Those Who Cut Clothes For Leaders

Here in the world Clothing shoes and hats The editor of www. website.com.cn introduced the high-end customization of Chinese clothing to everyone. Who has ever cut clothes for leaders.

Because Peng Liyuan, President Xi Jinping's wife, chose "useless" and "exceptional" domestic clothing brands during her visit, Chinese local clothing brands became popular overnight, and the "first lady concept stock" came into being. For a while, China's high-end customized clothing (hereinafter referred to as "high-end customization") industry was suddenly pushed into the spotlight and attracted unprecedented attention.

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According to public data, at the end of 2012, Clothing industry The total inventory of 42 listed companies reached 48.3 billion yuan. Some critics pointed out that even if all garment factories in China were closed, these stocks would be enough for all Chinese to consume for three years.

On the one hand, there is overcapacity of popular clothing products, and on the other hand, there is growing consumption capacity of Chinese people. Can this "most dazzling Chinese style" brought by "high-end customization" make China's clothing industry go on a golden road from now on?

"The Crown in Garment Manufacturing"

"High end" means superior materials and exquisite craftsmanship, while "customized" production means that each garment has only one owner.

The royal garment makers in the palace can be regarded as the earliest high-end customization practitioners in China. In the middle of last century, with the rapid expansion of ready-made clothing production lines, the high-end customization industry was lonely for a time, and only the Beijing Hongdu Clothing, which was tailored for national leaders, had the same scenery for a while.

At present, with the increasing consumption level of people and the gradual change of consumption concept, high-end customization of domestic clothing is re emerging. Zhang Qinghui, vice chairman of the China Fashion Designers Association and vice chairman of the China Fashion Association, introduced to the reporter that in Beijing, Shanghai and other first tier cities, high-end customer groups are increasingly demanding personalized and functional clothing, which has spawned a new era of high-end customization industry.

"High end" usually means high price, and expensive raw materials are an important reason for the high price of high-end customization. Zhan Yingjie, the managing director of China National Garments Corporation (hereinafter referred to as China National Garments, 000902. SZ), told reporters that many high-end customized clothing fabrics will use natural high-grade materials such as cashmere and silk, and the price is often several times or even dozens of times that of ordinary fabrics. The price of a suit is often tens of thousands of yuan. If the accessories are matched with precious metals or precious jewelry, the price will soar. In the Rose Workshop of Guo Pei, a famous designer, those gorgeous dresses with gold and color inlay are often priced at more than one million yuan.

In addition to high prices and expensive materials, another feature of high-end customization is "pure handmade". Compared with machine processing, clothes made by hand will be more comfortable and close fitting. However, exquisite handcrafting also means high labor costs. According to the reporter, an Italian worker would charge 15 euros (about 120 yuan) to lock a buttonhole for a suit.

In the opinion of Li Guilian, chairman of Dalian Dayang Chuangshi Co., Ltd., a clothing enterprise, advanced customization is the crown in the clothing manufacturing industry.

Make "the most considerate" clothes

At present, there are designer studios and well-known enterprises engaged in high-end customization in China.

Wang Yutao, a famous fashion designer, has been engaged in high-end customization of clothing in his personal studio since 2007. In his opinion, "more often, a truly high-quality customized clothing not only includes expensive fabrics and exquisite craftsmanship, but also respects the clothing habits of guests and meets special requirements."

"Many business clients over 40 often have the opportunity to attend negotiations, dinners, ceremonies and other occasions, but some of them have grown fat, and it is difficult to choose a style suitable for them when they go to the mall to buy clothes. This is not a problem for people, but the clothes are not considerate enough." Zhan Yingjie told reporters that they are different from ordinary clothes, High end customization is to "develop strengths and avoid weaknesses, and let every guest have their own look in it, regardless of body size and age". In order to meet the clothing needs of high-end customers, Chinese clothing has created a high-end customized brand, "Sheji", which employs Italian designers and craftsmen to design and produce clothing.

Political and business elites and performance stars are the most favored customers for high-end customization. Generally speaking, these people are also highly loyal to clothing brands. Once a designer or brand is selected, they usually visit many times.

According to the reporter, "word of mouth" is an important way for high-end customization to open the market. Since the establishment of the brand, Zhan Yingjie has met friends, and the opening topic is almost all about the benefits of "the country". She will also invite friends to try on her own brand... In her opinion, this way of communication is very effective, because many people will deeply like this feeling from the moment they wear "the country".

In Wang Yutao's studio, sometimes the sales find customers, sometimes the customers come to visit. "Engaging in high-end customization must have a profound accumulation. Neither designers nor producers can engage in high-end customization as soon as they start their career." He told reporters that this accumulation includes both the proficiency of skills and the influence of designers and brands.

　 Refined products polished by time

"High end customization can make a designer famous, but it cannot guarantee that he will become rich," Mario Boselli, president of the Italian Fashion Association, told reporters.

