu Hongsheng, at that time, the a href= "http://www.91se91.com/" target= "_blank" > the clothing < /a > was divided into two factions: the Ningbo gang and the Su Gang. The Ningbo Gang is famous for making western style clothes, while Su Bang is famous for making cheongsam, and Shanghai's Qipao belongs to Su bang. There are many tailor shops on both sides of the road. There are more than 20 cheongsam produced by the day. 
 "in the 20s of last century, ten women wore four cheongsam, and almost all wore cheongsam in 30s. From the age of 15, ladies and gentlemen, stage stars are wearing cheongsam. Compared with Jiangsu and Zhejiang, Shanghai people have a wide eyesight and high grade, and the Qipao worn is also very exquisite. Zhu Hongsheng said in an interview. 
People usually wear cheongsam when they are old than P, so they are mainly comfortable. The collar height is generally less than three centimeters, and the style is large. Ordinary people wear cheongsam mostly low slit, stars are more careful, for the sake of figure, slit is slightly higher, while social flowers prefer more exposed slit. In terms of fabric, cotton and satin are the most traditional and ubiquitous. Silk is more expensive, and stars are much more dressed. 
 starring in the movie "singing the red peony" and "sister flower" and so on. In the 30s of last century, Hu Die, a very popular movie star, was an early customer of Zhu Hongsheng. When he was an unknown apprentice, he went to Hu Die's house with his master to make cheongsam for himself. He recalled the first time he went into the house of Hu Die's house, and saw the tiny Hu Die. "The appearance is very beautiful, the voice is thin, very cordial and easy-going, there is no movie star's shelf. She had a lot of material and was sent by others, so she found many tailors to make cheongsam for her. 
 old Shanghai's "song of a generation" and "public lover", and later become Han Jingjing of Liang Shiqiu's wife is also the old patron of Chu Hongsheng. Han Jingjing's old house in North Sichuan Road is very close to where Zhu Hongsheng lived. With the introduction of others, Zhu Hongsheng began to make cheongsam for her. "There are many silk fabrics in her cheongsam. Most of the cheongsam of life is basically long and used for everyday wear. All her cheongsam is made by me, and she never asks for change. She has no airs, and treats me like her own, and invites me to go to her house for dinner. 
 Fashion "Qipao" .
The age of "P > Zhu Hongsheng's cheongsam is the era of the old and new style of cheongsam style. The basic characteristics and elements of cheongsam have been slowly settling down, and the combination of Chinese and Western cutting has begun to combine. 
 in his eyes, the cheongsam in Shanghai is the best embodiment of Chinese characteristics both in its edition style and in its work style. In 1949, he was sent to the shop in Hongkong for cheongsam. He saw Hongkong cheongsam far less than Shanghai, "rough workmanship, not pay attention to, the style is careless. In the beginning of 1949, cheongsam in Hongkong gradually improved because it went to many Shanghai teachers. 
The development of cheongsam (P) has been on the decline since the 50s of last century. The people wearing Qipao suddenly dropped, as if the gorgeous clothes would be out of line with the declining times. Most of the tailor's business was to cut the cheongsam into a coat. "We can't do a few months in a month, and the number is reduced by more than a half. Making cheongsam is mainly for the national dignitaries or people who go abroad to perform. 
"P" Qipao went through the cold winter after the 80s of last century, and there were great changes in the pattern after revival. Zhu Hongsheng also began to think about improving cheongsam. In the eyes of his apprentice, Zhu Hongsheng was very young and never kept old. "He contacted all kinds of people in the market and kept his words in mind. The drawings brought by foreigners could be seen. He also watched TV, newspapers and fashion magazines. He also discussed with us how modern cheongsam should do. He always said that his cheongsam was deficient and should be improved. The apprentice said. 
 Zhu Hongsheng used to make cheongsam for celebrities. The most important thing is comfort. Even the stars such as Hu Die and Han Jingjing did not make many requests. At most, they only made the collar seven centimeters, so that the neck looked tall and straight, and the slit was slightly taller, showing the slender legs. 
 since the 90s of last century, modern styles such as shoulder, back, fish tail have been applied in a new look. "Now there are women who wear cheongsam to crowded buses. The hem can be smaller and show their stature. Modern people do not often wear cheongsam, so they attach great importance to cheongsam and naturally require more. We should pay special attention to the charm of Qipao. Zhu Hongsheng also began to keep pace with the times. 
 compared with traditional cheongsam, he prefers improving money. "The old cheongsam is too old to be comfortable and fashionable. I can accept these modern styles, but I seldom do them because this style is very demanding on the figure, and the beautiful and tall people are beautiful. 
 now, Zhu Hongsheng has more than ten disciples in his lifetime, and the biggest disciple has retired, but he has not stopped yet. Shortly after the movie "the mood for love" was released, he grabbed the disciple and bought a CD. He praised the movie's < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_f.asp" > Qipao "/a" style with good taste and taste. The only shortcoming is that the slit is too high for the stage and can not be worn in life.