Many Brands In The Textile Industry Are Now Polluting The Big Supply Chain.
Wang Jingjing, deputy director of the public environment research center, told reporters that he hoped that famous brands at home and abroad could urge suppliers with irregular records to change the pollution of the environment and prevent the emergence of "poisonous apple" in the textile industry, < /p > p
< p > > a href= "http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_p.asp" > < /a >. The water pollution problem of textile industry has been widely concerned by the market. The Research Report of the relevant environmental protection organizations has also been taken seriously by the public.
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< p > reporter interviewed Han Zhongwei, the manager of the American Apparel. He appealed to the environmental protection organization for the pollution of the brand. He believed that the main business of the company was brand retailing, and there was no manufacturer, so there was no environmental pollution problem.
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< p > for such an answer, Li Yifang, director of the green peace pollution control project of another environmental protection organization, does not agree with her. She told reporters that "this gesture of American state dress is irresponsible."
She believes that branding providers have a great impact on suppliers. As brands, they should be fully aware of their social responsibilities for environmental pollution.
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< p > < strong > 32 brands did not respond to survey < /strong > < /p >
< p > The Research Report of "green choice textile brand supply chain pollution" completed by the 5 environmental protection organizations over the past 9 months has revealed that a large number of large textile brands and garment retailers have serious environmental violations in China's supply chain, which has a serious impact on China's water environment.
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< p > textile industry is one of the largest sources of water pollution in China.
Its wastewater discharge intensity is high, and the reuse water rate is very low.
China's textile and garment exports account for more than 30% of the global market, and the impact of the textile industry on the environment is enormous.
Dyeing and finishing wastewater accounts for about 80% of the textile industry wastewater, and about 12% of chemical fiber production wastewater. In addition, 8% is other textile wastewater.
The total amount of dyeing and finishing wastewater in 5 provinces of Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Shandong, Guangdong and Fujian accounts for 90% of the total amount of dyeing and finishing wastewater discharge in China.
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< p > < < a href= > http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_p.asp > > Research > < /a > found that at present, there are more than 6000 textile enterprises in China's pollution map database, some of which are punished or not dealt with within a time limit because of private pipelines, sewage straight rows, abnormal use of sewage treatment facilities, and excessive discharge of pollutants.
In these enterprises, there are many suppliers of large international and domestic brands.
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< p > according to Wang Jingjing, deputy director of the public environmental research center, we sent letters to 48 enterprises, but 32 enterprises did not respond.
It is understood that Brand Company did not respond to Marks&Spencer, Esprit, CalvinKlein, Armani, Carrefour and other international brands, including 360 degrees, Anta, YOUNGOR and other domestic well-known brands.
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< p > although Wang Jingjing regretted such a small response, some well-known Brand Company responded positively.
"Today, Lining, a well-known brand in the country, responded by telephone that we would investigate the supplier and rectify the defective suppliers."
Wang Jingjing told reporters more gratified.
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< p > according to Wang Jingjing, more than 30 enterprises have begun to compare the list of suppliers with the list of violations announced by environmental protection organizations after years of efforts.
This is a good start.
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< p > < strong > < a > href= > http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_p.asp > brand > /a > should be responsible for water pollution? < /strong > /p >
Ma Jun, director of the public environment research center, said publicly that some brands have shown great resistance to social supervision. < p >
"We saw some environmental problems in the suspected suppliers of Zara. After the letter was sent, we received a reply from Zara, but wrote," we regret that we can not answer the individual's response to our business model from schools, universities and professionals. "
Ma Jun said.
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From P's evasive reply to Zara, we can see that the company does not want to answer the company's responsibility for environmental pollution.
Regarding this, the director of green peace pollution prevention project Li Yi direction told reporters that Zara, as an internationally famous brand, has already recognized its responsibility for environmental pollution.
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< p > in addition, compared with the avoidance of Zara, Han Zhongwei, managing director of the Metersbonwe brand, the United States and the State Council, has completely denied that the matter has nothing to do with the company.
He said that the company's main business is brand retailing, and there is no manufacturer, so the company does not have environmental pollution problems.
Finally, he advises reporters to interview manufacturers.
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< p > and when the reporter inquired of Han Zhongwei's supplier, he said that there were hundreds of suppliers in the United States and had corresponding management methods.
"The company has a whole set of supplier selection criteria, of which there must be environmental standards."
Han Zhongwei said.
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< p > for the answer of Han Zhongwei, a manager of the United States, the director of the green peace pollution prevention project does not agree with her. She told reporters that "this gesture of the state of the United States is an irresponsibility." Li Yifang
She believes that branding providers have a great impact on suppliers. As brands, they should be fully aware of their social responsibilities for environmental pollution.
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< p > analysts have told reporters that frequent environmental pollution problems are largely due to inadequate supervision by government departments. At the same time, textile enterprises have not assumed their due social responsibilities.
