There Is A Clear Contrast Between The Old Fashions And The Strong Business Atmosphere.

< p > in the prosperous Shanghai Bay commercial area at the junction of Pudong South Road and Zhang Yang Road, Song Liansheng, who calls himself "craftsman", runs a 20 square meter Chinese clothing shop "Zi Yue".

Woodcut plaque, carved tiles, Longmen hangers support the blue and white porcelain buttons button up the cotton padded jacket, so that the shop looks like a simple, self flavour, and strong business atmosphere around the obvious contrast.

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Song Liansheng, who was about 40 years old, was dressed in a long gown with a long hair and a long tail when he arrived at the door of the long gown. "P".

He called him "old song" because he listened kindly.

In Lotus shop, lotus roots are made into flowers, engraved plates are printed, gravel grinders are adornment, and the decoration is simple and elegant. The mixture of sandalwood and green tea lingers in the aftertaste of a busy market. Scattered porcelain pieces and broken wood on the table cause the interest of manual labor.

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< p > friends visited Old Song Dynasty.

Before leaving, I searched the location with Google map on the Internet.

After entering the address, the shop name appeared, but it was not "Confucius" but "day".

"Young people misunderstand the shop name is a common occurrence." Lao song complained slightly. "Such plaque and the way of printing and printing must be read from right to left. How about this traditional sense of common sense?"

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< p > 2009, in the advertising industry, plain old song dynasty resigned and opened shop, buried in the needle work, and changed from "printing and dyeing tailor".

He had no family, no teacher, no school, and he ran all over the countryside in search of folk literature. He searched for ancient documents such as "Kao Gong Ji" and so on. He gradually restored the use of traditional handicrafts such as engraving, watermark and valiant in Chinese clothing, especially in Chinese men's wear. He not only wished to inherit almost the traditional skills of hiding, but also hoped that he could return to the intact Oriental cultural life space in the impetuous city.

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< p > Zhi mu < /p >.

Shops of cheongsam and Liriodendron are also sold in shops of < p > Song Dynasty.

Whether it is printed on the white bottom T-shirt, or the upper collar and lock buttonhole of the shirt, each piece of a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > dress "/a" is cut, sewn, printed, dyed, carved, embroidered and painted almost entirely by the old song dynasty.

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< p > he is learning a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > textile < /a > Engineering, and has a special liking for wood carving. He has long envisaged the wood carving as the seal, and printed the pigment on clothing or a target= "_blank" href= "_blank" > dress >

To this end, he carved a lot of wood prints, with customer preferences, printed on clothing.

A woman made a linen jacket and wanted to add some lingering charm when she took the clothes. The idea was put forward. The old song immediately sat down, adjusting the paint, dipping the brush back and forth on the bamboo leaf print, and gently pressing it.

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< p > "I carved bamboo leaves and carp from Li Yu's" Mustard garden painting ".

The bamboo spectrum teaches you how to describe bamboo, one is called "a cross boat", and the two is called "two swallows tail", which is born with interest.

He ordered it.

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< p > bamboo leaves and wood seals are small and delicate. The real treasure of the town store is vale board.

"Vale" in ancient Chinese refers to printing patterns on silk fabrics.

Engraving the same pattern with two pieces of wood, folding the silk cloth into the two edition, and then dyeing it in the carving space to become a symmetrical pattern. The printed silk and silk fabrics are called clip vales.

Its history can be traced back to the Qin and Han Dynasties. The Tang Dynasty reached its peak. There were historical data showing that the military uniform of the officers and soldiers, the skirts of the concubines and even the Bodhisattva of the Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang were all clipped.

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< p > however, from the Song Dynasty, Jia vale gradually declined in the folk. After Yuan Ming Dynasty, one of the oldest printing techniques in China was replaced by simple oil paper printing and printing, and eventually disappeared in classics.

In 1988, Xue Xunlang, Chen Kangsuan and others tried to revive the piecemeal preservation of Zhejiang's rural valiant workshop, but finally stopped production because of Limited sales.

