How To Train Qualified Buyers In Department Stores?
Sun Haixia, the P ZARA parent company and former INDITEX training manager and independent fashion buyer lecturer, said they were not.
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< p > as the first batch of local buyers trained by international fashion group in China, the key words of Sun Haixia's "buyer" work in the past more than 10 years are more statements, data, shops and hard work.
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< p > nowadays, in the environment of the overall profit and performance decline of China's department stores, the department stores that seek self employment return gradually realize that the biggest weakness of returning to self employment is the lack of "buyers".
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How can a department store train a qualified buyer? Should a department store build a large buyer team? < /p > p
Before P, reporters interviewed Sun Haixia exclusively to explore the essence of supply chain management in fashion and department stores.
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< p > Sun Haixia from Italy Long Jin company Beijing representative office chief representative, ZARA Beijing store men's clothing manager to China's largest luxury men's clothing group Trinity (Trinity), purchasing manager, to the international market famous department stores such as Messi department store and so on luxury men's clothing, and later to ZARA's parent company INDITEX, China Human Resources Training Manager, she explained from the practical point of view in the market why a buyer is so hard to find.
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< p > < strong > buyer's role: fast sales to reduce < a href= "http:// > www.91se91.com/news/index_c.asp > inventory < /a > /strong > /p >
Reporter P: in the eyes of the outside world, the buyer's occupation is the most fashionable occupation in the fashion trend. What is a buyer? What is a buyer's system? < /p >
< p > Sun Haixia: the buyer originated in Europe in the 1960s. The reason is that most of the students in design institutes were not hired as designers, so they sold their skills to department stores and said, "let me help you buy goods".
So these people as designers Assistant, help designers join the design and market, slowly extending the trend of buyers.
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< p > in an enterprise, the buyer initially called strategic buyer. In many companies, the buyer belongs to the commodity department, and the purchase plan from the procurement budget to the actual procurement plan is the buyer. The buyer's enterprise refers to the function of each department and the functions of the company's personnel, which is a kind of business form that operates quickly and targeted around the buyer's workflow.
They have a rigorous operation system and assessment system, such as ZARA in Spain and NIKE in the United States.
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< p > reporter: what basic skills are required for a qualified fashion buyer? < /p >
< p > Sun Haixia: if you want to become a fashion buyer of clothing major, first of all, the employees need the knowledge of clothing design, followed by the clothing market operation knowledge, including terminal retail experience and channel integration skills.
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< p > if you want to be a buyer, you should first do practical clothing design or marketing work in the enterprise, and learn more about related knowledge. After three years, you can become a buyer.
A mature buyer needs at least 5 to 6 years' work in this field, and it takes more than 8 years to be senior.
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< p > a good buyer, for a brand, he is a designer's regeneration, is to understand all these shopping malls, what his customers really like.
Buyers can play a role in letting stores have more accurate inventory and sell better so as to reduce inventory.
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< p > < strong > > a href= "http://? www.91se91.com/news/index_c.asp" > buyer < /a > four steps: "shop, pricing, purchase, promotion" < /strong > /p >
< p > reporter: the scarcity of the buyer makes the buyer's work mysterious. What are the actual jobs of a buyer? < /p >
< p > Sun Haixia: as a buyer, the first step in the beginning of a season is "walking shop".
At the same time, we should study the sales report and customer's main demands every week, and then integrate the information to the designer.
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< p > second steps, buyers need to know what the consumers' needs are, and do market research on their competitors. After the designer has designed the products, they have a real price. The price is not so simple.
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< p > reporter: what specific information do the buyers pay attention to when they go shopping? < /p >
< p > Sun Haixia: one is hard information, daily report, weekly report and monthly report, which may be classified into categories, and may be sold to sweaters. Sales reports can get a lot of information, such as the top ten styles and sales ranking. Through these figures, you can know your best-selling and unsalable funds.
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< p > ZARA every year will do centralized commodity training, train shop managers, employees, regional managers and other levels of people, and infiltrate large shops to do training.
The buyers of ZARA are all working in the Spanish headquarters. In China, only the store manager is part of the buyer's work, but few of his buyers decide how to distribute the goods in the Spanish warehouse to the shops in various countries.
Some of the goods allocated according to the system are not so well sold, and the regional managers will allocate them.
Its buyer management mode is the buyer's work in Spain headquarters, but will regularly visit the Chinese market.
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< p > reporter: how to price a buyer? < /p >
< p > Sun Haixia: a truly good brand must first understand the competitors of the market when operating the commodity price, and secondly, understand the brand's own market positioning.
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< p > in addition, pricing is the second core work of the buyer.
