Handmade Shoemaker: Artist On Foot Board

From the beginning of the first stone piece, human civilization is moving forward through manual labor.

With the roaring of the first machine, a pair of skillful hands were replaced by machines that did not understand fatigue and speed, and the earth began to echo the sigh of loss.

Eighteenth Century

Britain began the industrial revolution, greatly improving the social productive forces, enriching people's material life, and changing people's way of life and ideology.

The wheel of the age is moving forward, machine production completely takes the place of manual labor, and street products are everywhere.

Until today, we begin to recall the cute hand and miss the sincerity of delicate hand-made products.

The warmth and soul of handicraft hidden on objects are hard to smell and touch on the products copied on the line.

Also because of the hard truth that things are scarce, nowadays, "hand-made" (handmade) has become a new term of pride again. From Italy to New York, "handcraft" has become a trend of life in the international top fashion of life.

From "

To create "to create in China", Chinese traditional handicrafts are also looking forward to becoming "creating" powerful pacemakers.

From NE TIGER founder Zhang Zhifeng in hand embroidered embroidery to the top and bottom brand made by Jiang Qiong ear, the handicraft industry started a difficult revival in our country. This is not only a commercial exploration of individual brands, but also a collective memory of our life in this era.

This magazine will introduce the manual trend series to show the persistence and breakthroughs of Chinese handicraftsmen who burst forth new vitality in the age of machine industry.

Editor

In the small door face, all kinds of hand-made shoes are waiting on the shelf quietly on the shelf. The crowd in the Old Drum Tower Street in Beijing is bustling.

Some of the work clothes were whitish, and a pair of thick hands pressed through the leather with a needle. The needle went through 20 spring and Autumn Periods.

Today's leather shoes market is basically mechanical manufacturing flow production, in the "mass production" and "scale" of the moment, it is difficult to have manual passion to create.

Master Yu insisted on the Old Drum Tower Street, "watching people wear my sewing shoes, my heart is satisfied, I insist, hoping to pass on this old craft."

During the August 10th ~29 day, reporters visited Beijing and Shanghai, and found that in the fashion industry, hand-made shoes are now the representatives of high-end air. The price of hand-made shoes is high and teachers earn a lot of money. However, due to the complex and laborious process, manual customization is now facing a lot of trouble.

Reporter's notes

The 60 process.

"Shoes are comfortable and uncomfortable, only you know."

He Kaiying, a teacher who has been a shoe maker for more than 30 years, has been interviewed by reporters as he measured the shoes of his guests.

"It's not difficult to make a pair of shoes. It's hard to make a good pair of shoes. If you know how to use smart and calm down, you can only serve this bowl of rice."

Through the needle, He Kaiying handed out the essentials of handmade customization.

Measuring feet, shaping, design, sample and painting.

There are more than 60 processes in the production of a pair of leather shoes. Yu said that if the preparation is enough, the shoemaking speed will take two weeks.

If it needs to be completely redesigned, it may take a month.

Master Yu regarded every pair of leather shoes as works of art. He said, "people believed that I was making shoes for me, and I had to give them a good job, so I was very strong in every needle."

"None of the shoes on the shoe rack of the shoe store in our shop is for sale, only as a sample of the custom-made style.

Women's shoes are not many styles, because the styles of women's shoes are more quickly renovated, so shops usually do not make shoes in advance for customers to choose. Customers can customize their own magazines or shoes, and provide similar or similar cortex production in the store.

Master Yu told reporters that the price of a pair of shoes customized from 200 yuan to more than 1000 yuan, the main difference lies in the choice of leather materials and master manual labor time and effort.

The reporter saw in Beijing Changping District Huoying's Master Zhang's hand-made leather shoes store that the custom-made price of imported women's shoes is about 400 yuan, which is also a grade that customers choose the most. The price of men's shoes is slightly higher than that of the class men's shoes, which is more than 500 yuan.

The custom-made cycle is about 10 days, and the business of hand made shoes is very popular every season.

Zhang said, "there are all kinds of guests, white collar workers, and feet with diseases, such as those born with big feet and small feet."

"Door-to-door feet", young entrepreneurs to customize high-end routes

In a hotel in Huaihailu Road, Shanghai, the reporter met Chen Jun, who provided guests with feet and feet service.

Chen Jun, 28, is a rare young man in this business.

7 years ago, Chen Jun repaired his shoes on the street side of Shanghai and met his own master.

"Master used to be responsible for proofing in Shanghai leather shoes factory, and later came out to repair shoes stalls."

Chen Jun found business opportunities in chatting with his shoe repair master. "Master shoes can earn more than 1 yuan a month. He has the craft of making leather shoes, because no one can help him, so he can only" give up shoes to repair shoes. "

Chen Jun quit his job and worked with his master to set up a customized shop. He put some fashionable and personalized shoes into the store, and the customers provided their own sizes.

"The customers who customize the shoes online are mainly fashion personalities. They are not very willing to wear the same shoes as others. Some people want to customize their shoes with their own designs."

Liu Jun expanded his business from the Internet to the physical store. He also learned from the identification of leather and the basic shoemaking process, and gradually measured his feet to learn how to make shoes.

"Elderly customers, their feet are easy to get tired, the leather cortex should be softer; the shoes worn on special occasions should be combined with the costumes and identity of the guests," Chen Jun said.

Chen Jun also absorbed and pformed the "door-to-door service" in foreign countries. "From appointments to designers, for every guest, it is a production team's" point to point "service.

"People who are rich but have no time to go shopping are usually bought by individuals who pursue individuality and identity.

We provide door-to-door service, staff with epithelial materials, samples, selected by customers, measure the size of customers' feet and go back to production.

Such high-end customization, the price of each pair of shoes is in the range of 1000 yuan to tens of thousands of yuan.

Traditional old technology, no successor, facing lost predicament

Although hand made leather shoes business is booming, young people like Chen Jun rarely do this business.

When I resigned, my colleagues heard that I wanted to learn how to make shoes. Many people were surprised and sneered at it.

Chen Jun said.

"Making leather shoes, many young people think that they are shoes mending. They look down on us.

Some people have been away for a few years without having enough pain.

Master Yu said, "learning to make shoes is not like going to school. Even after finishing examinations, shoemaker is groping and improving all his life."

Lao Yu used to bring apprentices. When they first contacted, the young people had enough energy. But after learning for a month, they could not sit up.

He Kaiying chose young people to have their own set of standards for joining the inline school to make shoes.

"A lot of girls can't do this, because doing handmade shoes is a hard work, but you can't do it, but you have to see the savvy, the patience and the character."

He Kaiying said that the technology of domestic shoe raising has been inherited by the form of teacher apprentice. After two years' inspection, he picked out 3 from more than 10 candidates.

Li Da Jie, who is a shoe maker at Lianxing Ge, West Fourth Avenue, Beijing, said that during the peak season, she would draw dozens of feet in one day, do hundreds of pairs of leather shoes a month, and have no time to eat lunch. "I hope there are more young people coming to take over. My eyes have been spent for several years. Unfortunately, no one has passed on this craft."