Discussion On The Old And New Standards Of "Single And Clip Garments"

< p > with the development of internationalization and the development of market economy, our investment in < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_c.asp > > textile > /a" has been increasing. As a bright spot in the field of dress, clothing has attracted more and more attention. In December 28, 2012, China released FZ/T81007 - 2012 "single and clipped garment" [1] (hereinafter referred to as the new standard), instead of FZ/T81007 - 2003 "single and clipped garments" [2] (hereinafter referred to as the old standard), and was formally implemented in June 1, 2013.

The new standard is modified and perfected on the basis of old standards, and has increased the evaluation index of many projects.

In order to better understand the implementation of this standard, this paper compares and analyzes the contents of new and old standards for discussion.

< /p >

< p > < strong > 1 the scope of application has been amended < /strong > < /p >

< p > the new standard has revised the scope of application of the standard. It has been modified from cotton, linen, silk, chemical fibre and its blended fabric as the main fabric of textile woven fabric, and "batch production" has been deleted.

At the same time, the provisions of infant clothing which are not suitable for children aged 36 months or less are added. This modification makes the application scope more clear, so as to avoid the situation of standard misuse.

< /p >

< p > < strong > 2 normative reference documents < < /strong > < /p >

< p > first, the standards in the new standard are basically quotes without the age, that is, the latest standards are quoted.

Secondly, the new standard added the citation standard of new projects, and perfected normative citation files.

At the same time, some of the reference standards were deleted in the new standard.

< /p >

< p > < strong > 3 increased and revised the < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_c.asp > > technical requirement < /a > /strong > /p >

< p > 3.1 use instruction < /p >

< p > the requirement of GB18401 is added to the instructions for the use of finished products, that is, the safety technology category of clothing is marked.

< /p >

< p > 3.2 type specification < /p >.

The requirement of GB/T1335.3 has been increased in the < p > pattern setting, and the specification of the main parts of the product has increased the requirements of GB/T1335.3 and GB/T2668.

< /p >

< p > 3.3 appearance quality < /p >

< p > 3.3.1 buttons, zippers and accessories < /p >

< p > the requirements for buttons, zippers and accessories are stricter in the new standard.

In addition to the old standards, the buttons in the new standard are smooth and without defects. The accessories should have no sharp edges and sharp edges. The zippers are good, smooth and smooth.

< /p >

< p > 3.3.2 warp weft yarn > /p >

In the < p > new standard, the allowable deviation degree of trousers is changed from "less than 1.5%" to "less than 3%", and the technical requirement of the weft yarn weft deviation of the old standard is not more than 3%.

< /p >

< p > 3.3.3 for strip pair /p <.

< p > the new standard is more stringent than the old standard. The front middle line of the trousers is changed from "inclined to less than 1.0cm" to "less than 0.8cm", and the increase of the allowance is not greater than 3%.

< /p >

< p > 3.3.4 color difference < /p >

The color difference caused by overlay adhesive lining is not evaluated in < p > new standard.

< /p >

< p > 3.3.5 modified the new standard for appearance defect assessment < /p >

< p > summarizes the assessment indexes of different defects in position 1, No. 2 and No. 3, and increases the assessment indexes of double warp, color and loose neps, coarse grain, coarse joint and slub.

< /p >

< p > 3.3.6 complements the requirements of sewing examination < /p >

< p > in the old standard, the needle spacing density of the dark line is generally defined as 3cm not less than 12 needles. In the new standard, the dark lines are divided into fine lines and thick lines, and the needle spacing density is also different. The fine line requirements are not less than 12 needles /3cm, and the thickness requirement is not less than 9 needles /3cm.

At the same time, in addition to meeting the requirements of the old standard, the new standard also added cuff sleeves and uniform before and after. The bags and bags were square and round; the ends of the bags should be tied; the rolling bars and layering should be uniform and wide; the decoration (embroidery, mosaic, etc.) were firm and uniform; the side seam of the trousers was straight, and the distortion rate was not greater than 2%.

< /p >

< p > 3.3.7 modified the allowable deviation of the main parts of the finished product in the new standard. The allowable deviation of the waistline is changed from "+ 1.0cm" to "+ 1.5cm".

< /p >

< p class= "p15" style= "margin-top: 0pt; margin-bottom: 0pt" > span style= "font-family:" Song body ";" font-size: ";" "" "" > "< < >", "song";

< p > < --EndFragment-- > strong > 4 physical and chemical properties < /strong > /p >

< p > 4.1 safety performance index < /p >

< p > with the improvement of the living standard of modern society and the enhancement of product quality consciousness, people are paying more attention to the safety of products while demanding the quality of products. Therefore, in addition to the old standards, such as formaldehyde content, pH value, dry (wet) rubbing color fastness and sweat fastness index of GB18401, the basic safety technical specification for national textile products, the new standard also added the assessment of basic safety technology items such as water fastness, decomposable aromatic amine dyes and odor, and stipulated that the specific values of formaldehyde, pH value and decomposable aromatic amine dyes should not be specified, all in accordance with the relevant provisions of GB18401.

