Fashion Designer And Brand Pformation

The fashion circle is bright in the layman's eyes, and the inner circle is always at the forefront of fashion.

But few people know that it is hard to describe the pain behind fashion.

Fashion circles are doomed to be eventful.

For luxury goods, designers are an important part of the continuation of brand brilliance. For designers, luxury brands will give them more room for development and make themselves famous.

However, there is no established standard for fashion. Designers can instantly change themselves from obscurity to popularity.

Looking at today's fashion circles, it is hard to find Chanel masters and Yifu Saint Laurent, who have influenced designers for a century. They are more and more familiar with design talents.

The former king was no longer the winner at the moment; the successor withdrew during the rush hour, and the original man returned to the nest.

In short, the fashion industry seems to be merciless, and it may not win the gold medal without making money.

Under the rapid changes of the trend, designers of various brands have resignation and promotion, and also have two brands at the same time. Some designers are playing a game of "robbing chairs".

In the eyes of people, the "insiders" who are vulgarity are not the same.

Fashion circles also have brutal fighting and competition. Sometimes, they may be even better than other circles.

Brand changing handsome

Looking back at fashion week in 2014, Jason Wu first held the early autumn series of Hugo Boss's Boss series of women's clothing, ghosts Jeremy Scott joined the debut of Milan fashion week after joining Moschino, and the personal brand show after Marc Jacobs left LV, it is a lot to see.

Designers, after changing chairs, have their own wonderful things.

Job hopping is a common practice for designers, but not everyone is willing to leave.

The renewal of brand designers is getting more and more intense in the fashion world where the fittest surviving. From the Nicolas Ghesquiere, the resignation of Paris family, from Alexander Wang to Hedi Slimane to Yves Saint Laurent, and then to John Galliano, after the dismissal was dismissed by the terrorists, each topic was the hot topic at that time, and the most dramatic of course was the change of fortune.

People in the fashion world must remember the show of Jil Sander two years ago in Milan's autumn and winter fashion week. The show didn't have the big stars to join in, the show layout was also simple, but it was touching: as the model came out of the curtain, the applause lasted for a long time, and Raf Simons used the mouth to say "I LOVE YOU". After a long time, she cried and said goodbye to the brand of the work for 7 years.

For Jil Sander, Raf Simons is definitely a loyal designer and has made a great contribution to leading the brand to a new height.

But loyalty does not always have a good result. When the original designer wants to return, even loyalty will be abandoned.

Milan newspapers used "Jil Sander no more eye catching fashion show" to give high praise to Raf Simons's farewell show. At the same time, Raf Simons was indignant because Jil Sander returned to "become a middle-aged unemployed man" after class.

However, diligent and talented people always have good results.

After more than a month of silence, Raf Simons beat Riccardo Tisci, Alexander Wang, Marc Jacobs and other designers, and became the new design director of Dior.

Tesa, who graduated from the Raffles School of international design, Donghua University, now lives in New York and has opened a brand design shop on the Internet, can be said to be a fan of Raf Simons.

Raf Simons's farewell show, her tender colors and minimalist costumes, impressed her, "it's nice and practical."

She told reporters that she still couldn't understand why Jil Sander had to kick off loyal Raf Simons.

What she is more worried about is that Raf Simons's anti luxury, anti sex and Dior feminine luxury style are not in tune.

"Raf Simons is an admirable designer, but he is far from the star effect of John Galliano and Karl Lagerfeld. His low key is his label."

Tesa's worry is not without reason. The big designer Valentino also raised her own doubts when she talked about Dior's replacement. "I'm not sure whether Raf Simons is suitable for taking over Dior. This is a great job and is hard to replace.

I think the important thing is that Dior should not choose the designer lightly because of the pressure. It is a brand that needs logical continuity. "

However, Bernard Arnault, the boss of LVMH, does not think so.

