Methods Of Appreciating And Collecting Chinese Court Costumes

< p > World < a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > dress < /a > a target= "_blank" href= "_blank".

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< p > < strong > what is Dragon Robe? Not all the five claws are called Dragon < /strong > < /p >.

< p > Royal costumes, once the ancient emperors' best costume, flickering in history. Through this day, this special cultural carrier still shines with charming light and becomes the focus of cultural research and art collection.

There is no doubt that, as an imperial antiquity in ancient China, it was not only a symbol of the royal status and status at that time, but also an important part of ancient ritual music culture.

Zong Fengying first gave a brief account of the concept of dragon robes and how to distinguish between dragons and bold patterns: "as the name implies, embroidering or weaving dragon patterns on the surface of < a target=" _blank "href=" http://www.91se91.com/ "> clothing < /a >.

There are only four kinds of people in the Dragon Robe: the emperor, the empress dowager, the empress, and the imperial imperial concubine.

The real dragon robe is made of bright yellow.

However, we can also see the image of the dragon's image as identical as that of the dragon.

Why is it called "mang" rather than "dragon"? Because of its different identity, it calls for different ways.

Only the clothes worn by emperors, empress dowager, empress, and imperial imperial concubine are called Dragon robes. Others can not be called Dragon robes.

Although the clothes are embroidered and embroidered into five claw dragons, they are commonly referred to as python.

Nowadays, many people are wrong to see the five claws as dragons.

The five claw Python costume is usually worn by princes and royalty, and four claw Mang, compared with the five claws, it means that the identity is reduced, and the officers and men are basically wearing four claw Python clothes, and their colors are usually more blue and blue.

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< p > the emperor's clothes are called Dragon robes. The clothes of the officials are called robe gowns.

Therefore, even if the patterns are uniform, there is a distinction between "dragon" and "Python".

For the emperor, it can be called a Dragon Robe, but for ordinary officials, it can only be called a robe.

In color, only royalty can be bright yellow, golden yellow and apricot yellow.

Ordinary people are usually blue and stone green.

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< p > < strong > Dragon and twelve chapter - the unique pattern of the emperor < /strong > /p >

< p > Dragon Robe is a dress worn by ancient emperors during celebrations.

Although the patterns of dragon patterns on Dragon robes have changed over the years, the number of dragons is generally 9: 3 in front and back, 1 in the left and right shoulders, and 1 in the front, so they are displaying 5 points, which coincide with the throne.

The clothes of emperors of the Qing Dynasty were basically divided into three categories, namely, formal dress, gowns and casual clothes.

The dresses include dresses, dresses, dresses, dresses, gowns, and gowns. The gowns include the imperial gown, the Dragon Robe, the Dragon gown, and the casual wear is the usual clothing other than the regulations.

The Dragon Robe is a uniform robe, which is a little lower than the dress. It is a common dress worn by the emperor at a general auspicious banquet and when he sees his ministers. It is also the imperial clothing that we often see.

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< p > Why did all emperors of the past dynasties adorn the dragon pattern on their costumes? What kind of animal is the dragon? According to records, the dragon has three stops of nine.

Surrender to your shoulder, waist to waist, waist to tail.

The angle is like a deer, a head like a camel, an eye like a rabbit, a snake, a belly like a mirage, a scale like a fish, a claw like an eagle, a palm like a tiger, an ear like a cow ". It is said that it can be changed without a change, its change has no pattern, it can become an ant when it is small, and can be huge when it is big.

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< p > in fact, in ancient China, there were many images of Rui animals, such as dragons, unicorns, Phoenix, and so on. Most of these animals had the meaning of peace, good health and auspicious auspicious. But why did the patterns on the clothes on the emperor choose the dragon pattern? Zong Fengying said: "the emperor wears the dragon pattern because the emperors and emperors are all representatives of heaven, and people will have no reason to overthrow him with the will of God.

Embroider the dragon's ornamentation on the top of the garment, and use such a creature as a symbol of his rule. "

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Besides the dragon, there are twelve chapters in the Dragon Robe. This is the unique pattern on the Dragon Robe. The so-called twelve chapter refers to the twelve designs representing the emperor's P.

Zong Fengying elaborated on the twelve chapters: "day, month, star, morning, mountain, Chinese worm, dragon,", "Yi", "Yi", "water grass", "fire" and "powder rice".