< /p >

< p > 4.2 color fastness < /p >

< p > the evaluation index of the color fastness of fabrics and linings (see Table 2).

< /p >

In the < p > new standard, there are slight adjustments in the evaluation index of wet rubbing fastness and light fastness (see Table 3), and the new standard has a clearer stipulation for dark and light colors.

< /p >

< p > 4.3, the main parts of the finished product were modified, and the assessment index was < /p >.

< p > in the old standard, the crack degree of the silk products and the products whose quality is below 50g under the square meter is carried out according to the regulations of GB/T18132. The new standard stipulates that the slippage index of the quality of the fabric is below 52g and GB/T18132 according to the new standard, and the new standard has slightly lowered the standard requirements for sewing defects (see Table 4).

< /p >

< p > 4.4 the new standard has added the requirements of appearance quality after washing and drying. The requirements for appearance quality after washing and drying are shown in Table 5.

< /p >

< p > < strong > 5 modification of detection method < /strong > < /p >

< p > 5.1 modification of test tool < /p >

< p > first, the new standard has a clear stipulation for the accuracy of steel tape, and the requirement is 1mm, while the old standard is only steel tape.

Secondly, in the new standard, the appearance of smoothness and the appearance of smoothness of the joints were measured after washing. The standard depth color card (GB/T4841.3) of 1/12 dye dyeing was specified, and the pilling samples of combed woolen fabrics and the pilling samples of coarse wool were deleted.

Finally, the new standard increased the chest rack.

< /p >

< p > 5.2 modification of appearance measurement < /p >

< p > the new standard has increased the method of measuring the distortion rate, and at the same time, it has more stringent requirements for the objective environmental conditions in the detection process and the inspectors.

< /p >

< p > 5.3 the revision of the new physical and chemical properties testing standard requires that the size change rate of water washing should be measured according to GB/T8630 regulations, and 5A (fabric with wool or silk yarn equal to or equal to 50% of the finished product is /p >

The method of drying is used to hang dry air and randomly draw 3 samples, and the average value is obtained. In the test of color fastness to soaping, the new standard specifies the color fastness to soaping. According to the GB/T3921 - 2008 method, C (3) [silk, regenerated cellulose fiber, hemp, nylon, wool and blended fabric are tested according to the method of A 2008 (1)]. In pilling test method, the new standard has more detailed regulations than the old standard general detection method. The new standard requires that wool, combed woollen knitted fabric according to method E, loose structure combed woolen fabric, carded knitted fabric according to method F, and the rest is carried out according to the method D. < p > 7A)

< /p >

< p > < strong > 6 test < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_c.asp" > classification rule < /a > /strong > /p >

In the < p > old standard, the finished product inspection is divided into factory inspection, general pattern inspection and type inspection. The new standard removes the general type inspection in the finished product inspection classification.

Substantiated and improved the basis for judging the quality defects of finished products, and the division of serious defects, heavy defects and light defects is more detailed and clear, which is conducive to the identification of defects by the tester.

The requirements for judging the appearance of single parts were modified.

For the qualified products, the "number of serious defects =0, the number of defects is less than 2, and the number of light defects is less than 2" is deleted.

< /p >

< p > < strong > 7 appendix < /strong > < /p >

< p > appendix is divided into appendix A and appendix B.

The appendix A in the old standard is the test method for the degree of seam opening. Reference is made to the FZ/T20019 - 1999 test method for the seam opening degree of woollen fabrics.

Appendix A in the new standard is joint performance test method.

Slippage is the effect of tensile force on the clothing during the wearing process. The fabric yarn at the joint produces slipping in the direction or zonal direction, resulting in the sealing off.

It is easy to see from the comparison between the old and new standard appendix A that the new standard is more specific and practical in terms of principle, test environment, sample requirements, preparation and test procedures.

< /p >

< p > < strong > 8 concluding remarks < /strong > < /p >

< p > FZ/T81007 - 2012 "single and clipped garments" has increased product safety technology, and has been updated and adjusted in terms of scope of application, instructions, physical and chemical properties and appearance inspection.

The formulation of the new standard accords with the development of the international market, with a certain foresight. It embodies the principle of "advanced technology, economic rationality, safety and reliability, coordination and matching". The standards are more perfect and reasonable, more in line with the trend of product development, improving the quality of products, and facilitating the standardized operation of testing institutions. At the same time, it also reflects the pformation of standards from production guidance to consumption guidance, but some details still need to be improved and perfected.

The new standard does not set a clear requirement for the color fastness to light and sweat, and the assessment requirements for relaxation are relaxed. This puts forward stricter requirements for the internal control of enterprises, and enterprises should set reasonable internal control targets according to their brand positioning.

< /p >