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In the past few years, Lao song has been trying to restore and improve this long lost P.

In an accident in 2008, he found Zhang Qin's "Kunqu Opera on the blue cloth" on the Internet. He knew that he was not able to accept it, but he found all the books on the market. He began to study the patterns and crafts, and began to make engraving. It only took three months to make sure that the flower prints of the Western chamber.

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< p > Lao song introduced that the Western chamber is one of the commonly used patterns of clipping, but after several generations of inheritance, there are many erroneous points in the details of the patterns, which have already lost their original style.

He used computer graphics software to adjust the original picture and repaint it.

For example, the original picture is the background of square tiles, and the back of the tortoiseshell is filled with pictures. The version of the old song is only kept in the background of the second half, and the upper half is blank. With the flower pattern, the effect of the characters standing on the courtyard floor is created. The patterns are no longer paved with pictures, and there is breathable space, which makes the figures clear and clear.

In addition, the proportion of palindrome was adjusted, plus four supplementary patterns "baby pictures" - divided into bottle boy, saddle boy, halberd boy and knock out boy, that is, "peaceful celebrating", after modifying the six or seven draft, the pattern was finally determined.

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< p > what kind of plank should be chosen for the carving of the vale? No book can talk about it. It can only be explored by itself.

After the pattern was confirmed, Lao song first bought forty elm trees in a woodworking workshop. After the trial, it was found that after the water was soaked in the water, all parts of the elm were shrunk or rose, and the surface was uneven, which could not be used for printing and dyeing, and could only be abandoned.

Replacing other wood tests, the pear tree was finally selected, and the first two pieces of flower version, "Bai Ma Jie Wei", were carved. They were dyed again and again with these two plates, and the fourteenth pieces were < a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > cloth > /a > printing and dyeing was successful. The knife was cut and cut, first hand finely carved, and then sandpaper with 500 and 1000.

Sawdust flying and dust permeated, and in one year and two months, the complete set of "West Chamber" was carved into 17 pieces of wood, 15 of which were carved out of 32 pieces.

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"P" not long ago participated in the exhibition of the Shanghai international fashion center "local independent a target=" _blank "href=" http://www.91se91.com/ "designer /a exhibition platform".

"Pure nature, good intentions, this is the best blessing for newly married people", he is not complacent.

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< p > chat with Lao song, he never conceal "ambition", that is, engraved several pieces of wood to print silk scarves, and compete with Chinese traditional dyed grass, dyed vale, India vale, manual cloud dyeing and Hermes printing guide.

Last year, Hermes held a tour ceremony in China. Lao song also went on to explore a completely different philosophy of eastern and Western handicrafts.

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< p > positioning is a necessary condition for color printing. In his view, the western set of technology is the most accurate mechanical positioning; while Chinese tradition is entirely based on hand feeling and its record is vague, even the "Tiangong Kai Ye", known as "Encyclopedia of ancient Chinese technology", is also simple and practical.

In the early days of pformation, the old song dynasty was completely step-by-step to the craft books, and the clothes were not connected. Just like wood selection, there was always a lack of "tricks".

Later on, the Chinese craftsmen often used to "keep their hands" instead of conveying their essence to people at random. That is, the one or two sentence points, which must be thought back and forth in practice.

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"P >" should be like the old foreigner's manual, all the parameters are given to you.

For example, how to sharpen a knife, how to make the shape of the knife, what material to choose, and what kind of grindstone to choose when grinding, is it Shimizu Ma or salt water mill?

None of these things can be said, so that traditional folk craft can not be passed down in an orderly and valuable way.

He suddenly appears.

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< p > when it comes to doing so, all the works and production processes of the old song dynasty are photo recordings. Each a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > clothes /a > cuff flowers and hollowed patterns will feature close-up, hoping to record and collate the technological process in real words and images.

He said that such a record is most likely to become a "quick start".

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< p > Technical propagandist < /p >.