其中日月星辰代表光明;山是云的地方，有山就有云彩;龍——取其“身為天子、智慧無限、隨機應變”之意; 華蟲，也就是一種雉鳥，表示“文采華麗、君子風范、如鳳來儀”之意;宗彝，即一種祭祀禮器，是“忠孝平安”之意;藻，亦即水草，為取其“冷靜思考、純正潔凈”之意;火，象征“斗志昂揚、朝氣蓬勃、無限光明”;粉米，取其“感恩滋養、民以食為天”之意;黼，象征皇帝做事果斷，考慮問題非常果斷，有砍的意思; 黻，常作亞形，或兩獸相背形，意為陰陽“辯證思維、清楚明辨”。

The supremacy of imperial power can no longer be surpassed.

Only the emperor's Dragon robes will have a complete twelve chapter pattern. The number of the Dragon robes granted by the emperor will be reduced accordingly, such as the nine chapter, the seven chapter and so on, but it must be singular.

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< p > < strong > palace costumes -- how to appreciate < /strong > /p >

< p > Zong Fengying thinks that palace embroidery is a cold war. So far only her teacher and herself have studied and published books, and have talked about the research results.

Far from being like ceramics, calligraphy and painting, bronze, so many experts have studied thoroughly and published many books.

It seems to her that the cultural content and richness of weaving and embroidering costumes can be compared with those of others.

Like wood is naturally grown, you can cut it down and make it into shape. If you study it, you will study wood and modeling. If you study it, you will study wood and modeling. If you study it, it will not be the same. First, we need to study its weaving. Why can silk and satin yarn come out of so many different kinds? Its weaving and technology are different. It involves mulberry and silkworm, and silkworms are also involved in the silkworms. After finishing the silk, we can weave beautiful clothes with shuttle and shuttle. The beautiful patterns are printed by strokes, and then woven with shuttle, shuttle, and shuttle. It is much more difficult than painting.

So it involves every aspect, and the content of culture and art is far beyond other categories.

She suggested that those who are interested in palace costumes should take a look at the Great Qing convention.

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< p > the Dragon robe worn by court costumes is the highest level of weaving in the society at that time.

Therefore, this noble and luxurious dress has been destined to its great value attributes from the very beginning, and what most people want to explore is its high technological value.

Its production and management is the responsibility of the house of affairs, the whole process of division of labor is meticulous, orderly management, large staff.

The craftsmen who are only responsible for < a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > textile > /a > have more than ten kinds of workmen including master, master, manager, pipe warp and weft, tube circle, tube flat gold, tube color pile, pipe number, tube flower, embroidery embroidery, gardener, gardener, Baker, dustman, painter and flower maker, and the three most skilled workmen in Jiangnan, who are responsible for the production of palace costumes.

The palace is very demanding on the quality and color of its products and often asks itself.

In the production, it does not cost anything. It is made of gold thread and silver thread and peacock hair. There are dozens of fabrics such as satin, silk, yarn, silk, and Zhang velvet.

It takes at least three or four years for a dragon robe to take one or two years. "

According to the archives records of the Qing Dynasty palace, "the house of the Fu" and the "Office of the house of the interior", the emperor's imperial edict demanded that the official bureau should weave "forging and weaving" with "uniform weft and longitude, long and long fitting, delicate patterns, bright colors" and unqualified quality.

Therefore, every Dragon Robe handed down is excellent, no matter from material, craft or production, there is no blemish.

Zong Fengying said that the cost of making a embroidered Dragon Robe is 1000 two silver.

According to the current price of silver 3.96 yuan / gram, 1000 two silver equivalent to 198 thousand yuan.

That is to say, the cost of making a Dragon Robe is equivalent to 198 thousand yuan today.

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< p > Christie's expert Dai Dai, from the nine auction pieces of Qing Dynasty palace costumes sold by Christie's in Hongkong this year, cited two examples: one is the robe of Guangxu Huang's twelve chapter, the "bright yellow represents a very high level"; the second is the Qian Longlan's Satin cloud dragon pattern, which is usually worn out on important occasions, and because it is divided into upper skirts and skirts, it is very easy to scatter and rarely form a set.

