Popular Fabric Is The Trend Of Research And Development.
In recent years, domestic
textile
The industry has begun a difficult pformation, restructuring the textile industry ecosystem.
However, many problems still plague many textile enterprises.
The order type mass production mode is contrary to the current market demand of small quantity and style. Traditional fabric products are hard to attract the eye of domestic clothing; the salesperson oriented fabric marketing mode is facing the challenge and pformation of the "buyer fabric designer" marketing mode.
"Multi varieties, small batch and quick refurbishment become the trend, and the equipment, process, process, system and idea of most production enterprises are ready for mass production. Personalized customization will bring many challenges to enterprises."
Sun Ruizhe, vice president of China Textile Industry Federation, thinks that all problems point to the pformation of supply chain mode that must be made to consumers and products.
Trend fabric research and development "cross boundary"
"China will be the future world."
Spin
Center. "
Despite the adverse effects of overcapacity and declining profits, the whole industry is facing tough challenges, but the participants are sympathetic.
"Return to the nature of products" has also become the industry consensus.
"Current product appeal includes: style, function, ecology, culture, price, delivery time, quality and so on."
Li Binhong, director of the national textile product development center, believes that the textile industry is experiencing "crossover". The textile used for clothing fabrics can also be used in shoemaking, such as flying shoes. Some lace fabrics are also applied to shoe materials, as well as smart wearable products and textiles.
The denim industry is more concerned about sustainability tannin, so that the recycling technology is becoming more and more environmentally friendly. For example, a foreign brand of jeans, that is, the use of recycled polyester fabric, a denim fabric contains 8 cola bottles.
Cross boundary, so that traditional textiles extend more applications.
"Cross border has become another fashion."
Wu Huanming, chief designer of Beijing Shang Shang design studio, said that the crossover between "women's wear + men's wear", "formal dress + sports" and "characteristics and changes" has become a trend in the next few years.
For example, the variation of pure wool and real silk is usually used only for silk fabrics in summer. After mutation, it can also be used for winter fabrics, bringing new experiences to consumers.
Of course, such crossover must satisfy "comfort".
He found that Chinese men have the highest degree of comfort.
Previously, a Italy designer pushed a knitted fabric in Europe for 5 years and spent only 2 years in China, mainly due to fabric comfort.
Focus on fragmentation orders to promote change
The domestic textile industry has long been accustomed to mass production and order production mode, and now it has suffered a great impact.
In a recent speech, Lv Yan, a fashion designer's famous brand, described the predicament of purchasing fabrics.
2 years ago, when she went to the Shanghai excipient market, she found that the fabric merchants had to order thousands of meters, and few people took care of her.
She later took part in a fabric exhibition in Italy, and found that the fabric supplier not only introduced enthusiastically, but even started 50 meters.
"Both foreign trade and domestic sales are faced with an unavoidable contradiction.
Order
The contradiction between fragmentation and scale of production. "
Sun Ruizhe, vice president of China Textile Industry Federation, said that many varieties, small batch and quick refurbishment have become the trend, and the equipment, process, process, system and idea of the production end of most enterprises are ready for mass production. The customization will bring many challenges to the enterprise: quality assurance is difficult, the demand for workers is higher; time limit control is difficult; customer orders are relatively fragmented and unplanned, bringing new challenges to the supply chain stocking and schedule scheduling; cost control is difficult, personalized customization requires more varieties, but the quantity of single batch is not large, so it is difficult to form a procurement regulatory effect, resulting in rising cost.
He believes that manufacturing enterprises can achieve more profits by three ways: increase production and marketing rates, reduce inventories and reduce operating costs.
In these three ways, there is a limit to reducing inventories and reducing operating costs, while increasing production and marketing rates to make more profits is endless.
Therefore, for the enterprise operation management, it is the key to pform the traditional supply chain and finally realize the flexible supply chain.
In fact, some large textile enterprises have changed the supply chain.
"Our production model is divided into two types, for Anta, XTEP and other large batch of large enterprises service order production, as well as for the uniqo, such as" more style, less inventory "of the fast - paced production model.