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< p > it is understood that Greenpeace in last year's investigation found that the pollution of toxic chemicals to environmental pollution can be carried along with toxic clothing to consumers' living areas.
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< p > "last year, 78 clothes were sampled from 10 countries in the world, of which 2/3 samples of clothing were toxic and hazardous residues."
"We have detected a chemical residue called NPC, and found that when washing clothes, this substance will pform into a highly toxic substance named NP, which will affect the living environment of consumers," Li Yi told reporters.
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< p > from above, the harm of using toxic chemicals is not fully tested. It remains to be further studied whether other residues will affect consumers.
But from the above test results, who else would like to wear a poisonous clothing in the body? < /p >
< p > < strong > brand names should be "no" /strong for suppliers who violate the regulations. < /strong >
< p > "there are many famous brands in the world that do not have their own manufacturing factories, and they rely on outsourcing for production."
Li one direction reporter said.
Then, after outsourcing, does the brand need to be responsible for it?
"Yes!" this is Li's answer.
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< p > Li Yifang thinks that brand has the most control over clothing production.
"Branding has great influence on suppliers."
This is the conclusion of Li Fang's discussions with a number of brands and suppliers.
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Wang Jingjing, deputy director of the public environment research center, also told reporters that in the previous research, many brands did not have p manufacturers, and they were outsourced to suppliers, but brand enterprises were involved in larger ones.
Besides, big brands claim that their products are green products, but can they guarantee that the products supplied by suppliers are really green products? If not, they are irresponsible to consumers.
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< p > it is understood that the textile industry water pollution mainly occurs in two procedures, namely printing and dyeing and finishing procedures.
In fact, it is mainly for the supplier to choose toxic chemicals to save costs.
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< p > Wang Jingjing told reporters: "as a large buyer, the brand chamber of Commerce will lower the price, which will cause the supplier to use toxic chemicals to save costs."
She said that brands only focus on price and quality, which is at the expense of environmental pollution.
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< p > it is understood that although some alternatives can replace some toxic chemicals, the cost will increase. If the brand can give a grace to the price, then the supplier will also reduce the pollution.
"Brand operators can supervise suppliers through order pressure."
Wang Jingjing said.
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< p > Li Yifang suggested that branding should only work with responsible suppliers.
"If a large brand does not require pollution from suppliers, if the pollution problem arises, it will have a great impact on the brand itself."
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< p > Zhu Qinghua, a researcher at CIC light industry, believes that the pollution problem is a link in the apparel industry chain. Therefore, the impact of clothing listed companies is unavoidable. The main response is in terms of brand impact and cost control.
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In fact, the international environmental protection organization has provided suggestions for energy saving and water saving. If it can be implemented, the supplier will achieve a win-win situation of environmental protection and profit.
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< p > according to Wang Jingjing, "once a supplier has achieved the effect of electricity saving, water saving and coal saving through reusing water, it will enable suppliers to achieve a win-win environment and economy after rectification."
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< p > < strong > create pollution prevention power < /strong > /p >
< p > data show that China's 2/3 cities are facing a shortage of water resources, while limited water resources are being destroyed by sewage discharged.
Ma Jun, the founder of "water pollution map of China", said: "the motive force for creating water pollution control is a pressing matter of the moment."
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< p >, how can we create the power of water pollution prevention and control? Wang Jingjing believes that the relevant policies and consumer supervision will play a catalytic role.
Branding is also an important part of promoting environmental protection.
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< p > environmental protection organizations wrote in the survey report: "for retailers and brands, identifying the relevant factories in their supply chain and observing environmental laws and regulations as a necessary condition for business pactions with factories is extremely important.
In addition, retailers and branding firms should also formulate an overall supply chain policy that rewards environmental performance.
Suppliers who exceed basic standard requirements provide incentives for continuous progress in the whole industry.
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< p > Zhu Qinghua, a light industry researcher of CIC, believes that strengthening supervision and expanding information disclosure and using market means to guide enterprises to move towards energy saving and environmental protection are more critical.
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< p > in recent years, the public awareness of environment in China has been generally raised, and more regulatory information has been disclosed by government departments. Based on this, more than 97000 enterprises' environmental violation records have been collected on the Chinese pollution map, and public or buyer enterprises can easily retrieve them.
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< p > according to Li Yifang, at the end of last year, the Ministry of environmental protection has just issued a "registration method for environmental management of hazardous chemicals", which is a public consultation draft, including industry, experts, environmental protection organizations, etc., can make suggestions.
This year, a blacklist of dangerous chemicals is likely to be drawn up.
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< p > another brand spokesman told reporters that the company had been concerned about the problem of water pollution, and that the fabric should be tested accordingly.
"It is best to indicate the use of chemicals."
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