He said: "this auction can produce nine pieces of dragon robes at a time, their ages from Qianlong to Guangxu, and mainly in court, which was not in previous auctions."

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< p > < strong > the number of surviving is limited. The value of collection is large < /strong > < /p >.

< p > Dai Dai also thinks: "compared with other court art, the palace embroidered dress is neglected. For example, the jade seal most directly related to the emperor has tens of millions of dollars. But in the past, the meaning of Dragon Robe was greater than that of the jade seal. That is why the idiom of" Huang Pao "is the only reason for this, rather than the" jade seal ".

Because the first thing to do is to have a yellow army, so its political and cultural content is much larger than it used to be. "

Dai Dai reminds you that, in view of the extremely limited amount of the Dragon robes, "what you can see in the past is nothing more than the drama designed on the stage, but this time it shows the real palace dress, which is the ancient top silk, the best embroidery and the best palace design. This beautiful artistic flower is not easy to see, even it is not easy to see." he recalled that in the past auctions, because of the scarce quantity, the occasional collection of dragon robes was put into ordinary embroidery or miscellaneous items, and rarely appeared in series.

"In the past, everything from a Tibetan collector, such as clothing, from court costumes, casual clothes, civilian casual clothes, men's wear, women's wear, and even the purse carried with them, will be mixed together.

Although it looks very rich and complete, it is necessary to have a certain professional vision for everyone to find the best ones.

This time is different from the previous one, because the best court costumes in weaving embroidery are concentrated on display, and the quality and quality of the products are excellent. It is a rare opportunity for everyone to know the costumes of the court.

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< p > Zong Fengying also feels that the collection of palace silk is neglected. It is a market that has not been opened, and the price is far from being in place.

The main reasons are: first, traditional ideas regard it as clothing and do not regard it as a work of art.

Second, the researchers are relatively few; third, from the material point of view, it is not easy to preserve, so there is less survival, and there are very few silk fabrics in museums.

Like the Imperial Palace, there are about two hundred thousand very rare things. In her view, the Dragon robes are regarded as "a href=" http://www.91se91.com/news/index_f.asp "Art > /a" after the reform and opening up. "Before it was often used as an ordinary clothing for covering the body against cold, and it was not carefully preserved as a precious art, it led to such a very small number of things. Now it is not easy to get a very complete dress in the Qing Dynasty."

At the same time, she reminded that when choosing, it depends on the quantity of its existence and the integrity of its preservation. If it is well preserved and very complete, it is the most ideal.

The Dragon Robe is of course the first choice.

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< p > Dai Dai added three important points to illustrate the very important collections of palace embroidery: "the first is culture; the second is research; third is decorative."

First, in terms of weaving and embroidering clothing, in the past it belonged to the category stipulated in the system of rules and regulations.

On the other hand, the patterns on the top have various meanings, such as the meaning of the twelve chapter.

Each pattern has its meaning behind it, and it is also a history of inheritance.

Some patterns may be handed down from the Tang Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty, and the changes and circulation are worth studying and discussing.

When it comes to its research, it involves how it is made, including weaving, embroidery, dyeing, and the weaving of gold thread and silver thread. These are all technological; another is historical research. If a thorough study of a collection is thorough, it can be regarded as a collector. It does not mean that it can be bought and bought there. It can only be called a storekeeper.

As a collector, he has gained more knowledge from the cultural connotation and craft of weaving embroidery.

Finally, it is decorative. For example, when you go to the international hotel, you will see the Dragon Robe decorated at the gate of Jianguomen Seth and Tongrentang as a symbol of luxury and taste.

The decoration of this kind of things in life is also very large. As a symbol of Chinese culture, Chinese embroidery and embroidery often go overseas exhibitions. Some parties there, or some meaningful activities reflecting Chinese culture, will be dressed in Chinese costumes to show unique aesthetics and love for oriental culture.

Therefore, the decoration of weaving embroidery is everywhere.

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< p > > altogether, the palace embroidered embroidery, including < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_f.asp" > Dragon paw < /a >, is mostly concentrated in the the Imperial Palace Museum. There is little stock in the folk. The beauty of the Dragon Robe shows us the beauty of crossing, and produces countless topics. Compared with the auction price ratio of hundreds of millions of yuan for the palace porcelain, the market price of Chinese costumes should still be at a low level, which is also the joy of collecting dragon robes.

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