Mei Kebing, marketing director of Fujian Longfeng Textile Technology Industrial Co., Ltd. believes that this mode of production is also tested by the market situation, for example, fast-paced production is limited to fast accounts.
To promote small batch production, in addition to changes in the supply chain, the use of new production technology and intelligent production equipment can also be achieved.
For example, Li Binhong said that many textile enterprises are introducing digital technology, such as digital jacquard and digital embroidery, which can adapt to the "small batch and multi variety" mode.
What kind of fabric does the marketing technology need urgently to improve the clothing brand? In fact, it is difficult for many fabric designers to answer, the fundamental reason is the salesman driven fabric sales mode.
Wu Huanming, director of design of Beijing Shang Shang design studio, for example, said that when contacted with the fabric designers in Italy, the other side was very beautiful in the preparation of color cards and templates, and even a designer made the fabric into a small aircraft, which was pleasing to the eye.
On the contrary, domestic fabric designers mostly put the color cards and cloth on the table, and the fabrics are also lack of systematicness.
So they chose to finish their fabrics in Europe and Japan and Korea before they finally looked at the domestic fabrics.
This involves the marketing tools, communication skills and deep understanding of brands of fabric suppliers and brand designers.
The marketing of domestic fabrics has become a common topic for all fashion designers.
"Almost all kinds of domestic fabrics are selected by thousands.
The problem is that salesmen are pushing instead of fabric designers.
Zhang Xiling, director of supply chain of Limited by Share Ltd, Shanghai daily fashion group, said, "how do fabric designers connect with brand designers? They can write articles on functionality, printing, dyeing, jacquard and yarn dyed fabrics, focusing on fabric characteristics."
Sui Lipei, general manager of Shanghai mod Garments Co., Ltd., who has been buying fabrics for foreign brands for more than 20 years, has put forward the concept of "buyer fabric designer".
She believes that fabric designers should fully understand the needs of customers and market, and grasp the main points of fashion trends.
Brand clothing almost all has their own tonality. Fabric providers should study their tonality and fashion trend, do their homework, and provide products with the trend and customer characteristics.
viewpoint
Wu Huanming: how to improve domestic fabrics
Italy fabric is a comprehensive and leading international men's wear trend. Its advantages are strong creativity and design, complete product series, multi variety, small quantity, flexibility, convenience for sample cloth matching, fast adjustment of color and pattern, emphasis on brand value, clear positioning, and emphasis on customer and market research.
The advantages of Japanese fabrics are less and more sophisticated, and the fabric is good and stable in wearability.
Its own characteristics are outstanding, which is close to the market trend and is very easy to use.
Good cooperation with domestic brands, customer resources integration.
The advantages of domestic fabrics are high cost performance, but there are still many aspects to be improved.
At present, fabric traders and brands have a higher degree of cooperation, but fabric producers lack cooperation. Lack of brand value and overall packaging can improve color, flower type innovation, finishing and speed.
Now the high volume of domestic fabrics is related to its operation mode.
Fabric design is prior to fashion design.
Domestic fabrics need a buyer's fabric designer.
Zhang Xiling: risk of developing popular fabrics
Popular fabrics are the focus of research and development in recent years, but there are often risks in developing cash.
First of all, it is to develop liquidity risk. After the audition is confirmed, whether the fabrics selected by the audition can be realized.
Physical and chemical risk: whether physical and chemical meets the needs of listing can be avoided.
Cloth quality risk: whether cloth quality is up to the listing requirement.
Why do many domestic fabrics be brushed down again when they enter mass production? First, fabric producers have too long production cycles to keep up with the pace of listing.
Brand providers demand faster supply chains, and are willing to share profits with suppliers. However, domestic fabrics suppliers have great demand for quantity.
But orders for foreign fabrics are relatively low, 500 meters can be ordered, but 500 meters in the country also need additional money.
Physical and chemical indicators can not reach the risk of clothing listing.
Secondly, when entering mass production, the fabric styles of domestic fabrics often differ greatly from their development.
Fabric manufacturers can pay attention to the brand's fashion trend, brand tonality, and whether the fabric is suitable for the brand. If the leisure fabric is not suitable for business,
The research direction of new fabrics is determined according to the needs of branding manufacturers.
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