In his view, Dior chose Raf Simons to "bring the iconic style of Dior to twenty-first Century". This choice conveys the brand's desire to take a more modern route, and also aims at the ability of Raf Simons to cultivate strong fans in the Jil Sander era.

He is not so compelling as his predecessor Galliano, but he will not be born with a low profile.

Big cards are not popular.

In fact, the wrestling between star designers and brands has been going on.

The designer of the bigger brand has no doubt that he has more opportunities and is more likely to be taken away. It is not easy to do "loyalty" in a brand.

In recent years, brand pformation of designers has also made it easier for big designers to quit.

Market emergencies, salary problems and internal affairs may be the reasons for designers to leave.

Fashion business is becoming more and more utilitarian. It is also the reason why the director of design is not ready to die.

In recent years, brands seem to be trying to undermine the designer's star effect.

The old fashions Herm, s, Alexander McQueen and Emanuel Ungaro say goodbye to the radiant Alexander McQueen and Jean Paul Gualtier, and did not choose the popular stars with the same star effect.

Dior also did not choose Marc Jacobs or Alber Elbaz with a much higher style. Instead, she chose solid designers.

Critics have attributed these phenomena to the general trend of post crisis era.

Indeed, in the 90s of last century, hiring a big designer was an important move to rebuild many of its long history of high fashion brands, and many brands were successful.

But now, the times have been different, Givenchy changed a lot of big brand designers can not go out of the dilemma, and eventually rely on "non - big" Riccardo Tisci to live back, but also let the brand realize that the return of the mainstream obviously can bring greater commercial interests.

"The influence of big designer will be smaller and smaller, especially for those brands that need to be interpreted by the board for sales decline."

It is also in this case that brand changes become more frequent.

"We are witnessing a tug of war between a design team and management.

The strategy adopted by management to adapt to fast-paced fashion has severely hit designers' creativity, and the embarrassment of designers being squeezed and exploited has in turn restricted sales.

Paris strategy consulting firms creative director Lucian James said in an interview.

In July 3, 2012, almost all the most famous contemporary designers gathered in a beautiful sea of flowers, waiting for the first series of Raf released in Paris's advanced custom fashion week after taking office Dior, which is quite different from the Dior era style of John Galliano. The Dior lady of Raf is simple, rational and elegant, while the former, as you all know, is full of fantastical romanticism.

Sure enough, the comments were mixed with the show, and the appreciative people said that Raf brought Dior back to the elegance of Mr. Christian Dior.

The questioner pointed out that if the advanced customization is so succinct, it will lose its significance.

John fans are also strongly dissatisfied with Raf.

However, Raf quickly released 4 series of costumes and won the compliment of the fashion industry through its holiday Series in Monaco.

Skipping colors and irregular tailoring give light texture. The design of shoes has brightened the whole body. The metal zipper has greatly increased the modern sense and real wear of the dress. The new lace element is more accessible. The hidden mesh also increases the mystery. But according to the old, you can find the original style of Dior from the graceful profile, and the strong sense of seaside vacation is permeated from the flowing skirt.

Dior is endowed with strong Raf color, attracting more and more new Raf admirers.

"After seeing the 2013 series of Dior, I hung up a heart and finally put it down.

Although no predecessor designer Galliano is gorgeous, yet the details and concise and elegant clipping seem to be moving back to the age of Christian Dior.

Tesa said.

Hard earned money

For brands, what is needed is a continuation of its centennial foundation, balancing business and art, weighing the global market, controlling the personality and the overall design of the business genius rather than a wild and unruly artist.

This led us to see the brand as a soap opera every season, to see the beginning of the play, but did not guess the ending.

As a result, the media, fashion workers, fans and so on are all spectators who go to the theatre too deeply. Finally, the number of box office is increased for the brand self guided play.

For designers, designers also need to find their own brands.

Although it is true that designers need to carry out drastic reform and innovation on the road of brand development, the direction of designers' reform must be the brand's own desire.