Luella Bartley Queen Of Home

The work of British designer Lula Bartlett (Luella Bartley) represents a typical British oddball style.

On the eve of her 2008 autumn and winter series, the guardian's fashion editor Hadley Freeman gave an exclusive interview to lvla.

During the interview, Lula talked about the opportunity of his costume design and the reason why he finally decided to leave the United States and return to his hometown.

The best idea of returning to hometown is often unexpected.

"I drank some wine with my friend that evening, and they said," do it and make your own brand. "

I listened very much and replied, "OK, that's all."

Lula Bartleben, the fashion designer, smiled and recalled the scene 10 years ago. It was such a sudden decision that she began her career in fashion design.

When she met Bartley, she was sitting in the basement of the LV La Mayfair store on Brook street in London.

This brand store has bright colors and unique design. It looks very petite beside the Hotel Le Claridge, but it does not lose its pride.

Bartley, 34, is tall and strong. She looks similar to actress Sisi Spacek.

But she sometimes reveals the lovely aspect of childlike innocence, which is more energetic than the young idol Carrie.

Bartley's brand "lvla" has an exaggerated British style and has become one of the most popular fashion clothes in Britain.

Rebel stars Lily Alan and Kelly Osborne are their loyal fans.

Bartley is often referred to as the founder of contemporary Bobbi and Mary Quant (Mary Quant) because of the brand younger design, the British grotesque and the relatively reasonable price.

The brand is also praised by Americans. Bartley has held 6 releases in the US.

In 2007, before Bartley returned to Britain, the American version of fashion magazine, which was always high above, exaggerated her description as "London's cool stars, posters, and the darling of the masses".

"In fact, Americans appreciate the British style. The British style is quite different from their style. The typical British hair style and the biting fingernails are very brave in their expression."

Bartley smiled and said that she had properly described these British characteristics into her own brand.

Bartley returned to London Fashion Week in September last year.

Bartley said that part of the reason was that it was too difficult to work in both places, especially when he had 3 children under 5 years old.

"Oh, my God, will I lose all my commercial interests when I return to London?"

Bartley had similar worries.

She admits that the difficulty of publishing in London Fashion Week is hard to attract more attention and coverage from international fashion media.

"But I have had the experience of going abroad to publish and prove myself.

Now I want to go back to my hometown.

She said.

Bartley, another store opened last autumn, is located outside Hongkong, England. The interior decoration is very special.

There are paintings of horses and war medals in the shop. They are all attached to the lvla logo and embroidered cushion with the head of the Beatles.

This is the perfect interpretation of Lu La brand English style, blending the knight class details and punk spirit.

Lira brand clothing looks like a luxurious dress worn by a noble and cool teenager. Its structure is innovative and its style is novel. It gives people a feeling of mixing neon dance skirts and hunting jackets.

"I am very addicted to British style."

Bartley laughed.

At that time, we were sitting in the shop she called "her nest". The retro portrait on the wall looked very strange and lovely.

"I love all traditions and retro stuff.

I also like the feeling of unruly rock.

My brand image is between the two. I like to integrate the two styles. This is a romantic idea.

She said.

To be a realistic designer, Bartley's parents divorced when she was very young.

Bartley was raised by his mother and grew up in Stratford on the Evan river.

Her mother is a secretary. In Bartley's words, she is a person who can rely on and has real professional ethics.

On the contrary, Bartley's father was very rebellious.

"He's a businessman. He often does absurd things.

He ran the stable, but he and his horse had nothing to do with me. "

Bartley once said so.

Her first clothing series was launched in 1998 and was named "Daddy I want a pony".

"It's not like that," she bowed her head and smiled bitterly. "Maybe I want to use it to describe something."

The warmth of her relationship with her father began after Bartley moved to London to learn design.

Bartley said, "he must think that I am much better communicable after adulthood."

If Bartley's design inspiration comes from her childhood fantasies about her father, it's her mother who decides to enter the field of design.

Bartley was the only child of her mother. When she was 20 years old, her mother gave birth to Bartley, forcing her to give up her studies at University of the Arts.

"At that time, she gave up her studies and chose another way of life.

Now that I have children, I know that mothers do not regret their giving up their careers for their children.

And when I entered Saint Martin's design school and had a life she did not have, she felt very pleased and proud.

However, Bartley's illusions about university life soon collapsed.