< p > the design of the old song dynasty mostly adheres to the traditional symmetrical plane cutting of the Chinese traditional dress. The clothes on the top of the collar hang on the Longmen coat hanger of the homemade red cloud pattern, and the two sleeves are lined up in a horizontal line, and the middle is straight down.

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< p > "compared with Western stereotactic cutting, this way of cutting is convenient for people wearing clothes to lift their arms and do whatever they want," he said of tailoring from the clothes rack.

"Foreigners wear tea to wear dresses, sports wear sportswear, and clothes decide the class of people.

And the same long gown, take the fan is a scholar, fan shaking, heel, a pull, open posture, is Huang Feihong.

It is the function of clothing that is determined by the temperament of man, which is the most obvious difference between the East and the West.

He explained it as he painted.

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< p > from the young age, Lao song loved the Chinese dress, but could not see the clothes sold on the market.

"Since they are not smart, simply do it yourself."

He said, this is like an old diner who can't find a satisfactory restaurant, so he has to open a restaurant in person.

Not only did he want to make his own shirt, but he also played the banner of "making the most of the Oriental mind".

He defined his target customer group as "economist" who used to learn from the world and learn from the family.

In the old song dynasty, clothes represent the taste and taste of a person. It has nothing to do with the so-called brand culture and the so-called luxury value.

"I don't want to wear a dress that reflects the culture of a brand.

This dress should reflect the taste of this person and see the beauty of this person. "

He said, this is his goal of making clothes.

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Less than P, the most prominent thing is that his clothes rarely use the finished product buttons, basically the self-made buttons.

For example, the porcelain bowl of Jingdezhen is cut and polished into a circle of 5 jiao coins. The bright white porcelain produces several bamboo leaves or peach blossoms with pastel flowers, which are embellished in dark blue or ivory white coat.

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< p > not only old porcelain, Shoushan Hibiscus stone, purple jade belt stone, longan Bodhi, sandalwood and even lotus heart can be made button material.

Some guests buy six or seven costumes at a time, specifically asking for buttons on each item.

"The beauty of the Chinese is implicit. The Chinese character is gentle. The Chinese demand for color is gentle, not the general cloth buttons."

In the eyes of Lao song, buttons like this small object can best contain the traditional Chinese aesthetic spirit. It is the label of aesthetics, not the label of wealth. It is very different from the buttons of Hermes and the brooches of Cartire.

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< p > he pays more attention to the choice of printing and dyeing content, and never makes such a creative idea which is full of wild things and has no roots.

"Good things, after hundreds of years of collective aesthetic examination, are used."

He is very confident in tradition.

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< p > this summer, the old song dynasty engraved a block of woodwork, trying to print Qin Qiong and Wei Chi Gong's three whipping for two mace on the T-shirt.

"I have been thinking about how to express the hero's dream in fashion in today's society."

He explained.

The result is unexpected. Some people say that it is Guan Gong's head. Some people say it is Liu Bei. Very few people recognize Qin Qiong.

"When I gave my T-shirt to my father, he immediately identified" this is uncle Bao and Jingde ", my father is a farmer, this has nothing to do with knowledge." old song is puzzled. "Do the young people not listen to the story of Yue Fei and the village of wat?" /p.

< p > earlier, Lao song wrote a couplet.

The couplet is: printing and dyeing tailors, practicing faithfully for a long time; the inferior couplet is: needle cutting thread ruler, diligently reading poetry books and following the world long.

"Don't talk to children about all those big principles all day, prenatal education and early education."

Lao song believes that the inheritance of handicraft contains the way of education everywhere.

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< p > home is equipped with a set of Chinese style clothes, putting two objects with traditional Chinese elements, "holding the printed blankets and pillows at home, telling him that this is the three meaning of" Taoyuan ", which is the" white horse escape "and" shotgun marriage "in the west chamber.

There is literature inside, there is aesthetics, there are also some traditional survival skills and the master family's poetry and Book spread to the world. In this way, a little bit of children can pass it down, and he will benefit from life. "

He said that this is the eastern way of life that he most wants to bring to others from "Confucius" less than 20 square meters of space.

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