Due to the high cost and pressure in the early stage, few designers or enterprises specialize in high-end customization. Wang Yutao said that these financial pressures usually need to be shared by the garment production business. Although he and the studio are willing to invest more energy in high-end customization, the reality is that if only high-end customization is done, the studio may not be able to support itself. Although the price of high-end customized clothing is very high, compared with the material and time costs behind each piece of clothing, the profit is not high. Zhan Yingjie revealed to reporters that "Sheji" has been established for more than a year. Although its customer base is growing, it has not yet made a profit.

"High end customized clothing takes a lot of time to polish, and you can't make really high-quality things in a short time." Wang Yutao told reporters that a high-end customized clothing, whether men's clothing or women's clothing, requires a period of one month or even several months from design to completion because of the different complexity of the process. Sometimes, when making a women's dress, because of the special materials such as silk, the material must hang for at least 48 hours, so that the yarn can well comply with the gravity, making the hem of the women's dress feel elegant and flexible.

In Zhan Yingjie's opinion, the market scale of high-end customization will not be too large, because "this is not a product on the assembly line after all".

Zhang Qinghui believes that with the upgrading of consumption level and consumption structure, the market for high-end customization will become larger and larger, and highlighting personalization and satisfying emotional consumption experience should always be the principle of high-end customization. "At present, well done designers and brands in China have one thing in common: they always take customer needs as the core value. They focus on quality and details, strive to meet every requirement of consumers, and strive for perfection in design, thus forming a good reputation among customers."

　 Industries that can't make quick money

With the popularity of "useless" and "exceptional", many people associate high-end customization with "the hope of national brand", and the continuous good news in the capital market makes hot money eager.

"This is not an industry that can make fast money. To do a good job in this industry, you need to have faith, persistence, and love. It is different from doing business, and will not have high returns." Wang Yutao told reporters, "high-end customization requires very high technology, and workers must have at least 10-15 years of experience. People under the age of 30 cannot engage in high-end customization."

Zhan Yingjie, a designer who is familiar with China's clothing industry chain, believes that one of the problems facing the entire domestic clothing industry is that everyone runs too fast in order to get volume and profit, and often ignores details - this is a problem encountered when making clothes, but also a problem of the entire clothing industry. To do high-end customization, we need to jump out of this industrial thinking and "be tolerant of loneliness, standards and losses".

Chinese clothing is also seeking a breakthrough. The orders of "Sheji" were all made by Italians before. Although the craftsmanship was guaranteed, the production cycle was too long. The company selected more than a dozen workers with nearly 20 years of work experience from its factories and companies to try to make their own according to the samples brought back from Italy. Now, there is no obvious difference between the works of these workers and the Italian samples, and the cost has been greatly reduced. The price of clothes can also be accepted by more people. "Choosing foreign design and processing is ultimately for your own learning and improvement," Zhan Yingjie said.

"Foreign high-end customized brands often have more fitting times, and some brands sometimes even have to fit for 10 times. In China, this is obviously unrealistic. Chinese people are too busy, and sometimes they get tired of trying once or twice." Zhan Yingjie said that saving time, minimizing the number of fitting times and ensuring the quality are another challenge that customers bring to China's high-end customized brands.

"Chinese people do not lack skills, but they lack vision. High end customization is really an industry forged by time. The road ahead of this industry may be golden, but it may not be broad, and the latecomers are still cautious." She said.

　 High end customization of Chinese clothing

Red Sect Tailor

After the Opium War, in Ningbo, the earliest trading port, there were many Europeans called "Red Hair", and many Ningbo tailors made clothes for them, hence the name "Red Sect tailors". Later, Hong Gang tailors moved to Shanghai to customize clothes for celebrities from all walks of life. They are the early high-end customization practitioners in the modern history of China. In the history of Chinese clothing, "Hongbang Tailors" created five firsts: China's first suit, the first Zhongshan suit, the first suit shop, the first monograph on suit theory, and the first suit craft school.

　　 Hongdu

In 1956, the later Beijing Hongdu Garment Co., Ltd. was formed by the merger of seven clothing stores, including Bowei, Zacun and Lantian, which moved to Beijing in Shanghai, and the processing plant affiliated to the General Office of the Central Committee. Hongdu insists on personalized customization services. It has served Mao Zedong, Deng Xiaoping, Jiang Zemin, Hu Jintao and other party and state leaders, as well as foreign leaders such as Prince Sihanouk, Princess Monique, President Bush, and is the first high-end customized clothing company in New China.

　 Designer brand

Guo Pei, a well-known designer in the clothing industry, accidentally customized a dress for actor Bao Rong, opening her dream of "advanced customization". In 1997, she founded Beijing Rose Square Fashion Co., Ltd., from then on, she devoted herself to high-end customization and designed dresses for many stars and various evening parties. Therefore, Guo Pei was called "China Evening Party"