Key Points Of Shoemaking Technology For Shoemaking Technology
1, the cause of bad adhesive in shoemaking process
1. The drying temperature is too low or too high. It should be maintained at 55 C - 65 C.
2. Drying time is not enough to paste, usually 5-8 minutes.
3. After gluing, it will be blown by the wind.
After being glued, the moisture will cause the surface to be white mist.
The quality of the adhesive is poor.
The amount of glue is not enough.
2. Sewing shoes
The sewn shoes are split through (including inner bottom), layering (no inner bottom), sewing seam (machine sewing and manual sewing).
3. Molded shoes
1. The upper and the insole are stretched and shaped on the shoe last, then converted to metal last, then placed in the bottom mold cavity with glue, and then formed by high temperature vulcanization of the mould press.
2. The upper and the bottom (canvas) are sewn by sewing machines, then directly covered with metal last, then placed in the bottom mold cavity with glue, and then formed by high temperature vulcanization of the mould press.
The injection pressure technology is suitable for travel shoes. The bottom process is roughly the same as that of the molding process.
5, vulcanized shoes
The combination of the surface and the middle sole is similar to that of the sleeve, and the sewing machine is used to sew, and not to stretch, and directly cover the aluminum last.
6. Classification of heels
Men's leather shoes are flat below 20mm, half high heel 25-35mm, high heel 40mm above.
Women's leather shoes are below 25mm, half high heel 30-35mm, high heel 55-70mm, and high heel 70mm above.
Heel Technology: roll with (OWL), press follow (press palm), slope heel.
Men's shoes 25 1/2, equivalent to 59mm, women's shoes 23 1/2 is equivalent to 55mm.
7, what is "Goodyear structure" (Goodyear)?
Goodyear structure (Goodyear) is a unique design of world class shoes. In the design of shoe upper, it is a way of double stitching between the inner and outer sides of the shoe. The shoe upper and soles are firmly clamped together to withstand any impact and twisting. The sweat absorbing bottom, breathable insole, super soft sponge outlet and sole lining are comfortable and comfortable.
8. Requirements for different sports shoes
Football shoes: waterproof, shoes front and heel to be hard, with wearable bulges.
Tennis shoes: good air permeability and moderate heel.
3. Running shoes: the sole is of moderate curvature and light weight.
B, basket, shoes: good air permeability, flat heel and shockproof system is especially important.
Bowling, bowling shoes: good air permeability, flat heel, and the front part of the shoe has a shockproof system. The front of the shoe has a strong protective layer.
9, shoe last has "four points flat" and "three points and one line".
The "four point" refers to the point of heel, the outer toe, the first metatarsophalangeal point, and the fifth metatarsophalangeal point. When the body is standing, these four points are equally focused on the ground. Only these four points are on the same plane, and the standing of the human body is smooth enough.
"Three points and one line" means the front end of the last point, the end point of the last bottom, and the end point after the end of the system is in the same straight line.
10. National safety standards for leather
The national safety standards for leather are:
Tensile strength 6.4n/mm2
Tear strength 18n/mm
11, the shape of the last head.
The basic shape of the last part is as follows:
Round head: thick and round.
2. Small round head: slightly round, slightly round through the round head, double called middle round head.
3. Sharp tip: head shaped with fine tips.
Square head: Square last. There are two kinds of styles on the last surface: corrugated and non corrugated.
Small square head: square corner and head shape are small. There are two kinds of styles on the last surface: corrugated and non corrugated.
The head is tilted outward.
The last point is flat, with square and round points.
The shape of the head is round and high, and the front end of the shoe is pushed forward.
Points for attention, the design of jogging shoes and the protection of heels.
12, last line processing:
Square head: the feature of the head type is square and straight, so the outline lines of the parts should be straight from the front of the shoe closer. For example, the Baotou line of the upper style, the outline of the door, and the contour of the front cover are generally better treated with straight lines.
2. Round head: this shoe last shape is circular, and the contour of the front part should be based on the arc line. For the wider circular head, the metatarsophalangeal part of the metatarsophalangeal part is relatively flat, so the contour of the component near this part can be used with a straight line, so that it looks like a full sense of beauty.