"Those people are monsters. It seems to be inappropriate to say so," she quickly corrected her statement, trying to suppress her 18 years of age, and replaced it with a more mature expression. "Competition is fierce and cruel, and everything can not be exactly what you want.

But the students at that time were bragging about how incomparable they are everyday.

"Of course," she interrupted again, and added, "I do appreciate something great, but I can't do it."

It's hard to think of who's designed to dress like the LV branded clothing.

Bartley's design is cheerful, sweet, interesting and commercialized.

This is inconsistent with people's impression of Saint Martin graduates. Most people think that Saint Martin's design course emphasizes artistic style and wearability, advocating the same old fashion as a sportswear.

After two years of study, Bartley left Saint Martin and became a fashion commentator in the London Evening flag, then came to work in fashion magazine.

After having lost her illusions about office life, she drank with her friends and decided to pick up fashion design as a real fashion designer.

Bartley, the leader of a unique team, spent some time preparing and considering before he really became a fashion designer.

Fashion design is not a problem. She can display her unique aesthetics with assurance.

The main reason is Bartley's own image building problem and the people and things around her.

Harpers market magazine called her "the leader of the London youth fashion organization". This evaluation is like flattery, but it makes her and her friends sound like a group of impetuous people.

The British team includes fashion editor Katie Grande and designer Giles Deacon, Stuart Wells and Katie Hillier, and Kate Moss sometimes joins them.

They often attend the big parties together, and the photos together tell people that they are a group.

Bartley said, "I am loyal to the cool things, this is a kind of self expression.

But now I realize that those are not the things that make me really happy.

What makes me feel happy is to design and take care of my children. "

In fact, the team has proved its strength.

They are a unique group in the fashion world: deacon has become the charming spot of the London Fashion week because of the new release of Giles brand. Before last year, Wells was the creative director of the brand, and now is the Spanish luxury brand Roy Wei; Hillier is the accessory designer of Mark Jacobs brand; and Grande is one of the famous fashion leaders in the UK, who has been designed for the Prada brand, and is now an editor in the famous pop magazine.

In 2002, Bartley became popular as Giselle bag and became one of the design ancestors of "It bag".

Brand sales have increased at a time, but the company has not yet established a production line that can meet customers' needs.

Nonetheless, such a tiny, essentially simple bag has set off a "It bag" buying trend, just as people used to crave guzis and St. Laurent bags before, which made Bartley somewhat embarrassed.

"Obviously, that package has brought us a lot of profit, but I find the whole brand positioning is not clear enough."

There is also a threshold that all designers have to cross: try to get the support of celebrities.

Bartley's show in New York attracted the 20 year old American stars with white skin and blond hair. They confidently sat in the first row of the show, holding the bag of Lila faithfully.

"This way helps brand sales, but to tell the truth, I don't like that."

Bartley said, "this is also one of the reasons why I went back to London."

18 months ago, Bartley, the representative of the cool girl, moved to Cornwall to live with her lover, fashion photographer David Sims and 3 children.

She said moving away from London was a sad thing. At the very beginning, she had to count the days before she could return to the capital.

Because only in London can she wear "except the long tube boots".

Bartley has gradually become a mature and intelligent designer.

She said her maturity was entrusted by her mother's identity.

"Yes, when a mother can change your mind and look at things."

She said seriously.

Lula Bartlett has the perfect life that everyone admires.

There are three children who live in a peaceful and pastoral family life in Cornwall. Their lover is fashion photographer David Simms.

Of course, she also runs a very successful personal brand.

Her life is always full of surprises: after graduation, she was lucky to be editor of London Evening flag and fashion magazine.

These experiences eventually led her to return to the design profession she chose to study at college.

In 2000, with her friends' support, she launched her own personal series.

Bartley grew up in Stratford, on the Evan river. She once said that she did not grow in London, but helped her succeed in her career.

Her clothes show was named after these themes: "Daddy, I want a pony", "cowboys and Indians at Rock Festival".

After becoming famous, Bartley said in an interview that she wanted to make clothes that could be drunk or fell down.

Lula 2002 spring and summer series is the first commercial Street store New Look series she launched.

She and Mulberry (Mulberry) brand launched jointly by Giselle (Gisele) package to help Mulberry brand revival.

Lula Bartlett's success in London helped her enter New York fashion week.

But in 2007, she returned to London and opened the first flagship store on Brook street.

Her designs have become the British "rebellious" young female singers.

Yang Jing: editor in charge