After the price is fixed, the buyer will make the purchase. There are different forms of purchase. Some brands will have dynamic show, some brands are static display, some brands even have no show, just buy cloth, which will test the buyer's skills.
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< p > when the international fashion market is publishing the trend of popularity, all the big international cards will be left for 15 days to buy by the buyers of the major department stores or dealers, and the amount of manual work is quite large and quite stressful.
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At the same time, every shop hopes to grow every year, which is why P should have close communication between buyers and sellers, and buyers should know what to buy more.
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< p > most people think that goods sold in warehouses are stock. In fact, as long as goods are shipped out of factories, they become inventories.
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Less than P, the most important thing for buyers is to reduce inventories.
Buyers are adopting the way of "procurement + merchandising", including pre design planning, and the elimination of inventory planning later.
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< p > buy a mobile phone system. For a brand, you should quickly gather your information into the store. He must know what size of each shop is broken, what size is not equal, and then make the allocation of goods, ultimately decide the market behavior: when to make sales promotion.
Many people who make joint decisions or suggestions are buyers.
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< p > < strong > the most difficult part for buyers: how to grasp the trend from < a href= "http:// www.91se91.com/news/index_c.asp" > Data < /a > /strong > /p >
< p > reporter: what kind of development stage is the domestic buyer in general? < /p >
< p > Sun Haixia: many of the buyers of domestic fashion and luxury brands in the early days of entering the Chinese market are Taiwanese, but gradually international enterprises begin to train local buyers in China, and cultivate local buyers who have a full understanding of the local market according to the needs of different brands.
Therefore, buyers need to understand China's local needs and preferences.
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< p > reporter: buying department stores is the direction that domestic department stores are seeking for pformation. But how to pform the operation mode from the joint operation system to the buyer's department store? < /p >
< p > Sun Haixia: whether it is department store or brand, it can train the existing shop team, such as purchasing, selling, shopkeeper and even cabinet leader, as a buyer.
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< p > reporter: for example, some visionary department stores in China, they went to textile university to recruit design students.
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< p > Sun Haixia: they have vision and need to make up for the knowledge of the market.
For example, what consumers want to buy from the 100 department stores depends on the sales data of the past years, and the design products should be diverged to the reality of consumption.
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< p > reporter: where is the most difficult part of the buyer's work? < /p >
< p > Sun Haixia: doing data analysis is the most difficult. To understand the report, we can see the problem of selling well and unsalable from the complicated reports, and grasp the trend through data analysis.
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< p > reporter: what data analysis methods do international large enterprises usually have? < /p >
< p > Sun Haixia: data analysis has different ways of analysis, and ZARA's information system has been established fairly well.
But what data to watch depends on the needs of buyers.
The data system itself is not complicated. People who study data need to have acuity. They can analyze the possible measures of competitors according to the reports.
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< p > reporter: what is the difference between a department store buyer's operation and a brand store buyer? < /p >
< p > Sun Haixia: there are many categories of buyers: one is the buyer of a brand, the other is a department store buyer, for example, the profits of large department stores are declining, they are facing pformation, and some have been closed down, changing the buying system. The buyers of department stores involve multi brand purchases; the other buyer is the buyer of the buyer who first mentioned the concept of buyer in the market, and even like Crawford, I.T and so on, they rely exclusively on buyers to understand the market, and make purchases with the major brands.
Buying a department store depends entirely on the buyer's understanding of the market. The department stores can not buy the right way, and easily cause the backlog of goods. When the backlog is to a certain extent, when the capital accumulates to a certain level, it will go bankrupt.
Team building, self buying buyers are very large teams, including purchasing director according to category, according to brand, these brands are rivals in the enterprise.
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< p > reporter: for department stores in recent years, the decline in performance and profits, including government departments in charge of the industry are advocating return to self employment, return to self employment, there must be no buyers. How to build a cost effective matching buyer team? < /p >
< p > Sun Haixia: in some department stores in China, there will be a certain proportion of self operated commodities, and the commodity department will be set up.
But some domestic joint Department stores do not have a commodity department.
In foreign countries, department stores will have a commodity department, there will be a sales department, other financial and routine departments will not mention it. What China lacks is how to work together with the sales department and the sales department.
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< p > reporter: what is the difference between private brand buyers? < /p >
< p > Sun Haixia: whether it is a large commodity department or a single buyer, it is necessary to have a good understanding of the popular market.
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< p > the establishment of a private brand buyer team requires people who know how to produce and develop products, who know about marketing and people who know how to serve.
Whether it's a large brand cooperative buyer or a R & D buyer, we need to understand the popular market. At the same time, no buyer who understands the Chinese market will not work.
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