Rethinking Of Fashion Week's "Identity Crisis"

1941, International Women clothing The International Ladies' Garment Workers Union first invited 30 journalists to New York. Designer Our sample room. In 1943, the Eleanor Lambert, the biggest cheerleader of the American fashion industry, took over the fashion week in New York and opened a media week in the Waldorf Hotel, where the media practitioners who came to report the fashion week were specially received. Eleanor Lambert,

Since then, the number of media people has been rising. "My face looks like the basic style that has appeared every quarter in the past 15 years," a media worker said in the New York Times. It was in 1958, when the number of media involved in fashion week was 200.

For outsiders, fashion week It's like the biggest party on the planet, but it brings a lot of trouble to the industry, which makes them tired. In the form of display, rather than fashion week, the fashion month starts from New York and ends in Paris. During this month, thousands of contributors, retailers, photographers, bloggers and celebrities who had no idea why they came to the city had no time to rectify.

Designers are also like dried fruits during the fashion week. "It's really hopeless," said Joseph Altuzarra, who has been rushing through the summer. "Of course, the sense of desperation is not so strong when the sense of panic is not finished," Joseph Altuzarra said. In the past 10 years, people are complaining that there are too many shows. 12 years ago, fashion shows were important enough to get on the front page of the news daily, but now they are two times as big as they used to be, and their influence is shrinking.

The purpose of the fashion week is to arrive at the shop and sell it to the public for a few months. Designer To introduce fashion designers and retailers to the design of this season. But now it is lost in the digital age. Besides the white tent in New York fashion week, fashion shows are also being held between the photographers and photographers in the street. Suzy Menkes, a fashion critic, wrote in the column of T, "who is still yearning for real fashion? Who can stop everything outside the tent?" (Such Macs)

"Fashion week needs to be rethought," Finn Maris (Fern Mallis) said. In 1993, she served as the executive director of CFDA, and placed the white tent show in Bryant park. In 2010, New York fashion week moved to Lincoln Center. Some people think that the move is a big failure. The fashion show organizers and park managers are filthy. Three months ago, a petition was sent to the New York municipal government and the Lincoln center administrator to prosecute the "Lincoln Center for public use of parks and other public spaces". Even the chairman of CFDA Diane (Diane von Furstenberg) is not sure that fashion week will continue in Lincoln Center. The trial result of this lawsuit may become the "decisive battle" of the fate of New York fashion week. Nowadays, many designers who are holding fashion shows at Lincoln Center are complaining that the environment has become a bit like the airport terminal or exhibition. Some brands including Anna Sui are seriously considering moving to other places. "Every season I want to move, but the tent is reasonable in terms of the economic budget." Anna Su said that the biggest advantage of Lincoln Park is cheaper than holding a fashion show independently. The biggest disadvantage is that it is like a fashion factory.

For now, New York fashion show It will continue in Lincoln park until 2015, but at the same time, the sponsor IMG is looking for a new address. The Hudson cultural preservation Park, which is expected to be completed in 2017, is a potential venue for New York fashion week. It is located at the 57 Wharf on the west side of the 15 street and is invested by CFDA. Ms. von freddin is a member of the board. During the transition period, it will be possible to locate SuperPier in the retail comprehensive block. In this season, the Opening Ceremony and Marc by Marc Jacobs show will be held here.

But a new home will not solve all the problems of New York fashion week.

This season, many designers represented by Altuazrra and Reed Krakoff chose private show to resist noisy public opinion environment. Oscar de la Renta reduced the number of entries to 350, and the designer told the women's Wear Daily: "thirty thousand people come to see the show, which is an irony in itself. Ten thousand of them were photographing ten thousand other people who had nothing to do with fashion. "

Von fentin also announced with some indignation: some designers will choose the way of network display in the future. "The situation has changed so much that no one knows where we will go next," she said.

The more intense argument comes from Tamara Mellon, the former director of Jimmy Choo. Tamara Mehlen. After being dismissed from her own brand, fashion week also shut her out. This season, she started off with a personal gesture, launched a small series and received a lot of attention. Vogue made a special topic for her. "I hate those overcoats that can only last five or six months," Tamara said. "My customers don't care. fashion week "