3. Sharp nose: this type of last shape is round and straight. The contour of the front part is straight and vertical. It requires some circles to make the lines prominent.
Flat head: the head of this type of last name is named because it is thin and thin. The contour line of the front part of the front part is straight and square in appearance.
The head of this shoe last is high and round. When dealing with the contour of the upper part, it should use the arc line to match.
13, the proportion of each part of the upper shoe should be designed according to the rule of foot shape. The following technical requirements should be observed, and the proportion of each component should be determined according to the rule of foot type.
Upper
The back is too high, it will cause the heel pain; too low can not clip the heel; the front arm is too long, the wrist pain is painful when the wrist is bent; the back is too high, it will hurt the ankles (low side style). The size of the door is not only difficult to wear, but the door is broken easily when it comes out of the last door. It is too long for the shoe outside Baotou to squeeze the toes. The position of the front and back sides is not designed according to the rule of the foot type. When walking, there will be quality problems such as broken sides and skin cracks.
14, the sense of line and fat and thin
For the thinner shoes, the upper part should be less attractive. And the lines can be bent as much as possible, which will give people a feeling of fullness.
For the fatter shoes: on the contrary to the thin shoes, it requires the upper part of the shoe to be arranged as much as possible, the outline of the parts should be straight and good, and the parts should be arranged in the back to make people feel thin.
15, the general rule of low shoe design is:
The height of the upper and rear heels depends on the position of the ankles and the basic requirements for the shoes to be firm and free from the feet.
2. The upper end of the shoe ears should not be too high, so as not to affect the activities of ankles and joints.
3. The length of front face should not be too long, so that feet will not penetrate easily. However, it should not be too low, otherwise the toe and toe fold line generated by walking will destroy the positive appearance of the foot.
The outsourced head should not be too long to prevent grinding to the instep.
In addition, certain proportions of shoes, especially the former Gang, make some changes. For example, the front side of the inner ear shoe without Baotou is about 5mm shorter than that of Baotou, and the front length of the low price shoe is shorter than that of the high price shoe because the material is less expensive.
16, the design rules for short boots are:
Boots should pay attention to the relationship between feet and feet. The shoe and foot should be right or right, but the angle will change as the heel height increases. The heel is increased, the vertex is symmetrical with the forward and straight line, and the high boots design is tailored.
17, high boots should pay attention to two key points:
The rear camber along the front of the boot and the width of the boot on the ankle line.
1. The inclination along the front of the boot is square with the height. If the heel of the high boots is low heel, the front of the boot can be at right angles to the horizontal coordinate line of the Cartesian coordinate; if the heel of the high boots is high heel, the front line of the boot should lean backwards.
2. High boots without zippers, the boot should be zipped or tied with high boots width in the ankle line. The length and the length of the boot can be at least the same as that of the shoe last.
18, five problems should be paid attention to in the design of sandalwood.
1. attention must be paid to radians. When the radians increase, the fatness becomes smaller.
2. attention must be paid to heel height. The higher the height is, the smaller the fatness.
3. attention must be paid to the length. The length is increased and the fatness is also smaller.
4., we must pay attention to the tightness of the foot muscles. The muscles are tight and the fat is increased; the muscles are loose, and the fatness becomes smaller.
5., we must pay attention to design factors, design healthy and functional shoes, and fatness will increase.
19, five problems must be paid attention to when measuring shoe last fat.
1. check whether the last back line is correct.
2. check whether the length of the ground wire is correct.
3. check whether the ratio of internal and external fertilizer is correct.
4. the basic point of measuring the degree of change will move with height.
5. data from the bottom of the last floor to the top of the floor.
20, the design of jogging shoes and the protection of heels.
Many people know that the first step in jogging will bring a three times weight impact to the feet. Most of these forces will be concentrated on the heel, so regular people tend to have backache because of the excessive impact of the heel. A new kind of jogging shoe, which effectively reduces the heel pressure, has recently been designed for athletes who run two or three times a week. The purpose of these people's running is leisure and sweating, which requires absolute comfort. Therefore, manufacturers use five air cushions especially in heels, so that heels can be well cared for and run more easily.
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